unhappy with eddy need a change lol

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rigrunner

rigrunner

rigrunner
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my 600 eddy performer just isnt much of a performer. thinking of a totally different brand. would like to try holley or possibly the summit street strip. this is my cam specs. everything else pretty much stock fresh valve job and a factory 4bbl intake
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 284/284
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 218/218
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .458/.458
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 1500-5000
what what get the most out of this?:wav:
 
sorry stock 4bbl intake, stock manifolds 2.5 inch dual exh with cherry bomb xtremes. 2.9? gear 904 with transgo shift kit. factory electronic ignition no smog.
 
Your carburetor should work better with a performer intake, headers and a 3.55 gear ratio.
All these components are designed to work together as a total package.
 
just my 2 cents, what size is your motor?? i am thinking 318?? I would get headers, performer manifold and rebuild the 600, I had a eddy 625cfm on my 360 for 25 years, I liked it ( I have the 650 Thunder Series AVS now) and some people have said the summit carbs are not too good, don't know but thats what i read on here.
3.55's would be good too, but then your adding $$$
 
My eddy 600 works great. 273 HP motor with a stock 4brl intake, .468 solid cam, 4spd 323. It's all about your combo. Nothing wrong with the carb
 
412 Stroker said:
just my 2 cents, what size is your motor?? i am thinking 318?? I would get headers, performer manifold and rebuild the 600, I had a eddy 625cfm on my 360 for 25 years, I liked it ( I have the 650 Thunder Series AVS now) and some people have said the summit carbs are not too good, don't know but thats what i read on here.
3.55's would be good too, but then your adding $$$
Click to expand...

How do you like the thunder avs, I have one getting ready to go on a mild 360 and was wondering if they were better than the performer
 
Yall are all pissin in a fan without knowin what size motor dude has.
 
318 thought i listed that. need to learn to reread lol the carb has been gone throught but it has a surge at low speeds and it smells quite strong and gas mileage is terrible. not to mention the hard starting when hot that seems to be a common prob. also want an electric choke. since i dont have alot in the carb i was thinking of replacing it while i have the funds to do so.
 
I would try and diagnose what's there. Make SURE it is a carburetor problem. If it is, try and repair it. Those carburetors are VERY easy to build. If you go through this hobby throwing money at everything and simply replacing it, you won't learn very much. If you fix it yourself, you will have taught yourself how to fish. Learning is irreplaceable.

..and I did go back and "reread" like you said. Nowhere before your last post did you mention engine size.
 
totally missed the engine size. the car had the 2bbl originally. ran pretty good but leaked gas had some screws stripped so i picked up a good deal on and intake and used carb. the biggest issue with the eddy i have is the hard to start. it can sit weeks and fires right up but get her hot and let it sit half an hour and it acts like its flooded. reset the floats when i first put it on good cleaning everything in it looks great. this is my daily driver and just dont have alot time to rebuild the carb. i drive a truck and am lucky to have a day at home a week.
 
Understood. Then I wouldn't recommend a thermoquad, either. There's a learning curve there and it's possible you may not have time for that right now. If it was "me" being in your position, I would run this out of the box:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-03-0238/
 
You have the right carb (Ede 600) for your stock 318 Dart.
Either rebuild it,or get a new one. You will not find a easier more forgiving carb.
Put a Edelbrock heat insulator under the carb,and your "hot" issues will be solved.
 
May need to tune it to your motor. Not hard at all to change jets and rods in that style of carb. Knowing what to change to is the hard part. LOL Like Jonny said a phenolic carb spacer will help with the heat soke. Had the same thing with my 650 thunder carb on my 340. Spacer helped a lot.
 
thanks guys. ive been back on the rd for a little over a year this time and hate not having time to do things. i bought a new 600 performer and after REsetting the floats it runs great. no surging or strong exhaust. the best part was the mopar fanitic parts guy trying to tell me the carb was totally wrong because my stock intake wouldnt adapt and if i didnt run a 4 hole spacer it couldnt be adjusted. mr i have 7 mopars all performance upgraded personally looked at me like a deer in headlights when i asked about the chrystler throttle?kickdown adapter cause dont all trannys have vacuum lol
 
last thing. how can i adjust my throttle rod to get wot. if i adjust it all the way back at wot is shifts way to early and when i get the shift points where they need to be the throttle doesnt open all the way. only been adjusting the threaded rod at the carb never at the trans. amazing diff when it does open up all the way but afraid the early shifts will fry the tranny thanks again.
 
StrokerScamp said:
I would try and diagnose what's there. Make SURE it is a carburetor problem. If it is, try and repair it. Those carburetors are VERY easy to build. If you go through this hobby throwing money at everything and simply replacing it, you won't learn very much. If you fix it yourself, you will have taught yourself how to fish. Learning is irreplaceable.

..and I did go back and "reread" like you said. Nowhere before your last post did you mention engine size.
Click to expand...


sorry i meant REread for ME. i tend to get in a hurry and miss things. no offense meant.
 
I would leave the carb and work out the rest of the car, exhaust maybe a LD4B intake. Ive run the eddy 600s before and really like them for the street. Pick up a tuning kit for it too,
 
now with the new carb things are great. just never was able to get full throttle without my shift points being way to early when just driving. 3/4 throttle isnt quite enuff
 
rigrunner said:
now with the new carb things are great. just never was able to get full throttle without my shift points being way to early when just driving. 3/4 throttle isnt quite enuff
Click to expand...

First get a manual,and make sure your band adjustments are correct in your trans.Its pretty straight forward,or you can have a trans shop do it for you.

For kick-down rod adjustmant: Disconect the kickdown rod at the top of the linkage.
Have someone floor the pedal,while you adjust the throttle cable for wot.
Get this portion correct first.
Now adjust the kick down rod so it reconnects at this height.

Now test drive.
You can now fine tune from here.
Shortening the rod will give you less response on upshifts, lengthening the rod will give you quicker upshifts when you stomp on it.
My feelings are you will be lenghening the rod.This will be trial and error.
Just got to find the sweet spot.
 
how early is dangerous for a trans to shift? i have a transgo shift kit not sure witch one nothing to hi-po but it shifts nice and firm like at 10-20 then 30mph with easy driving but any lower and 3rd is pretty spongy. if i shorten it to get wot will lower shift point hurt the trans. its a 904 rebuilt around 11000 miles ago. thanks
 
"kick down" is actually throttle pressure lever, and by adjusting its length, will adjust shift not just at wot.. imho..

and JonnyDart hit nail on head with base insulator.. boiling gas after shut off, "floods" carb..
 
got a phenolic base plate spacer. i notice the fuel pressure comes up about 4 psi after shutting car off. its running about 6psi at idle thinking i need a regulator? thanks
 
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