Warning: TTI Exhaust with A/T, Console, Manifolds ('65 Abody).

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dibbons

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Another one step forward, two steps back restoration update.

A local (at the time) general repair shop originally installed the 2.5 inch full TTI exhaust system (using stock exhaust manifolds) about ten years ago now. Although the factory clamps hold it up right against the floorboard, nonetheless the transmission parking brake sprag control cable burned through thanks to the fat TTI driver's side head pipe.

I had a spare (used) cable so I went about adding some hi-temp silicone covering. Now the interference is even worse, with the head pipe actually touching the cable/silicone cover. I will need to route the cable a couple of inches further away. I saw no warning in the instructions that TTI provided and, after it was installed by someone else, I was not aware of an interference problem at that time. So buyer beware.

P.S. I was going to forward this to TTI today, but oddly enough, TTI provides no email on their website: "feel free to contact us via phone, fax, or mail."

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Another one step forward, two steps back restoration update.

A local (at the time) general repair shop originally installed the 2.5 inch full TTI exhaust system (using stock exhaust manifolds) about ten years ago now. Although the factory clamps hold it up right against the floorboard, nonetheless the transmission parking brake sprag control cable burned through thanks to the fat TTI driver's side head pipe.

I had a spare (used) cable so I went about adding some hi-temp silicone covering. Now the interference is even worse, with the head pipe actually touching the cable/silicone cover. I will need to route the cable a couple of inches further away. I saw no warning in the instructions that TTI provided and, after it was installed by someone else, I was not aware of an interference problem at that time. So buyer beware.

P.S. I was going to forward this to TTI today, but oddly enough, TTI provides no email on their website: "feel free to contact us via phone, fax, or mail."

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Anyone installing parts should check to see if alls right with them , why I do everything myself .
 
Be aware that although silicone has high heat resistance it WILL CATCH ON FIRE!!!!! I used some silicone tubing on some wiring that went near my exhaust hoping that it would keep the wiring from melting. Well.......the damn silicone sleeve caught on fire from the exhaust heat and I couldn't put the fire OUT!!! Silicone burns at a high temperature and isn't easily extinguished. To make things even worse it was in tight area behind the engine and under the firewall so as my car was burning up I couldn't put out the silicone fire!!! I had always thought that silicone couldn't catch on fire............I WAS TOTALLY WRONG!!! After tons of water and messing up everything around the fire I managed to get the silicone to stop burning. I was amazed at how hot silicone burns and how hard it is to put it out!! If your driving down the highway and your silicone catches on fire you better have either a fire extinguisher or a lot of water or your car will burn to the ground.

THE LONGER YOU LIVE THE MORE YOU LEARN!!!!!!!!!!
 
The specs for all of these high temp silicones are confusing to me. This describes what product I purchased:

500°F / 260°C continuous rating, 800°F / 426°C for periods up to 30 minutes 2200°F / 1205°C for periods up to 15 minutes and short excursions to 3000°F / 1650°C.

AS1072 Aerospace grade firesleeve is fabricated from a dense E-type braided sleeve and then receives a thick coating of self-extinguishing silicone rubber that withstands flame exposure, allowing qualified hose assemblies to meet FAA TSO-C42 (Propeller feathering hose assemblies), TSO-C53a (Fuel and Oil system hose assemblies) and TSO-C75 (Hydraulic hose assemblies). Standard lengths are 100 feet; specific cut lengths are available. Standard color is Oxide-Red in all sizes and Black is available in sizes -04 through -32. Nominal wall thickness is 0.16”.
 
Can't remember what the frame looks like under there. Could you route the cable out and back in to keep it away from the exhaust pipe? How's the motor mounts? You could use a sheet metal shield instead like they use around the master cylinder and brake lines on some Mopars.
 
The specs for all of these high temp silicones are confusing to me. This describes what product I purchased:

500°F / 260°C continuous rating, 800°F / 426°C for periods up to 30 minutes 2200°F / 1205°C for periods up to 15 minutes and short excursions to 3000°F / 1650°C.

AS1072 Aerospace grade firesleeve is fabricated from a dense E-type braided sleeve and then receives a thick coating of self-extinguishing silicone rubber that withstands flame exposure, allowing qualified hose assemblies to meet FAA TSO-C42 (Propeller feathering hose assemblies), TSO-C53a (Fuel and Oil system hose assemblies) and TSO-C75 (Hydraulic hose assemblies). Standard lengths are 100 feet; specific cut lengths are available. Standard color is Oxide-Red in all sizes and Black is available in sizes -04 through -32. Nominal wall thickness is 0.16”.
If I remember correctly I had a good 1 inch space between the pure silicone tubing (heavy wall braided) and the exhaust. I was really surprised when it caught on fire and even more surprised that it's extremely hard to extinguish. Once it catches on fire it bubbles and melts and drips and sticks to everything. I will never again use it near any high heat source on my cars. Maybe a fiberglass sleeve or a sheet metal heat sink/shield (which is what I ended up with)???
 
If I remember correctly I had a good 1 inch space between the pure silicone tubing (heavy wall braided) and the exhaust. I was really surprised when it caught on fire and even more surprised that it's extremely hard to extinguish. Once it catches on fire it bubbles and melts and drips and sticks to everything. I will never again use it near any high heat source on my cars. Maybe a fiberglass sleeve or a sheet metal heat sink/shield (which is what I ended up with)???
Any custom installations require close inspection for proper clearances. TTI does a pretty good job of making their headers fit the application, but it is still up to us to verify fit & clearance. Glad you are working on the fix before something really bad happens!
 
Update: I could not remember which H-Pipe side was driver and which side was passenger.

I called tti today and found that right and left are actually stamped into the pipes on each end. That makes it easy to figure out. Sure enough, even ten years later the stampings are still very clear and visible.
 
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