What Cam should I get?

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superdart360

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I have a 92 Stock roller cam 360. I would like to get a cam to increase the HP / performance. Just looking for some general advice on this. Just a mild cam with a little lope to it.

I have a edelbrock 650 AVS Carb
Air Gap Intake
Headers.

Thats about all that I have changed from stock. Any help would be great!
Thanks!

102_1065.JPG
 
Whats the cars weight, stall converter and rear end ratio?
 
If staying roller then
hughes HER2228 .520-.544 lift 222*-228* @.050 114cl1800-6100rpm
or HER2836=.544-.568lift 228*-236*@.050 114cl 2000-6300rpm but with stock comp you'll be pushing it.

HER1828 .544-lift 218*-228* 114cl 1800-6100rpm -might be more like it with your bottom end.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
If staying roller then
hughes HER2228 .520-.544 lift 222*-228* @.050 114cl1800-6100rpm
or HER2836=.544-.568lift 228*-236*@.050 114cl 2000-6300rpm but with stock comp you'll be pushing it.

HER1828 .544-lift 218*-228* 114cl 1800-6100rpm -might be more like it with your bottom end.
Click to expand...


Right on the money with the cams.


Now, another thought. With the 308 heads, breathing is much better on the EX than the older heads, is the drastically longer EX duration killing the low end anyway? I wonder if the low end results on th two cams are almost identical. (If you could feel the difference?)
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
If staying roller then
hughes HER2228 .520-.544 lift 222*-228* @.050 114cl1800-6100rpm
or HER2836=.544-.568lift 228*-236*@.050 114cl 2000-6300rpm but with stock comp you'll be pushing it.

HER1828 .544-lift 218*-228* 114cl 1800-6100rpm -might be more like it with your bottom end.
Click to expand...

If he runs either one of these cams he'll need a LOT more stall...$$$$ converter...
 
HER1828 .544-lift 218*-228* 114cl 1800-6100rpm -might be more like it with your bottom end.
Click to expand...
This is the one I would use in your set up. You could skip the extra stall converter and use it with a higher gear ratio like a 3.91. Ths will work well in the street.

At the track, you could really pick up some time with the proper stall converter.
 
Thanks for the great info! One thing on the stall. I have got mixed answers on how a stall converter acts when in the car. One person told me that if I have a 1800 stall the car should not engage until it hits 1800 RPM in drive. This is what I have always understand how a stall works. However when I bought mine and installed it. My car instantly starts moving at a idle. So another person told me to use the stall at the track I would need to hold the brakes in drive and hold the rpms up to warm up the converter so it works.

Can someone clear this up. Thanks!
 
More of a 4spd manual guy talking here, but;

A stall speed is a suggested area,,,, and a grey one at that,,, of where the converter will apply the power in force. The more torque an engine makes the high the stall will be for that converter.

A car will move even if you pop in a 5000 stall converter because it is moving fluid through the trans. But it is super inefficent and will require more pedal to move foward. The amount may be slight to move by compare to a stock converter, but the faster you want to go, the more pedal will be needed.

You need not warm up the converter but the engine and tranny should be at proper/best working temp.
Holding the foot on the brake and reving up the motor will bring you closer to the stall converters working point but probably not get you where you need to be exactly. At the flash point, which is where the converter comes in and surpplies the best result/effort in car movement, is best achieved with a trans brake and will reduce E.T.'s and make the acr more consistant in the 1/4.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
If staying roller then
hughes HER2228 .520-.544 lift 222*-228* @.050 114cl1800-6100rpm
or HER2836=.544-.568lift 228*-236*@.050 114cl 2000-6300rpm but with stock comp you'll be pushing it.

HER1828 .544-lift 218*-228* 114cl 1800-6100rpm -might be more like it with your bottom end.
Click to expand...

I ran the HER2228 in my 408 4 speed except it had a 111 cl. I had about 10-11" vacuum at idle and a nice lope but not radical. The car had pretty good manners and made good power (no dyno or 1/4 mile times) but I had Eddy heads and intake and 10.5 compression. I would ask Hughes for a recommendation as it might be a bit much for a stock engine.
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
Not on a 360, it would be (ok) for a car with lower gears.

However, the heads will need some work.
Click to expand...

Those cams are Way to big to ever get the performance out of them running a stock converter..live and learn..
 
stroked 340 said:
Those cams are Way to big to ever get the performance out of them running a stock converter..live and learn..
Click to expand...

Not in a roller grind, the biggest one 228/236 would get to the point of really needing more converter, it's still cut on a 114cl.

218-228 is barely bigger than a stock 340 hyd grind. Lift has very little to do with manners other than generally providing more vacuum, plus these are ground on pretty wide LSA's

They'd all run better with a 2500-3000 converter.
 
Update, I ordered a cam with the specs above .520-.544 lift 222*-228* @.050.

Will this work with my stock heads or do I need to order new heads?

Thanks!
 
Valve guides may have to be cut down. (?)

Stock OE heads or the Edelbrock heads you posted about?
 
the spring required [1110] is a single w/dampener so check your seal to retainer clearance and cut down guide for .100 clearance

if you go w/1.7 ratio then you need to cut for double springs #1111 & positive viton seals.
 
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