CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
But 40 and 30 is only 70..and everybody knows you have to adjust those for 75 minutes minimum.
Unexplainable Transmission Stutter... help?
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Musta been the same joker who put a /6 direct drum in there and drilled that hole; better stick a rivet in there.
Thats a good one! Really I am banging my head over here. Those are just the big drives I've done tons of short 10 minute drives up and down the street.
Hopefully the new vb and new throttle cable solve the problem... if not then I'll be back to square 1.
Different VB. This one was in my 727 transmission. I'm praying it all works. I changed the arm out to the arm that slides in the 904 trans so I'm crossing my fingers.
Good luck 2 ya. Kim
Is it working now? Kim
Yes it is! Rebuilt transmission, vb from 727 with part throttle kickdown and tf2 kit. Shifts 1-2 and 2-3 at around 2k with normal driving. 1-2 shift is really quick and super soft but 2-3 shift is what I would call the coffee spiller shift. WOT shifts about 4-4500k for both 1-2 and 2-3 shift. I also installed a new lokar throttle cable, which has made me have to tinker with the kickdown again. I have to do the kickdown cable a little backed off of what the directions say because if its to tight it doesn't like to shift with normal driving throttle
Thanks for all of the help.
Ur welcome U did put the blocker rod in the accumulator right? Is this vb still stock? Kim
Then u may need the restrictor for the high clutch. Ur shift will be hard/ binding up possibly without the restrictor. Did u leave the 1 ball out? Kim
@oldkimmer The restrictor? Yes I drilled the wall and left the ball out.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Do you need a return spring on the kd arm?
The cupped plug that goes into the case. What do u have the bands set at. Kim
I thought you're not supposed to not put a return spring on the transmission? I have return springs up top on the carb though
I would think it would be necessary, as a cable wont push, it just pulls. Originally that transmission had solid rods for linkage, hence the return springs at carb.no returning force on lever would cause inconsistent shifts and pressures.
Backed off 4 turns for the rear and 2 turns for the front band.
The orifice plug? It says for 727 only on the directions.
I believe I left this ball in because I didn't think a 2500 stall rebuilt stock TC was a high stall converter. It may need to come out for it to be more firm of a 1-2 shift but I don't want to drop the pan again.
I see said the grasshopper. Well I have some extra springs that I bought for my carb, or is there a specific spring to get?
I have never ever put a return spring on the tranny kd lever. It does say 727 only, but now u have a 727 vb in it. But if u don’t have bind up u will be good. Kim
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I too have never had to put a return spring on the KD lever, even when using a cable. The throttle valve has a internal spring that should do the job. By your description of the shift timing I doubt you need one.
Does it still shift soft into 2nd gear? What ratio front band apply lever did you use? If it's a stock 2.9 lever upgrading it to a 4.2 should improve the 1-2 shift quite a bit
Does it still shift soft into 2nd gear? What ratio front band apply lever did you use? If it's a stock 2.9 lever upgrading it to a 4.2 should improve the 1-2 shift quite a bit
I haven't driven it in a couple days... I've been making brake lines... which sucks by the way. But the transmission has a 5.0 lever.
What do u have the bands set at?
4 turns out for the rear and 2 for the front I believe is what we set them at.
Does it shift the same shifting it manually or letting it shift automatically?
Haven't done much manual shifting in it as I was trying to get the cables set properly first. I'll mess ill take it for a spin on Thursday after I'm done with the brake lines.
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