valve seals??

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1BadDodge71

1BadDodge71

FABO Rice Hater
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Hi everyone,
well,I recently got my 72 Duster running and got the carb working real good(starts right up,sometimes without a pump) now since the car has been sitting for who knows how long,there is a blue smoke (a very stinky old oil gassy blue smoke) but only at acceleration.It never smokes at idle,only after I snap open the throttle,it puffs it out,but quits at deceleration.Now is this a valve stem seal problem?Ring problem?If the cause is the valve seals,is there a way to change them without removing the head?I was told about a way to do it with compressed air into the cylinders to hold the valves up to keep them from falling into the cylinder.I plan on rebuilding the motor soon,but money and lack of a garage to do it in(winters coming,which means no more working outside)means I wont be able to do it until next summer.Also what are a good brand of valve seals(if thats what my problem is)I dont want to get cheapo ones that will fail in a short time.thanks!
P.S. I have changed the oil,but still makes that old stinky smell of a car that has sat for ages=\
 
You can use the rope trick to keep the valves up in place while you replace the seals.
Make note of you firing order.
remove all the spark plugs
use a 3/8 SOFT nylon rope about 6 feet long
feed it into a cyclinder that is half way up on the compression stroke (both valves closed). DO NOT USE THE STARTER rotate the engine by hand. You will feel the rope compress against the valves and hold the vales up. (I lock the engine in place using a pair of vice grips on a pulley to insure that the engine doesnt move) Replace both of your seals for that cyc. Remove the vice grips and back the engine up. Pull the rope out and go to the next cyc.
Frank
 
Do a compression check first, see how different they are. If there's oil in the cylinders it will bump the compression. And if it is smoking due to guides, just replacing seals is only a temporary fix, more than likely will need the head taken off and either new guides installed or guide liners. I've put several motors with no valve seals at all and good guides, and they don't smoke nearly as much as a motor with valve seals and bad guides.

But first do a compression check.
 
Ok,a little update for you all.
I did a compression check on all cylinders(with all plugs removed,open throttle with engine at normal operating temperature)Here are the results

cylinder 1-110 psi

2-110 psi

3-110 psi

4-120 psi(!)
5-110 psi
6-110

Ok,about cylinder 4,When I pulled the plug out of it,smoke came out and it was saturated with oil.Im guessing(you can correct me) that a leak in the valve stem seal or valve guide is seeping into cylinder 4 which explains the high compression reading(since the oil from the leak is sealing the ring)
All of the other plugs are not oil fouled,only #4.So what says you guys?I know the compression readings are pretty low,what are the readings for a normal /6,I cant find any documentation anywhere.Could I get away with installing new valve stem seals and guids,or should I just do a complete overhaul.Right now ,my budget restrains me from a complete overhaul and rebuild.Other than the smoke problem and the leak,the car runs great and purrs like a kitten.Starts right up with just a pump of the throttle.
Im open to advice.=)
 
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