Universal Traction Bars install on a Duster....

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i thought they counter acted the design of the mopar suspension?
 
i thought they counter acted the design of the mopar suspension?
I have ALWAYS gained traction using traction bars. I always say it's about like adding 200 lbs to the trunk, except without the weight.

When that back end raises up almost 2 inches, that's the same pressure being applied to the tires. It also helps "open differentials" spin both tires on a even surface.
 
cool

i was always told they didnt work because of the pinion snubber

but then again, i dont see how you can drive a truck without a key in the ignition

:poke:
 
I used to run the MAS version, and they took the place of your shock mount. They sold for a whopping 29 bucks. They worked better, using 100% of the axle twist to plant the tires.

Kind of like these, but 29 bucks.

traction bars.jpg
 
when you launch a car off starting line, the force of pinion climbing the ring gear lifts the RR and plants the LR and a centered pinion snubber does nothing to stop this! traction bars do, they equal out this effect and if set up right plant both tires more equally!
 
With all respect, 318willrun, all I know is that back in the 70's and 80's, when we all learned hot rodding from magazines and going to the track, it was common knowledge that Mopars didn't use traction bars. Direct Connection bulletins said to use an adjustable pinion snubber and clamp the leaves in front of the axle.
Mopar's axles aren't mounted in the center of the spring, of course, they are closer to the front spring eye. This helps eliminate the springs tendency to wrap into an "s" shape.
The 70 Challenger R/T, with L60's and stock suspension, that I owned about 1980 would try to hook the tire going forward. In reverse, it would wheel hop like crazy, kind of proving that the suspension worked as designed.
Thousands of Mopar race cars out there, very few with slapper bars. Bill Jenkins has been credited with their design for his Chevy's. Their axles are centered on the springs, allowing them to wrap up and hop.
 
With all respect, 318willrun, all I know is that back in the 70's and 80's, when we all learned hot rodding from magazines and going to the track, it was common knowledge that Mopars didn't use traction bars. Direct Connection bulletins said to use an adjustable pinion snubber and clamp the leaves in front of the axle.
Mopar's axles aren't mounted in the center of the spring, of course, they are closer to the front spring eye. This helps eliminate the springs tendency to wrap into an "s" shape.
The 70 Challenger R/T, with L60's and stock suspension, that I owned about 1980 would try to hook the tire going forward. In reverse, it would wheel hop like crazy, kind of proving that the suspension worked as designed.
Thousands of Mopar race cars out there, very few with slapper bars. Bill Jenkins has been credited with their design for his Chevy's. Their axles are centered on the springs, allowing them to wrap up and hop.
thanks. It is from this simple design we got not-so-simple caltracs, and others. I will tell you, I've run the adjustable pinion snubber. Keep in mind, they are all using the axle twist for the advantage of traction. I've not seen any advantage using a snubber over slapper bars when slapper bars are set up correctly. Post 6 speaks of an advantage the slapper bars have over the pinion snubber.
 
when you launch a car off starting line, the force of pinion climbing the ring gear lifts the RR and plants the LR and a centered pinion snubber does nothing to stop this! traction bars do, they equal out this effect and if set up right plant both tires more equally!
You found this out too, huh?? LOL. I will tell you, traction bars set properly will make an open rear end act like a sure grip on a flat road. My Duster always spins two tires on a flat road. A pinion snubber has never given that effect, because of what you accurately described in your post.
 
However, this was about how to install the cheap universal traction bars on a Duster, not a debate on which or what is better. :) But carry on, interesting
 
my first a body had the snubber and traction bars! they were adjusted where thay would all 3 make contact at the same time! where the snubber makes contact had been repaired and reinforced from years of drag strip/833 abuse! ol car hooked good nuff to get bottom of steer tires a foot up and hold for 2 car lengths! took bars off one weekend and the car would roll and rear end would go right or left but not dead hook straight, i put them back on just way they were and let it be! still miss that ol duster!
 
i thought they counter acted the design of the mopar suspension?

No. They simply work on both sides instead of in the center like a pinion snubber. There are some advantages over a snubber, since traction bars can be adjusted individually.

Plus they look cool.
 
No. They simply work on both sides instead of in the center like a pinion snubber. There are some advantages over a snubber, since traction bars can be adjusted individually.

Plus they look cool.
Right. it's really no harder than RRR simple explanation.
 
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The traction bar pushes the inertia of the counter rotating axle housing toward the front of the spring where the rubber bump stops are, which in turn magnifies the downward momentum at the axle shackle. The moment or energy is cyclic, the more the axle tries to rotate the more the traction bar pushes down.
 
Custom slappers (like the Lakewoods), and a line-loc, were the only part on my 340car in 71 that wasn't stock, and she did pretty good with those and the OEM E70-14s. In 72, she got 4.10s and in hi-school was the car to beat. I used to put the line-loc on at red-lites and slip the clutch in and out, to freak out the folks in the next lanes as the back end went up and down, and the U-joints (I guess) made strange creaking sounds. Yeah we had fun.
 
