What degree Thermostat?

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StrokerScamp said:
The thermostat ain't gotta thing to do with how hot the engine runs. Just sayin.
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generally speaking,
In my cuda i was running 180 T-stat but was always high on the gauge which caught me off guard several times, but was really 180 to 190 degrees. I changed it this weekend to a 160 now it runs at 160ish and half way on the gauge. keep in mind all components of the cooling system are fairly new.
 
Based on the reading material, I am changing the 160 in the Jensen / 440 to a 180. It runs about 160 so I reckon it will run 180 this summer to see how it does. Probably make the oil last longer, allow me to lean it out a little, and probably have a bit more throttle response.
 
I found when I installed an oil temperature gauge that an engine is only a"warmed up" when the oil reaches operating temperature (which takes longer than heating the coolant). Cylinder head temperature is probably an even better indicator.

I know when drag racing, my best E.T.'s were achieved after the second and subsequent runs, when the engine was completely warmed up but had sat in the staging lanes waiting for 20 to 30 minutes. I assumed the coolant had cooled off some during the wait in line, but the oil and engine parts were still good and warm.
 
Rocky_JS said:
generally speaking,
In my cuda i was running 180 T-stat but was always high on the gauge which caught me off guard several times, but was really 180 to 190 degrees. I changed it this weekend to a 160 now it runs at 160ish and half way on the gauge. keep in mind all components of the cooling system are fairly new.
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I have been thinking about going to a160 just for an experiment , I played w/ about everything else in the cooling system---------
 
Holy resurrection, 9 years. I think I remember this from the 1st time around too.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Make sure it's a high flow.
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When I bought my Duster with a 360 engine, it only had a low flow 160. I replaced it with a high flow 180 and it suddenly got very happy (and the heater started working!). What folks don't realize is running the engine too cool and driving short distances can leave deposits on the engine parts and certainly make it more difficult to boil off moisture.
 
Unless I missed it, one thing I never see in these discussions is the correlation between thermostat temp ratings and radiator cap pressure ratings. Stock slant 6 from the early 60’s ran 160 thermostats and caps rated at 12-14 psi. Eighties slants ran 180 t-stats and 16-18 lb caps. If you wanna go 195, you’ll need a 19-21 lb rad cap.
 
Abarguy said:
Unless I missed it, one thing I never see in these discussions is the correlation between thermostat temp ratings and radiator cap pressure ratings. Stock slant 6 from the early 60’s ran 160 thermostats and caps rated at 12-14 psi. Eighties slants ran 180 t-stats and 16-18 lb caps. If you wanna go 195, you’ll need a 19-21 lb rad cap.
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I just proved that by replacing the 180 deg with a 200 deg for a better mileage experiment. I opened up the valve lash a bit too for higher cranking cylinder pressure. My shiny, relatively new 12 psi radiator cap now leaks like there is no seal in the cap!
 
I have a stock 13lb on mine. Run the lowest pressure cap you can, because it puts much less stress on the cooling system.
 
Abarguy said:
Unless I missed it, one thing I never see in these discussions is the correlation between thermostat temp ratings and radiator cap pressure ratings. Stock slant 6 from the early 60’s ran 160 thermostats and caps rated at 12-14 psi. Eighties slants ran 180 t-stats and 16-18 lb caps. If you wanna go 195, you’ll need a 19-21 lb rad cap.
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Each pound of pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant 3°.
 
I may go back to the 180 deg thermostat just for peace of mind. The antique temp needle rides pretty high on the scale now, sitting about two needle widths from the top of "normal" on the gauge. The needle has never gone higher with either the 180 or 200 thermostats while driving in the NW and cruising the coast to LA but still...
 
Duggie said:
I may go back to the 180 deg thermostat just for peace of mind. The antique temp needle rides pretty high on the scale now, sitting about two needle widths from the top of "normal" on the gauge. The needle has never gone higher with either the 180 or 200 thermostats while driving in the NW and cruising the coast to LA but still...
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I think that's going the wrong way, but have at it.
 
My 11/1 367 runs 207* at the stat-house and a 7# cap. This combo, with a 223/230/110 cam, went 12.9@106 with 3.55s and at 3650 pounds. That's about 335hp.
And with a Final-Drive ratio of 3.55 x.71od x.78 od= 1.97, got 32 mpg on a certain day-trip.
In 1999, I replaced all the hoses except the lower one. I have no idea in what year the bottom rad-hose was new.
If your cooling system is designed right ........ this is not a problem. She ran that way for about a decade and a half or more.
 
180° is factory for 1968. When I replaced my leaky water pump, I replaced the 160° thermostat that was in it since before my Dad bought the car in 1990.
 
AJ/FormS said:
My 11/1 367 runs 207* at the stat-house and a 7# cap. This combo, with a 223/230/110 cam, went 12.9@106 with 3.55s and at 3650 pounds. That's about 335hp.
And with a Final-Drive ratio of 3.55 x.71od x.78 od= 1.97, got 32 mpg on a certain day-trip.
In 1999, I replaced all the hoses except the lower one. I have no idea in what year the bottom rad-hose was new.
If your cooling system is designed right ........ this is not a problem. She ran that way for about a decade and a half or more.
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Come to find out my almost new leaking radiator cap was due to my temporary water pump belt. HA!
Fan Belt.jpg
 
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