Unexplainable Transmission Stutter... help?

-
Stock V8 drums hold 4 thicks at a minimum. Later hold five. Are you sure you don't have a 6 cyl (three plate) drum? Post a pic of the retaining ring groove in the direct drum.
 
We thought of that, my car had 4 thin plates in the front clutch to begin with so that is what we are reinstalling.

Here are pictures of it without clutch discs and plates, with 3 and with 4. Last picture is of the 4 discs that came out.

20200422_215210.jpg


20200422_215327.jpg


20200422_215349.jpg


20200422_215419.jpg
 
That's a slant six drum. Get a V8 drum and put five thin red eagles in it. You can use a forward clutch lower pressure plate to squeeze more room in that /6 drum. But never use oem thins in the direct.
 
I'm confused by the instructions. How do you set it to coffee spiller mode?

You set everything at the high end of what the instructions say.
Like drilling the holes in the plate to the largest of the options, and blocking the accumulator from moving.

I had a guy keep making me take his car back and increase the "options" and he wasn't happy till the second gear shift made his glove box door pop open.
 
You set everything at the high end of what the instructions say.
Like drilling the holes in the plate to the largest of the options, and blocking the accumulator from moving.

I had a guy keep making me take his car back and increase the "options" and he wasn't happy till the second gear shift made his glove box door pop open.

Ok so just drill the separator plate holes to 3/16.

On this page step 4 for drilling with the spacer you're supposed to go through the wall where the mark is correct?

Then I've noticed on step 3 it says to drill through the barrier wall here with the 1/8th drill. Is it supposed to be a notch or taken completely out? Because my VB doesn't have the wall at all.

Lastly my spring pocket already has a hole, is it supposed to get another one?

So many questions! All the time :p

20200424_140806.jpg


20200424_141136.jpg


20200424_141140.jpg


20200424_141304.jpg


20200424_141254.jpg
 
Oh also the transmission is just a couple hours of work to be fully completed. We installed 4 thin discs in the front clutch. Our clearance was pretty tight and a little under the tf book specs. We called a Chrysler mechanic and we were told we would be "a ok" just that going from park to drive it would engage into gear quicker and would not cause any transmission problems

20200423_192850.jpg
 
Don't put thin oems in the direct clutch. Unless you love r&r'ing that trans. Get a V8 drum and do it right. Your Chrysler "mechanic" seems to think that the direct clutch is engaged when placed in "D". Fraid not. And follow the clearance guidelines. Idk what "pretty tight" or "a little under" actually means; except that you are taking a lot of chances. Don't drill another hole in the spring pocket. Looks like somebody did the step #3 their own way. This valve body already had a TranGo kit; I just don't know what level; probably just RV/heavy duty. Step #4; ya just drill down to the bottom of the wall.
 
Ok so just drill the separator plate holes to 3/16.

On this page step 4 for drilling with the spacer you're supposed to go through the wall where the mark is correct?

Then I've noticed on step 3 it says to drill through the barrier wall here with the 1/8th drill. Is it supposed to be a notch or taken completely out? Because my VB doesn't have the wall at all.

Lastly my spring pocket already has a hole, is it supposed to get another one?

So many questions! All the time :p

I don't have the directions, you do.:D
FIRST let me say that since the 3/8 ball and spring pocket already has a hole drilled, that VB has already been modified/or kitted.

The holes in the separator plate have probably already been drilled also.
Look at what the instructions say for each hole and it's size options and compare that to the holes that are there already.
Then see if you need to drill them.

On drilling the wall, that means one of the walls between fluid channels like where the red dot is in this pic.
Drilling that wall is the highest firmness option and will make some really hard shifts if I remember correctly, but make damn sure you want that and that that's where you are supposed to drill.
If a wall is to be drilled there is usally a metal plate in the kit with three holes in it.
The two end holes are where you screw the plate down on the valve body, and the third hole is the drill guide.
Then you drill straight down through the wall creating a gap in the wall.

Did your kit come with that flat plate?

VBwall.jpg
 
I don't have the directions, you do.:D
FIRST let me say that since the 3/8 ball and spring pocket already has a hole drilled, that VB has already been modified/or kitted.

The holes in the separator plate have probably already been drilled also.
Look at what the instructions say for each hole and it's size options and compare that to the holes that are there already.
Then see if you need to drill them.

On drilling the wall, that means one of the walls between fluid channels like where the red dot is in this pic.
Drilling that wall is the highest firmness option and will make some really hard shifts if I remember correctly, but make damn sure you want that and that that's where you are supposed to drill.
If a wall is to be drilled there is usally a metal plate in the kit with three holes in it.
The two end holes are where you screw the plate down on the valve body, and the third hole is the drill guide.
Then you drill straight down through the wall creating a gap in the wall.

