For sale is this very stock and original 1974 Plymouth Gold Duster with 63,500 original miles. Numbers matching 225 slant six motor with correct Holley 1945 carb that runs very well. Numbers matching Torqueflite auto transmission has been completely rebuilt and operates perfectly. Power steering, manual brakes. Brake system completely renewed with too many new components to list here. Both brake rotors should be turned to eliminate some brake shuddering during hard stops. AM radio, light package, new radiator, hoses, heater core and completely rebuilt heater system - works perfectly. Original paint and snakeskin vinyl roof above beltline. Repainted below, with patch panels in the quarters. Some underbody rust and rust bubbles in lower body. Good rubber on correct original powder coated wheels. All electrics work perfectly except for the map light which needs a new switch. This is a very nice original Duster, but not a perfect show poodle. Great driver, road ready and you can drive it home. Comes with the original broadcast sheet, a repro window sticker, all maintenance receipts since I've owned it, a very complete owners manual package for the glove compartment, and an original two volume factory maintenance manual set. VERY easy (and satisfying) to work on. Just bought another Duster so this one must go for $8950.00. Thanks for looking, and view my YouTube video (1974 Plymouth Gold Duster survivor now being offered for sale) for a full walk around video of the car, including the running engine.
Sure, I'd be glad to. Here are photos of what I consider the worst rust on the car. First, as you can see, the car was Ziebart rustoofed back in the day. This is why it survived. Still, it has accumulated some rust after 47 years. There is surface rust on the underside, and there is one rust through area about the size of a silver dollar on the rear bumper reinforcement. I've included a photo of this. There is also rust bubbling in the lower parts of the body - see the rust bubbles at the rocker panel and lower quarters. To me, the worst rust is on the left front subframe, which had brake fluid leaked on it over the years. I've corrected this leak with a new master cylinder. The bottom surface of this subframe is corroded and somewhat detached from the sides of the subframe, but I do not think this affects the structural strength of either the car or the subframe. If a guy really wanted to get into it, he could replace this subframe and put in new quarters. I personally wouldn't do it, though. You might as well do a rotisserie resto if you're going that far, and this car really isn't being advertised as that kind of project. It's just a really nice driver which you wouldn't want to drive in the rain, snow and salt. There are some rust pinholes in the driver's foot well, which I've treated with Neutra - Rust and that seems fine. But yeah, if you wanted to you could replace the driver's floor pan, but I wouldn't. Since I bought the car in early 2016, I've noticed no noticeable progression of the rust - probably since it's always garaged and never sees snow or rain. This is a car to drive and enjoy, not spend forever in your garage welding. I take it our on beautiful days and remember how much I loved my first car (a 1974 Tahitian Gold Duster) back in college, and how cool it was to finally have a set of wheels after having nothing but a bicycle to get around with until I was 20. If this sounds appealing to you, then all the better. No questions are off limits, and like you I ask a lot of them, especially if rust is involved. But I've got one too many Dusters now, and this one has to go. I'd really love to see it go to someone who appreciates it and knows what he has. Please keep asking questions and I'll reply as soon as I can. Thanks - BOB
