went to the parts yard

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1966 dart wagon

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well i finally got out to a parts yard around here and i found a couple things, first off i believe i found a 8 1/4 rear end out of a scamp(dont recall year), woo well i got a pic for confirm, and will this directly bolt up to my 7 1/4 rear end(maybe drive shaft mods) ? secondly i found a big bolt disc brake system out of a valent(sp?) the guy said they are both bbp, but i cant confirm, he said the rear axle drum to drum is 125 and the disc brake setup with whole thing including spindal and uca, is 150.

i was pretty sure the rear end was well worth it especially if it bolts right up. Any suggestions on this setup.

oh and while i was looking around i found an original conversion kit for electronic ign. parts in box! wo, just though it was cool :thumbup:


White car has disc brakes, green has the rear

o i can get a 73+k frame (drum to drum) for $75 its pretty rusty though, and what should i all get for the disc swap i read the moparts article and was still a lil confused, i need the porp. valve(should i just get a new one prolly be worn out) same with master cylinder...should i just snag the one on the car and use it as a core?

o and btw i pulled the heads of the 360, and well all the places ive looked (online) have the wrong number i have no 1 in mine, so it says
3418915 360 1970-72 1.88 1.60
http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0320071116ur5.jpg
just curious as to why its like that?
 
Yep thats an 8 1/4, it will bolt rite in. Need to check the moby doba back there to see if it has a posi unit. Looks like you will be getting dirty getting all those parts. All you need for the discs is the upper control arms and spindls, calipers, and caliper breckets.
 
There "915" heads. The last 3 digits is what we basicly go by. Asking about the heads? My J heads have those numbers casted into them.
I really like the shot of the old OE "Direct connection" ignition box. That IS cool.
 
so i should have no problem with the driveshaft i have in my cuda as of now? On the disc brake car 75 valient it has power brakes i believe, (well if it does) can i use the prop. valve cause i have manual brakes and are probably going to keep them that way. isnt the prop valve different? so should i even grab it from the donnor car for my cuda? how about the master cylinder shoudl i just get a reman one from a parts store and not even get the used one(well maybe for a core?)

http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/axle/17.html
according to moparts the brake TO(edit)brake demetions are different so is the pumpkin and how far it 'sticks out' so i will need a different driveshaft. Will i have any problems cause the axle is 2 inches wider on what i got? any driveshaft sugestions? the one in my cuda was what appears to be is custom made its got a local driveline shop on it, i assume they could shorten it to whatever length i need.
 
Your original valve will work but the disc brake valve might work better. Look at them and if it looks different than yours get it. The disc brake valve has a couple extra valves in it that are supposed to make it work better but I've read where other guys used their original valve with no problem.

Several of us here on the board have had problems with remaufactured master cylinders. Look back about a year ago in the brake section and there are several posts there about the problems. I'd get a new one if I were you. I got a new one for my Cuda from Napa for $45. The reman was $30 and I got 3 junk ones in a row. Problem is they can only be rebuilt so many times but these reman companies don't care. One I got could not possiblly have been tested like they said it was. The threads in one of the output ports were mashed all up. There's no way a line would have screwed into it.
 
if it is a dodge a body 8.25 and driveshaft, it is 3" too long for the cuda. plymouth was 108" wb and dodge was 111".
 
Can't say why Chrysler did that with the head castings but I've seen them both ways but like Rumble said the last 3 are all that matters.
 
redfastback said:
if it is a dodge a body 8.25 and driveshaft, it is 3" too long for the cuda. plymouth was 108" wb and dodge was 111".
Click to expand...
well the rear is out of a plymouth scamp and i got a plymouth cuda so it should work for that reason right
 
It is a hole lot cheaper to shorten it then build a drive shaft if it is to long.
 
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