What headers will fit???

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I see I ooped-up on the pics.
Crackedback's mount image is good, the Lazares mount appears installed wrong, but that should be noticed at the transmission crossmember (and it now makes sense Lazares mentions issues with the distributor and wiper motor).

But.... I would think if Lazares installs the mounts correct (and pull the engine forward about an inch) it will give him even more clearance issues with header and steeringbox).
 
I think fixing it will fix the steering box issues. The middle of #3 pipe is right at the corner of the box. Move it forward and inch and the corner of the box should sit between the #3 and #5 pipes, and the #3 pipe won't be trying to fit the largest diameter part of the pipe past the widest part of the steering box.

I'm still not convinced those conversion mounts are putting the engine in quite the right spot though.
 
Ill post pics later today, or tomorrow, but I managed to shift the motor on the mounts approx 1/4 inch and shimmed gear box, was able to get headers to fit, very tight clearance but they are bolted on.
 
be sure to get us a good picture of those motormounts, head on on the block, I still think they may be on backwards
 
Do you normally have to install headers before motor is in? Or can you install afterwards?
 
if the engine is out...you can install them with the engine...just tie them back out of the way....and as the engine is is finally set in place you can wiggle them on
 
70aarcuda said:
if the engine is out...you can install them with the engine...just tie them back out of the way....and as the engine is is finally set in place you can wiggle them on
Click to expand...
So you have to have engine jacked up to put them in or the engine can be completely bolted in then put headers on. Meaning a running driving car unbolt manifolds and bolt on headers without pulling engine mount bolts and lifting engine. I'm waiting on my headers but want to bolt my engine
 
If you are buying tti headers....go on their website and download the instructions....and if you follow them...they will be the easiest header you will ever install...
 
That I can't do. Way too much for me to afford. That's almost what I paid for the car. Not saying that they aren't good but not a chance.
 
Just talked to my installer about this.....and he mounted the engine like this on both sides.....strange that this is wrong tho considering that everything except for header fit smooth....transmission mount lines up and bolts in perfect....but from what I see above this is wrong....now if I unfortunately move it is will need to repatriate radiator support and reinstall for clearance reasons.....and I'm guessing I will need a new driveshaft made longer....and idk if Trans will still line up

20160609_193056.jpg
 
Guess I should call schumacher and see if these are side specific.....maybe simple as just lifting motor and swapping mounts side to side
 
They go behind the ears. You swap then side to side and you will have other issues. You running a spool style trans mount?

You move the engine forward and the headers will likely fit around the steering box. Notice where your second tube is located now.

Look at this thread for more pic of where the engine should be in relation to the steering box and adjuster nut.

Engine out can I install Dougs beforehand

 
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man, that SUCKS
you mentioned an installer, if this is a reputable company that installed it, they made a boo-boo and should be willing to fix it and eat the cost
if this "installer" was a buddy, well you might be out of luck

if I am not mistaking, the transmission mount can be spun around and installed backwards as well (though the lip interferes if the engine is in the right way, but I'm nut sure if it will if the engine is too far forward)

as for the driveshaft, I'm not touching that, but it could be could be that there is enough tolerance in there to run it, I would call a reputable driveline shop and ask them (of course, if a shop made this mistake have them make it right)

what are you running for a fan?
if your running a clutch style you are out of luck but if you are running a mechanical fan we may be able to run a shorter spacer and be good with where the radiator sits

toss up a few pictures of the fan set-up and well see where we stand
 
Aluminum and electric fan system.....he had to custom modify radiator support to make this work....installer is a father son shop that's pretty reputable....they have a 2 Bay garage and only do muscle car builds and restorations...I mentioned this to him before we finished with headers and he insisting it is not a big deal and will only effect the header install....and he says if anything it should better for handling for moving the center of engine weight towards the rear of engine bay for better overall vehicle balance

IMG_1496.jpg


IMG_1500.jpg
 
These are the pics from before we installed TTI headers and got engive fired up
 
Lazares81 said:
I mentioned this to him before we finished with headers and he insisting it is not a big deal and will only effect the header install....and he says if anything it should better for handling for moving the center of engine weight towards the rear of engine bay for better overall vehicle balance
Click to expand...

though he is right that a better weight distribution makes for a better handling car it sure sounds like an excuse after the fact to me
if it were my car, I would tell him he made a mistake and he needs to own up to up
the only proper way to fix this is pull the mounts, put them on the right spot and reinstall
if that means he has to redo work he did before with the radiator support (which also sounds like a load of nonsense) and pay to have a new driveshaft made, so be it
if he were my son I would call it tuition
 
Yea I agree. I'll talk to the father monday....need to go pick up parts from the shop and go over some other stuff.....drives nice so far and sounds wicked....need to get it up on my alignment rack and dial it in....still only 60 miles on the motor so I think I'll complete the break in before we address this issue
 
Gotta figure out an air cleaner solution too...with the holley carb, 1 inch spacer, qnd air gap intake. I have less than 2 inch clearance with hood shut....want to put a scoop and cut hood but not yet.....any recs on low profile air cleaners or maybe a drop kit for lower seating on carb? Relocation kit maybe for cold air intake?
 
the way it sits right now, I would be worried about the engine rocking and knocking the distributor up against the wiper motor and wiping a post out

they do sell a "drop base" which lowers filter around the carb, but they sometimes cause linkage interference
 
Tell him to build a set of custom headers for it, for free, because that's what it's going to need if you don't install the engine the where the factory put it!

Handling with the engine back 1" or less, PLEASE... It's making this whole deal much more difficult than it needs to be. BOTTOM LINE, the mounts are on the wrong side of the ears! PERIOD!
 
just curios, how is this panning out, did the guy own up to his mistake?
 
Yes he did, in his defense i brought him a half assembled vehicle on a flat bed on a friday, and brought a bunch of parts on a monday, he carried out the installation according to how it was already, kind of not worth fixing it at this time, gonna need to have a custom drive shaft built again, radiator support modified, relocated radiator, headers are already on and engine is running good car is driving good this way. IDK i may adress this down the road, he offered to do the labor no charge down the road, but he can't touch it until october at least, im scheduled to drop off to him in january next year for stage 2 of the build which is moving into interior and electronic set ups. So to be determined down the road if it is worth all the effort. When i originally brought him the car it had the 1973 subframe with the spool style engine mounts, and then i switch it in the middle of the build and he set it up to work with how the radiator support and spacing was set up. Life, part of the car biz, **** happens and nothing is ever perfect, but i am still damn happy with the turn out of the engine build and install and the suspension mods from hotchkis qa1 pst firmfeel, new gear box, rear 8 3/4 diff sure grip posi track def a world of difference from the stock 318 set up
 
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