Wet Header Bolts?

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Earlie A

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Hello all,

I’m working on a 1965 Dart with a 360 engine, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. I need to loosen/remove the passenger side header to work on an oil filter adapter leak. Do I need to drain the coolant? I spoke with Edelbrock tech support, and they told me the outer two bolt holes are wet like a factory iron head. I temporarily removed the two bolts to verify, and both bolts were completely dry. Can someone verify that the bolt holes do/do not hit water? Don’t want to drain coolant for nothing.

Thanks
 
I know the stock heads are wet on both ends. If tech support said they are wet,they should know. Drain it!!!
 
I’ve had some great tech support from Edelbrock in the past, but this particular call wasn’t convincing. Most of the call was spent waiting as the tech flipped through the pages of his book. Thought the experts here would know for sure……
 
Yes. The two end exhaust hole on either side go into the water jacket. They are supposed to be studs. Bolts will never seal right. They need to be the special studs with the bevel on them that matches the bevel in the holes in the head. That's what seals them. I also put high temp red RTV on the threads as well.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yes. The two end exhaust hole on either side go into the water jacket. They are supposed to be studs. Bolts will never seal right. They need to be the special studs with the bevel on them that matches the bevel in the holes in the head. That's what seals them. I also put high temp red RTV on the threads as well.
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That's stock heads, i think Eddie's are blind holes, i would have to look at mine.
My crappy Mopar Commando are Blind.
 
My truck flows are not wet, pretty sure the Edelbrocks are not wet either.
 
Cool. Learn sumffin new everyday. I'd sure check though, just to be sure.
 
My Edelbrock heads are wet holes on both ends. No need to drain all the coolent, just pull the bolts. 65'
 
Earlie A said:
Hello all,

I’m working on a 1965 Dart with a 360 engine, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. I need to loosen/remove the passenger side header to work on an oil filter adapter leak. Do I need to drain the coolant? I spoke with Edelbrock tech support, and they told me the outer two bolt holes are wet like a factory iron head. I temporarily removed the two bolts to verify, and both bolts were completely dry. Can someone verify that the bolt holes do/do not hit water? Don’t want to drain coolant for nothing.

Thanks
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If you already removed the bolts and did not have any coolant leaking out yours must be dry, blind holes.

I have a set here right now, brand new and not modified at all. All of the exhaust header bolt holes in this pair are blind holes that do not go into water jackets. Maybe Edelbrock knows that water is very close behind the holes and they sometimes leak. Who knows. These were part number 60779, with 6077 casting numbers.
 
Took all the bolts out and stuck a wire in the holes. All holes are dry holes. Thanks for the help.
 
Earlie A said:
Took all the bolts out and stuck a wire in the holes. All holes are dry holes. Thanks for the help.
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That's what I thought. My machinist spent a lot of time porting mine, changed all prings etc. and doing a vavle job. Then i spent some time sanding outsides, and reassembled.
And was sure they were but ya never know, thet may have had a batch that were not.
Heres mine all dolled up

eddie2.JPG.jpg
 
Earlie A said:
That took some effort. Don't think I've ever seen a head that polished!
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Thanks, trim restorations, wheels and aluminum polishing over 40 years now. I was considering getting a LD340 to polish next. Have a Offenhauser 2x4 low rise small port i was going to do next. But may do a LD340, or old style Offy single 4bbl if cant get a nice LD.
Here's the intake that goes with the Eddy heads above, and a better picture of the Eddie's

Ozzy-Head.jpg


20200807_160022.jpg
 
Impressive. Can aluminum body trim be polished to that level of shine while still attached to the car, or does it need to be removed to protect the paint?
 
Earlie A said:
Impressive. Can aluminum body trim be polished to that level of shine while still attached to the car, or does it need to be removed to protect the paint?
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Removed. And all ports taped up tight and then cleaned well after even though taped. Lots of sanding with rolls and tapered rolls with a die grinder, like porting on overdose. Then buffed 3 stages black emery, gray emery, white rouge, and blue.

20200731_164616.jpg
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yes. The two end exhaust hole on either side go into the water jacket. They are supposed to be studs. Bolts will never seal right. They need to be the special studs with the bevel on them that matches the bevel in the holes in the head. That's what seals them. I also put high temp red RTV on the threads as well.
Click to expand...
I have no studs on either exhaust end water holes. I have regular header bolts and I have not had any leakage problems..Studs vs Bolts? Does not make any difference.
 
Gator said:
I have no studs on either exhaust end water holes. I have regular header bolts and I have not had any leakage problems..Studs vs Bolts? Does not make any difference.
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Yes, it does. The end holes have a negative chamfer at their opening. The proper factory Chrysler studs have a positive bevel on them that helps to seal when they are tightened in place. Without that seal, using just bolts, there can be leaks there. Just because yours doesn't leak, doesn't make it "right". That just means you got lucky.
 
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