However, this was about how to install the cheap universal traction bars on a Duster, not a debate on which or what is better. :) But carry on, interesting
I hear ya. However, regarding what I said about what was what in the 70's-80's; Chrysler engineers said to use the methods I mentioned above. To me, I'd rather use what a Chrysler engineer said, as opposed to using a Chevy (and other GM's, and Fords, and American Motors, etc...) type traction bar. To me then and now, the simplicity of the Chrysler design was and is (at age 59) the ticket.
I should say however, the Lakewood bar that Grumpy designed, with J-bar and deceleration loop, worked and definitely looked cool; albeit it on a car that needed it. (But they rode like dookey on the street. The suspension was bound up.)
 
I hear ya. However, regarding what I said about what was what in the 70's-80's; Chrysler engineers said to use the methods I mentioned above. To me, I'd rather use what a Chrysler engineer said, as opposed to using a Chevy (and other GM's, and Fords, and American Motors, etc...) type traction bar. To me then and now, the simplicity of the Chrysler design was and is (at age 59) the ticket.
I should say however, the Lakewood bar that Grumpy designed, with J-bar and deceleration loop, worked and definitely looked cool; albeit it on a car that needed it. (But they rode like dookey on the street. The suspension was bound up.)

But that's not his purpose. His purpose is recreating a certain period look. He doesn't give a fig about what somebody else thinks is right.
 
I hear ya. However, regarding what I said about what was what in the 70's-80's; Chrysler engineers said to use the methods I mentioned above. To me, I'd rather use what a Chrysler engineer said, as opposed to using a Chevy (and other GM's, and Fords, and American Motors, etc...) type traction bar. To me then and now, the simplicity of the Chrysler design was and is (at age 59) the ticket.
I should say however, the Lakewood bar that Grumpy designed, with J-bar and deceleration loop, worked and definitely looked cool; albeit it on a car that needed it. (But they rode like dookey on the street. The suspension was bound up.)
well, brake out ya welder an reinforce floor where pinion snubber hits before it pokes a hole there! when it goes left and right instead of straight, just back out of it till its controllable!
 
A snubber is a crutch, plain and simple.

Great for a door stop to let a breeze in the shop!
 
Traction bars are for ego. If you buy them because you think you need them you have other problems. Like maybe your springs are weak or you need a place to hang your glow lights.

My Duster had no problem going 10's and lifting the wheels with the stock suspension and 4 yr old tires. This car had all its interior and the factory spare in the trunk. It also had a full exhaust and a stereo with a amp for something to listen to in the staging lanes and on the return lane.

Traction bars are for looking cool. My Duster Had an adjustable snubber. The floor brace is still perfect I use a lower control arm rubber stop on the snubber

Don't guess on your torsion bar adjustment. Do it with the rear tires off the ground and measure them using the proper method as per the manual. By the difference in the LCA pin and the ball joint make them the same. Check the front weights on the tri pod system with the rear axle on a jack in the center of the housing.

When dropping the car I may lean due to the different strength springs on the rear if they are factory performance or SS. springs. Because we are going to cut over 800 lbs. we are going with the new Calvert wheelie bar traction system. We already tried caltracs springs and bars. They did help control rear of the car moving around on the shift.

Bottom line is traction bars are not needed on a mopar unless you need a place to hang lights. Or if you think they look cool and always wanted a set for that reason.

Buy a Direct connection chassis manual.

This is all factory tweeked suspension. You can hear it is through the mufflers and the tips reflection can be seen in the bumper

 
Traction bars are for ego. If you buy them because you think you need them you have other problems. Like maybe your springs are weak or you need a place to hang your glow lights.

My Duster had no problem going 10's and lifting the wheels with the stock suspension and 4 yr old tires. This car had all its interior and the factory spare in the trunk. It also had a full exhaust and a stereo with a amp for something to listen to in the staging lanes and on the return lane.

Traction bars are for looking cool. My Duster Had an adjustable snubber. The floor brace is still perfect I use a lower control arm rubber stop on the snubber

Don't guess on your torsion bar adjustment. Do it with the rear tires off the ground and measure them using the proper method as per the manual. By the difference in the LCA pin and the ball joint make them the same. Check the front weights on the tri pod system with the rear axle on a jack in the center of the housing.

When dropping the car I may lean due to the different strength springs on the rear if they are factory performance or SS. springs. Because we are going to cut over 800 lbs. we are going with the new Calvert wheelie bar traction system. We already tried caltracs springs and bars. They did help control rear of the car moving around on the shift.

Bottom line is traction bars are not needed on a mopar unless you need a place to hang lights. Or if you think they look cool and always wanted a set for that reason.

Buy a Direct connection chassis manual.

This is all factory tweeked suspension. You can hear it is through the mufflers and the tips reflection can be seen in the bumper


if you have enough of the right tire on a well prepped track, that is your traction bar...…… just say'n.
 
But yall are completely missing his point. He doesn't care what's correct by operation. He's going for a certain look. I agree with what's been said. Snubbers and traction bars are useless add-ons as long as everything else is in good order. But again, he's after a period correct look. I wonder how many Mopar gurus back in the day ran traction bars who knew no better then?
 
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