vortech on an 69 a-body with 360 magnum

-
I must admit the base of my knowledge in regards to inlines is limited and gathered mostly from what I've learned here in the past few days.

Would like to hear about your combination, what turbo are going with?
 
I must admit the base of my knowledge in regards to inlines is limited and gathered mostly from what I've learned here in the past few days.

Would like to hear about your combination, what turbo are going with?
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

REVISED, with $$$$$$$$$$

My experience with inline engines, also, is also very limited, but when I saw how fast and quick Ryan and Tom had run with their turbos, and how cheaply they had done it, (not that it was "cheap" for sure,) I became an "instant fan."

So, I began trying to sort of, educate myself (last year) about what it took to go that fast, and quickly learned the best course of action for me and my racing partner, Freddie Nielsen, would be to build a "copy cat" motor that while not identical to Ryan's and Tom's, was pretty close to an identical engine.

Our engine differs, in detail, to both of their engines, but basically, it's pretty much a copy, of the mechanical infrastructure of both of theirs.

If it runs, well, we'll have them to thank, particularly Tom, who pretty much took us by the hand with good recommendations for the hard parts.

Ryan's car is somewhat lighter than Tom's and runs commensurately faster and quicker... 127 MPH to Tom's 122, but given the weight differential (around 600 pounds, I think) I'd bet their horepower output is very close (about 500, or a little more.)

So, we can't take credit for how this thing runs, unless it runs poorly, which would be a result of our inexperience and lack of assembly expertise.

We should find out in a couple of months.:clock:

Here are the specs:

Block: 1964 Dodge Dart 225 FREE
Crank 1964 Dodge Dart forged 225 FREE
Head, 1964 Dodge Dart 225 that was ported by an unknown source, with 1.74"/1.5" valves installed, an Ebay item. $1200
Intake manifold: Hurricane, Ausssie-Speed, long runner 4bbl $400
Headers: Freddie cut the 1-5/8" tubing and applied the 3-into 1 collectors, the 2-into-1 collector, adhesive taped it all together, and took it to a TIG welder for final welding, then to a coating shop to get it coated. His only header-building effort, at age 72.... I think he did GUD!!! :cheers: $1,000

Parts:
Wiseco, forged pistons, .065" overbore, with thick (.250"?) crowns, flat top, .167" down in the hole, low-drag ring pack from Wiseco ESTIMATE $400
Rods: K-1 198 (7.06") forged ESTIMATE $ 600
Crank turned .010"/010" and neutral-balanced ESTIMATE $250
Rotating assy. balanced
Stock damper FREE
Stock distributor $60
Stock pil pump ESTIMATE $120
Pan deepened 2.5" inches by Tom Wolfe ESTIAMTE $75
750 Holley double-pumper carb, blow-thru modifications by Tom Wolfe ESTIMATE $100 labor + item $375
Bullett cam with .484" gross lift, 220 degrees duration @ .050", with 114 lobe center separation EST. $150
Stock pushrods and stock 1.5:1 (?) rocker arms. FREE
"340" valve springs with an inner spring added for a skosh more pressure (310# open @ .500", 210 on the seat.) FREE
Turbonetics 67 mm compressor turbo. Turbine is unknown.... ignorance is bliss....:angry7:
50 cm (mm?) I don't know metrics...) wastegate FREE
Sizeable blow-off valve FREE
MSD 6-AL-2 digital ignition module; 18 degrees of total mechanical advance $175 EST.
Aluminim radiator $280 EST
Electric cooling fan $180 EST.
Electric water pump drive $75 EST
8/75" B-body rear end $290
Custom back-space rear wheels; 8: wide EST $350
9"-wide Hoosier slicks $400
Cal Tracs FREE
Roll cage $400
Roll control (line-lock) EST. $180
90-10 front shocks/ 50-50, long rear shocks $240 EST
Snowperformance Boost Cooler Meth injection $300
5" shift-light tach $145
Telltale boost gauge $95
lightweight carpet $130
lightweight bucket seat EST. $190
Turbo Action floor shifter, with reverse pattern $300
904 with 2.74:1 low gear and reverse pattern, "full manual" Turbo Action valve body $180 EST
11" 3,000-stall converter from Hughes $500
Battery in trunk kit $125
.024" shim steel head gasket $50
220.000psi ARP head studs $90
Front disc brakes and tubular suspension EST $400
Brake system (master cyl, etc.) EST $250
Front wheels and tires: EST $400
Fuel Cell EST $200
Deep pan: $75
Tranny (904) EST $700
Third member + limited slip $400
Driveshaft EST $275
Subframe connectors EST $150

That's all I can think of right now. About $12,000 and I am sure I forgot a LOT... plus the block, crank, turbo, wastegate, and intercooler were donated.... probably, $2200.00 worth of stuff...

Easily, a $15,000.00 car.... so far.

What we DIDN'T do, that we should have, probably, was:

1. O-ring the block; We KNOW that will come back to bite us...
2. Rock-Block (fill) the block for stiffer cylinder walls
3. Increase the pilot hole diameter for the converter's pilot shaft stub, to 1968 size in the crank hub, so a late model converter could be used instead of this "bastard" converter that has a small pilot shaft and a larger, late model (1968-up) bigger spline pump-drive to fit the later transmission.

But this is our first six... can't think of EVERYTHING... LOL!:profilel:
 

Attachments

  • 100_3489-2.jpg
    102.6 KB · Views: 190
  • 100_3491-1.jpg
    99.2 KB · Views: 158
  • js640_IMG_0518.jpg
    109.4 KB · Views: 177
  • js640_js640_turboside.jpg
    112.7 KB · Views: 168
That does sound cheap, I did the calculations in my head and came up with 289.24. ;-)
I built a supercharged 302 years ago and just grooved the heads and torqued them to 120ft lb. This crushed the head gasket in the head and cured my head gasket problem. Ford 302 has only 8 head bolts and they hate boost.

I would think you'd want to go with a smaller looser converter considering the weight of the car and the need to build boost. More of a question than a statement.

Should I focus on a 64 225? One more thing, you haven't mentioned compression ratio?
Hope you got a light driver to complement the light weight seat and rug 8-)
 
That does sound cheap, I did the calculations in my head and came up with 289.24. ;-)
I built a supercharged 302 years ago and just grooved the heads and torqued them to 120ft lb. This crushed the head gasket in the head and cured my head gasket problem. Ford 302 has only 8 head bolts and they hate boost.

I would think you'd want to go with a smaller looser converter considering the weight of the car and the need to build boost. More of a question than a statement.

Should I focus on a 64 225? One more thing, you haven't mentioned compression ratio?
Hope you got a light driver to complement the light weight seat and rug 8-)

Oh, I'd love to have a, 8" converter, but I told the guy at Hughes all the pertinent info I thought would be helpful, and an 11", with 3,000 stall was what he recommended.

We'll see...... LOL!

Un-milled head and un-milled block, with piston .167" down in the hole, with a .065" overbore, compression ratio is a true 9:1.
 
Check the write up on this turbo Dart..wow!
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKhHpslEdcw&feature=related"]YouTube - Tim Skardoutos's 1971 Turbo Dart Swinger Dyno#2[/ame]
 


Yeah; turbos are better, I think. He made 180 more HP than I did with my Vortech blower, and the only signficant mechanical improvements he had on that motor over mine, were a water-to-air intercooler and Edelbrock heads.

My maximum HP came in earlier (he ran 6,500 rpm) so that was probably a part of his superior rwhp.
 
-
Back
Top