Did your kit come with that flat plate?

View attachment 1715515665

Yea I have the directions. You just seemed to know how to do it all so I was double checking lol.

I noticed my VB has been modified but I've been trying to make sure I follow the directions and only add from the directions what hasn't been done already. The holes drilled into my plate currently are the middle size drill not the largest one.
 
When you say really hard shifts will that let me chirp my tires in 2nd? :poke::D As it is now though, I have a VB that has been modified so I may as well step it up a size and see how we like it right
 
@TrailBeast couple of quick questions regarding the tf2 kit again.

Per the instructions it says to drill this hole on 6 or 7 passage type VB w/ lockup converter.. This is a 6 passage vb but no lockup converter is in the car, do I drill it?

Then in my last vb the hole was already drilled where the bypass ball and spring was so I didn't drill one. But if drilling one does the hole go towards the top of the casting (1 dot) or more towards the bottom (2 dots)?

Thanks for the help!

20200511_235413.jpg


20200511_235434.jpg


20200511_235330.jpg


20200511_235615.jpg
 
Slightly confused by the spring and pocket as I keep going on the directions. It says if you don't have hole "L" in your plate nothing goes here. Then right beneath it the directions state if VB HAS ball and spring to drill hole and install ball and spring.

My vb has no hole @ L but also had a ball and spring in that spring pocket... so idk what to actually do there...

And yes this transmission is pissing me the heck off. Rebuilt and shifts like a turd. Have adjusted and adjusted and adjusted... I'm currently doing new vb to install and new throttle cable to have correct kickdown/throttle cable set up w/ 1 to 1 pull ratio to try to get things normal... or somewhat normal.

20200512_010710.jpg


20200512_010645.jpg


20200428_131000.jpg
 
@TrailBeast couple of quick questions regarding the tf2 kit again.

Per the instructions it says to drill this hole on 6 or 7 passage type VB w/ lockup converter.. This is a 6 passage vb but no lockup converter is in the car, do I drill it?

Then in my last vb the hole was already drilled where the bypass ball and spring was so I didn't drill one. But if drilling one does the hole go towards the top of the casting (1 dot) or more towards the bottom (2 dots)?

Thanks for the help!

View attachment 1715526538

View attachment 1715526539

View attachment 1715526540

View attachment 1715526541

My understanding is you drill the spring pocket and not the lockup passage.
Best to stay down toward the bottom of the pocket for the spring and ball.

Slightly confused by the spring and pocket as I keep going on the directions. It says if you don't have hole "L" in your plate nothing goes here. Then right beneath it the directions state if VB HAS ball and spring to drill hole and install ball and spring.

My vb has no hole @ L but also had a ball and spring in that spring pocket... so idk what to actually do there...

And yes this transmission is pissing me the heck off. Rebuilt and shifts like a turd. Have adjusted and adjusted and adjusted... I'm currently doing new vb to install and new throttle cable to have correct kickdown/throttle cable set up w/ 1 to 1 pull ratio to try to get things normal... or somewhat normal.

View attachment 1715526543

View attachment 1715526544

View attachment 1715526545

This one I'm not sure on.
Been decades you know.:D

If I remember, the reason for drilling the L hole is to let fluid that gets by sealing rings and such escape instead of building pressure in that cavity behind the ball.
Like I said, not sure though.
 
OH, and one thing I wanted to mention is that you need to have that trans fully warmed up to see how it's going to not only shift, but when it's going to shift.
Cold, or not all the way warmed up fluid makes them shift earlier and softer.
About 10 minutes of driving should get it warmed up enough to see how it will normally act.
 
Why is the separator plate in #134 different than the one in #144?

Different VB. I've driven my car and adjusted and adjusted and have not been able to get the shifts perfect. 1st is also super soft, like you're driving a brand new vw Jetta.
 
OH, and one thing I wanted to mention is that you need to have that trans fully warmed up to see how it's going to not only shift, but when it's going to shift.
Cold, or not all the way warmed up fluid makes them shift earlier and softer.
About 10 minutes of driving should get it warmed up enough to see how it will normally act.


I drove my car around 40 minutes one day adjusting and adjusting then 30 minutes another day adjusting and adjusting.

So on those questions I asked you, I called transgo.

1. If no lockup converter don't drill.
2. If no hole L in VB no need for spring/ball and no need for drilling hole in passage. He said someone must have made a mistake and put a ball and spring in there at some time.
 
-
Back
Top