What 1/2 Drive Dial Type Torque Wrench are you using?

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Hyper_pak

Hyper_pak

Old School Chrysler Fan
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I don't trust my craftsman click anymore.
It's not even close anymore according to my old beam wrench.
Looking for advice, Thanks
 
I have an OLD Snap On Torque O Meter TER-175 with the little battery powered light that lights up when the set torque is reached. It even still works. I had my local rep send it off for calibration and they sent it back without calibration.....because it didn't need it. Go figure. I've checked it against my beam type and it's right on the money. Old stuff just works.
 
A 40 year old Proto dial and a 50 year old Craftsman beam wrench.
I use the old beam wrench to verify the Proto. lol
My grandpa assembled a bunch of engines and transmissions with that old beam wrench.
 
I have a fairly modern Snap on click type Only thing I don't like is it only goes one way rightly tighty.
 
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I'm not sure about my Craftsman either. I should break out my old beam wrench and check.
 
The old style beams are much more accurate than people give them credit for.
 
I took my craftsman and put the 1/2 drive in the vise. I set it on 30 lbs and pulled it till the vice and bench moved. No clicky.
I have looked at a couple of Proto's, they say US made with global materials.
 
both my old torque wrenches are made in the good old USA with USA parts.
In fact all my tools are, some off my tools are close to 70 years old. good hand me downs
 
When I was torquing the heads a few times it wasn't clicking when I figured it should. Since I was going in stages I moved on. Next pass it clicked almost immediately. Seems like it was dependent on how straight a pull you were doing.
 
qkcuda said:
When I was torquing the heads a few times it wasn't clicking when I figured it should. Since I was going in stages I moved on. Next pass it clicked almost immediately. Seems like it was dependent on how straight a pull you were doing.
Click to expand...
There is a technique, best way I can describe it is a "slow steady pull, no jerking etc." when using torque wrench. It gets challenging when you are torquing head bolts "in the car" always more user friendly on an engine stand. Of course just my opinion.:) The more you can use the wrench at a 90 degree angle the better, if any other angle you need "torque adapters" to go with your Torque wrench. For example if you can only get on the bolt with a wobble extension, your torque wrench wont be accurate etc.
Torque adapter is at this links,as youll see it would look like a "Z" setup with extensions in order to keep angles at 90 degrees.

torque adapters.jpg
 
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I still use my 1975 Snapon QJR 3200B click type and I still have my Dads from the 1930's
 
If you need repairs or calibration these guys do a great job. Probably not a bad idea to give them a call about what you are working with. I would only send them major brands for repairs. The cheapies may be able to be calibrated but if any repairs need to be made parts may not be available for those off brands. Being in the tool business for near 3 decades, I have ran into a lot of models that couldn't be repaired/calibrated. Many because the ratchet head kits aren't available. Quad State Gauging & Measurement
 
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