What do you use to lubricate a noisy speedometer cable?

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cruiser

cruiser

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The speedo cable in my 1974 Duster rattles when its cold. Sounds a bit better when warmed up. How do you lube the cable core? Pull it all the way out of the housing? Maybe then clean it up really well, then lubricate before running the core back into the housing? Whaddya think? What's the best lube for this? Dry graphite or something else? Thanks- cruiser
 
Yes Pull it out and clean it with brake cleaner. When it’s dry I use a small amount of wheel bearing grease. Slide it back in the housing.

don’t use white lithium grease in a spray can, It will dry out and form a crust.

I answered the question”what do you use”. Not what does the book say.
 
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I do not recommend grease of any kind and neither does the service manual. I use graphite. It needs to be kept dry, because grease can affect how the speedometer reads by gumming up the cable and making it have resistance.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I do not recommend grease of any kind and neither does the service manual. I use graphite. It needs to be kept dry, because grease can affect how the speedometer reads by gumming up the cable and making it have resistance.
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I was just going to put in a reply saying 'use graphite' but then I read all the previous ones..
Absolutely correct, Rob. Graphite.
 
Superior brand white lithium grease specifically for speedometer cables.

h.JPG
 
Never had any concerns using a high quality light engine oil, ATF or good additive such as Duralube. Cable removes from top so oil can be squirted in or gently applied as shoved back in. Greases can tend to be too thick or gummy and cause irregular rotation inside casing - which can, as a result, lead to a jumping needle. Do check how assembly is routed from top to bottom so no sharp curves. Jumping of speedo needle can also be due to stickiness or wear in that upper mechanism, but such issues in the speedo head require a lot more effort (or expense) to correct. So use what you wish, for casing and cable, and hopefully problem solved. Remember also that the cable rotates the same as the nylon coated drive gear and, graphite is a 'solid' so I would no more use it in the casing than I would use it in my door locks.
 
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413 said:
Yes Pull it out and clean it with brake cleaner. When it’s dry I use a small amount of wheel bearing grease. Slide it back in the housing.

don’t use white lithium grease in a spray can, It will dry out and form a crust.

I answered the question”what do you use”. Not what does the book say.
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If I were to pull the cable core out, clean it with brake cleaner, then lube it with dry graphite, wouldn't there still be a lot of crud inside the housing? And wouldn't this crud contaminate the newly cleaned and lubed core? Is there any way to clean the inside of the housing prior to reinstalling the cleaned and lubed core? You'd need some type of long, tiny brush with some solvent to do this. Ideas?
 
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cruiser said:
If I were to pull the cable core out, clean it with brake cleaner, then lube it with dry graphite, wouldn't there still be a lot of crud inside the housing? And wouldn't this crud contaminate the newly cleaned and lubed core? Is there any way to clean the inside of the housing prior to reinstalling the cleaned and lubed core? You'd need some type if long, tiny brush with some solvent to do this. Ideas?
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Then shoot brake cleaner in the housing several times and blow it out.
 
Slick 50 1 Lube in a spray can. I've only found it in Ace Hardwares. It is the most wonderous stuff I have ever found for a lot of things. Go out and get a can, you'll be hooked for life! Once you try it, you won't ever be without a can. I usually buy 3 or 4 cans so I never run out.
 
The core pulls out from instrument end. To properly flush the casing you'll need to disconnect trans end also. Straighten the casing makes pushing the core back in easier too. It is possible to disconnect the cable from instrument and route it out from under the dash, pull the core out into the foot well but that doesn't get the square drive port on back of instrument cleaned.
 
I've always used either lithium grease or lubriplate without issue. As mentioned, check the shaft in the speedo head for play. If it's worn out, lubing the cable won't help. Lubing the speedo head might though.... at least temporarily.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I do not recommend grease of any kind and neither does the service manual. I use graphite. It needs to be kept dry, because grease can affect how the speedometer reads by gumming up the cable and making it have resistance.
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That ^^
 
Directions from the backside of a tube of Chrysler Speedometer Cable Lubricant #1243 632 This does not look like a dry lubricant in a tube.....

speedolube.jpg
 
Dicer said:
Directions from the backside of a tube of Chrysler Speedometer Cable Lubricant #1243 632 This does not look like a dry lubricant in a tube.....

View attachment 1715709447
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Okay, I've solved the problem. Seems like you guys were pretty evenly split on using dry graphite or a white lithium grease product. Since the MOPAR speedometer lubricant in the tube above looks like a grease product, that's what I went with. Pulled the upper cable. (Remember, this car has a factory cruise control setup. The lower cable (servo to trans) was fine, it was the upper cable (servo to speedometer) that was noisy). I removed the core from the housing, both of which were in fine shape even though they were salvaged from a 1979 Volare. I used brake cleaner to clean all the gunk out of the cable housing, and there was a lot in there. I then used brake cleaner to clean the old lubricant off the core. Again, there was a lot there. The old lubricant looked like amber colored grease. The brake cleaner took care of this stuff pretty quickly. I then lubed the entire length of the core with white lithium grease and worked it in and out of the housing to spread it around inside. I did notice that there was a significant amount of resistance when I spun the core by hand, so I withdrew the core and cleaned the excess grease off of it. It was now spinning freely so I put it all back into the car and it works like a champ. The ratcheting noise that it used to make is completely gone. What a relief! Just in case, I measured the upper cable before I reinstalled it, should it fail at some point in the future and I have to buy a new one. It was 36" long, for what its worth. Again, thanks for everyone's input. I've solved SO MANY Duster problems by talking to you guys and gals!
 
Every time I have removed a greased cable it felt like it had sand on it...stuck to the grease used prior. I'd use graphite but if Ma Mopar says use that stuff in a tube....? Grease will still hold grit, like a lapping compound.
 
pishta said:
Every time I have removed a greased cable it felt like it had sand on it...stuck to the grease used prior. I'd use graphite but if Ma Mopar says use that stuff in a tube....? Grease will still hold grit, like a lapping compound.
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That tube looks what? 50 years old? Technology changes.
 
Graphite is pretty old tech also. If anything, greases and oils have advanced more in recent years than graphite has. There's nothing wrong with graphite in certain applications, such as lock cylinders, but, I find it messy and it will stain things pretty easily if you're not careful. Either one will work on a speedo cable....we're not talking a top fuel engine here....
 
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