Water pump GPM?

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ne57

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What's the mechanical water pump GPM for a big block..stock and/or hi-perf?

How do I figure out what GPM I would need in a remote elec water pump?

I know some of you are against an EWP for the street, Fair enough, experience counts but others disagree, still fair enough. I have a special consideration in that I'd like to use a finned alum timing cover for my 392 Hemi to go for a nostalgia look. Well I doubt a mech pump would fit over the finned cover so if there's way to make the remote EWP reliable I say go for it. Even though EWP isn't nostalgia I can be discreet about where its installed.


Its actually the Moon cover but the pic is lousy so there's a Weiand pic also, just to get the idea.

Thanks

moon front cover.jpg


finned timing cover.jpg
 
Been researching more today... It seems all the systems I see have controllers of one type or another, some keep the thermostat, some dril a hole in it and some do w/o a thermostat altogether(assuming I read the lit right).

Would someone clue me in. Why couldn't the remote elec pump with a recirculating loop for lubrication/cooling of the elec motor, simply replace the mech pump? If the remote pump is running all the time, the thermostat would control engine temp anyway? Your mech pump is running all the time.

What am I missing?

Thanks again
 
Car will not see extended mileage except for the occasional long cruise. No PS, no AC, no towing, car will weigh about 3100lbs, torqueflite, stall speed won't be absurdly high, street gears. Moderate ignition timing, 230 degrees at .050, 10.5:1, big valves, block huggers. Once in a while it might get to the dragstrip, for fun, not serious racing. Live in southern NYS so won't see extreme summer temps much. Winter driving is not in the forecast, but on a nice December day who could resist?

Is the reason for having a temp controller turn the ewp on/off more than just temp control? Wouldn't a regular thermostat do that job anyway? Or is it not good to have the elec pump running constantly?...pressure build up in the system, or amp drain or something else?

I see the remote pumps mostly range from 20-55 GPM. And I read that pump ratings are not always based on the same standards. Some guys have used a 20gpm system on the street just fine, others have had problems with 30gpm.

I'm no engineer but it seems like 55GPM is an awful lot of coolant. That's a freeking oil barrel full! My sense tells me as long as there is sufficient volumeand flow in the system, the actual heat transfer would be handled by an efficient radiator. And I've read that while there is the notion that too much flow causes overheating because the coolant doesn't spend enough time in the radiator, I also read(from a EWP supplier) that is actually not the case, cavation and therefor reduced gpm at high rpm is the cause of that.

I'm trying to put some of these fuzzy and sometimes contradictory ideas in perspective so that I can build a reliable system. I think getting an idea of typical GPM for mechanical pumps in a big block is a start. Need something to compare to. I haven't found any info on gpm ratings for even hi-perf mech water pumps, just claims of 'higher flow'. Higher than what and by how much?



Thanks again
 
Sorry. With the amount of driving you will do I can't give any recommendation.

"Occasional long cruise" rules out the use of an electric water pump in my opinion.
 
I was thinking about using an electric water pump on my 440 also. I still have the stock pump on the car and have not went any further. Your concern about the reliability of an electric pump should be answered by the pump manufacture. Call the companies that make the pumps and ask to speak to a design engineer. He should be able to answer your question as to " How reliable the pump will perform on an extended drives" . You might want to ask about using a thermostat as well. Some pumps will need a small amount od back pressure to prevent cavitation. Taking the thermostat out of a engine to increase flow usually results in higher temps in the engine since the pumps is not operating properly. Many racers use a washer with a 1/2 hole as a thermostate.
 
Shogun assures me their pump is streetable. The Moon cover came in and I find the stock pump does fit over it afterall. I'm leaning towards the Shogun and if that doesn't work out well, I can still put the stock ugly pump on. There is also the possibilty of a BBC pump conversion which looks nicer than stock but generally requires a shallower front cover, but maybe something can be done about that, spacers maybe. The only belt requirements at that point would be the pump and the alt, not overly complicated.

If I remember correctly the Shogun was about $179. Add in the plumbing and I think its still not a lot of money to risk if it doesn't work, but we'll see.
 
Yeah that would be utterly cool. Now I've got one more thing to look into.
 
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