Valiant Drag Car ?'s

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Slugger8985

Slugger8985

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I'm trying to put together a plan for a 66 or 67 Valiant drag car. I'm trying to decide on what engine displacement I should go with. I would like to run Super Gas (money allowing), but would settle for something slower. Whatever the class, I would like to run in the low 10s to mid 9s. Should I stick with a sb that I can wind higher or should I go with a bb with more torque and hp?
 
Stroke a small block :cheers:
I hope a Tec can jump in here and back me up :-D
 
It would probably easier and cheaper to find a good 360 to stroke since you are trying keep a budget. They will cost the same to stroke just the initial cost of a 340 verses a 360 will be quite a bit larger.
 
I have no engineering data to back me up BUT, look in any catalog you wanna look at and there's more Big Block parts to choose from. Then take a look at a 66 Valiant and decide how much you wanna fight a Big motor in a little car or how lightweight you can make the car and your wallet, to make a Small motor 700 HP strong.
 
Big difference in room between a 66 and a 67. I'm doing a simular build with a 68 Dart. I'm going to use a 400 Low Deck and a 4.15 cranks,6.76 rods and will end up with 500 cu. in. Go big you can't go wrong.
 
Good point with the BB stroker. The only way I wouldn't do it would be engine compartment room or limited budget and stroker would be out no matter what block you use.

If engine compartment is limited, go S/B and a 360 cube engine w/W-2 heads fully ported and a roller cam, single plane intake and the biggest tube headers you can afford to squeeze in there.
 
Slugger, I only have 64-66 "A" bodies, but if you really want to go 10's, use the later (67 up) body. It has so much more room in the engine compartment, and there are more parts readily available.
 
Of course if we are talking a chassis car it won't matter how much room is in the engine compatment. If you build a 4 link rear and strut front end you'll have plenty of room for the big block and fat meats too.

I think a stroker big block is the route to go. You could easily build a milder pump gas friendly 500 cube big block for cheaper than you could a 400 cube 13:1 race gas only small block. It would be cheaper to operate too in the long run. You won't have to twist it hard so it would be less maintenance and consume less parts.
 
If you can find a good 340, Callies makes a 4.25" arm which would net 444" or so depending on your finish bore. In a .030" over 360 it would be around 433".

Or if you're one of those hi-roller types get a 48º block with a set of W9s and blow doors.
 
Cubic inches are where it's at. Cheaper, more reliable power, and while a small-block can put up good HP numbers, you'd spend a mint on one to get big-block torque.
 
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