The F/M/J spindle you've got has a larger diameter taper for the upper ball joint, so you either need control arms that use the larger ball joint, or a set of tapered sleeves to make up the difference.
Dr. Diff sells the tapered sleeves
http://www.doctordiff.com/a-body-upper-ball-joint-tapered-adapter.html. These allow you to keep your stock upper control arms, no need for the later 73+ factory UCA's or tubular UCA's. I would suggest that you also get a set of Moog 7103 offset UCA bushings though, so you can set your car up with a proper alignment using specs for radial tires- ie, something like -.5* camber, +3 caster (or more) and 1/16" toe in. The factory specs are for bias plys, and are horrible for radial tires.
If you don't like the idea of the tapered sleeves you either need the 73+ factory A body UCA's or a set of tubular UCA's designed for the 73+ cars with the larger upper ball joint. With the factory arms I would again recommend the offset bushings. Tubular arms are nice, they have the geometry correction provided by the offset bushings built into the arms in most cases, and most also give more clearance for things like really wide front rims/tires. I would stay away from tubular UCA's that use heim joints if you're planning on mostly street use, the heims just don't last as long on the street. But Firm Feel, PST, Bergman Auto Craft, etc all make tubular control arms that will do the part. Firm Feel's and PST's arms are "non-adjustable", meaning the geometry is fixed and the alignment is done with the camber bolts just like stock. With the built in geometry correction that should work just fine for pretty much everybody. Peter Bergman (a member here as well, GMachineDartGT) sells adjustable SPC arms that are bushed and double adjustable. They're awesome, but overkill for most folks that just drive on the street.
