W2/W5/R3 Engine Build Opinions Needed

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GTXperience

Orig Stealth Mod
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I am at a fork in the road re: choosing what kind of motor I am going to be building for a mostly strip/little street '35 Plymouth coupe. I know that cost is going to be a little higher on two of the combinations vs the other but the peace of mind of having a more solid bottom end is very comforting.

Both motors will be stroked (steel crank, H-beams, etc.) and running rollers w/ approx. 10.8-11:1. Looking at several cam profiles, TBD.

Motor #1: 48 degree non-siamese R block with cast iron W2 48 degree heads (w/Shady Dell Stage III port work).

Motor #2: 59 degree non-siamese R3 block with aluminum W5 59 degree heads (w/Shady Dell CNC port work).

Motor #3: 59 degree OEM 340/360 block (partially filled) with W5 59 degree heads (w/Shady Dell CNC port work).

Of course, the 48 degree setup will be the most costly of all three with the 59 degree R3/W5 right behind it and the OEM 340/360/W5 combo bringing up the rear.

Again, I am just looking for opinions and feel free to play devil's advocate. It all helps with the process.

TIA
 
I say start with a good foundation no mater what so number 3 should not be considered. I have big dollars in my stroked 340 with Indy heads now I want more than my 550 HP but am a little afraid of pushing a .040 over production block. Wish I would of started with a better block. Now I have to spend more money for better block and all the machine work again.
 
I say start with a good foundation no mater what so number 3 should not be considered. I have big dollars in my stroked 340 with Indy heads now I want more than my 550 HP but am a little afraid of pushing a .040 over production block. Wish I would of started with a better block. Now I have to spend more money for better block and all the machine work again.

Zhandful, thank you for your input. I agree with you and just have to figure out if I can be happy with a certain HP level or not. If not, I guess it would be better to have a block where I could upgrade if I wanted. BTW: Your 550HP isn't anything to sneeze at. :cheers:
 
Well I'll play the advocate. R3 blocks are very very rare and expensive. If I was going with one I would get a siamese bore that way you could freshen it up many many many times. Also just because you have an R3 doesn't mean they will handle anything you throw at them. They are castings just the same as production blocks and even Ryan himself has seen bad core shifts, missing bolt holes, very small oil passages ect... So just keep that in mind when buying one. If it were my build I just sit tight for a bit and wait on the XP blocks.
 
Well I'll play the advocate. R3 blocks are very very rare and expensive. If I was going with one I would get a siamese bore that way you could freshen it up many many many times. Also just because you have an R3 doesn't mean they will handle anything you throw at them. They are castings just the same as production blocks and even Ryan himself has seen bad core shifts, missing bolt holes, very small oil passages ect... So just keep that in mind when buying one. If it were my build I just sit tight for a bit and wait on the XP blocks.

Street Demon, what's the scoop on the XP blocks? I am not up to speed on them. Re: casting issues and core shift. Yes, I have seen my share. Definitely something to watch out for.
 
Oops I think its XR not sure. It's a one man operation last I heard. He called a few places looking for investors and dealers and as far as I know Shady Dell is one of them. They are suppose to be coming out soon in iron or aluminium. It has many different options including tappet angle, full crank skirt, P5 head compatible and more. Give Ryan a call he will have the info.
 
if it wa me and i had the option of the three... if you cant cross breed them maybe go with the rarest one of the three, for the cool factor since they all make good power
 
I would definitely go with the W5s over the W2s. No comparison in the two in my opinion. It Depends on how fast you want to go and how much money you want to spend for the blocks. I am running a best of 10:59 at 127mph in a 3000 lb car with the 360 W5 head engine I bought from BJR. The engine is a W5 360 .030 over, stock cast crank and rods with KB107 pistons. Comp cam is 248-254@50, 576/582 lift. I am shifting at 6200 and crossing the line at 6500 with 4:56 gears and 31" tires. With the good parts in the bottom end like you spoke of there is a lot more potential for the 360. I have about 80 passes on mine and it just keeps running stronger. Good luck with what ever you build.
 
I'll stab at this................
R block for sure, if you can find one. I run a 'repro', and it's everybit as strong, IMO. If available, go with the 48 degree. Eases use of roller lifters. Ryan did have a selection of blocks lying about. Ask him.
As far as heads. There's lots of options. Seems the W5's and Indy's are commonplace, and 7 and 8's abound at good prices. That mixture would make for easy hp and torque............. JAT.
 
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