what is the best small block and why ?

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2 fast z28

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hy guys i bought a 76 dodge dart about a month ago and it corrently has a 318. what is the best small block 340 or 360 and why is it better. i see alot of people running 340 but to me i would think a 360 would be better to build because of bigger cid but i just dont know so if some one could educate me that would be great.
 
360 cause you can get to your goal cheaper with same or better results! 340 is more of a Novolty. Upfront cost is probably 5+ times more than if you just started with a 360.
 
I'm partial to the 318 because not many people choose to build them. I built a nasty little 390 out of one, and it's set to go into my Dart in a few weeks.

It took a 4x4 Dakota that weighed almost 5,000 lbs into the 12's in the 1/4 mile.
 
I'm soooo with Mad Dart on this. BUT, also, what is it your going to do with it? Race? Theres some good plus sides to a 340 in stock stroke or stroker form.
If your going to be on the street, I'd go with (And allways do) a 360. Heres why;

Cheaper pistons for many applications
More torque
VERY similar HP and superior torque lines on otherwise identical parts useage.
The HP and torque come in earlier due to the longer stroke.

But it will also fall like a brick after peak HP. Not so for the 340. The HP lines will hold on alot long than what is probably sane for street driving/engine set ups.

No matter what you choose, enjoy! Because that is what it is all about.
 
I like the 340 (building mine for my 70 Duster) but if you just want a car with more balls to it, I'd look for a late 80's/early 90's 360 (pre mag motors) that all ready have the Roller cam in them (I would have gone this route if 1. I knew about them at the time and 2. because I paid $50 for my 340 motor).
 
1970Duster said:
I like the 340 (building mine for my 70 Duster) but if you just want a car with more balls to it, I'd look for a late 80's/early 90's 360 (pre mag motors) that all ready have the Roller cam in them (I would have gone this route if 1. I knew about them at the time and 2. because I paid $50 for my 340 motor).
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Dang you got your 340 Dirt Cheap.
 
If I didn't have an engine at all...... I would build a 360.

If I had a 340 already, I would not trade it for a 360.

If I had a 318, I would eventually pull it and replace it with a 360 (unless I found a screamin deal on a 340 first).
 
Mad Dart said:
Dang you got your 340 Dirt Cheap.
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Yeah, it was complete when I got it. Also the guy I got it from was a BB person he had a 572 Hemi sitting on a stand (ready for install into a 68 Road Runner), a 440 6pak sitting in a 71 Cuda (guy was really cool and let drive the car around his huge drive way).
 
In my opinion ( in stock form) the early 340s are the best mopar small blocks hands down. First of all they have a forged crank. 360s have cast cranks ( weaker). the early 340s are also higher compression,(10.5) a than 360. 340s have a shorter stroke so they wind higher in RPM. Now this is not to say a 360 is a bad motor, as they can be made to run great too, but in stock form the 340 is the real performer here. In the last several years it has become popular to stroke these small blocks, from 408 to 416 and even bigger, which is fine because they make great torque when stroked. I would say both the 340 and the 360 strokers are fairly simular in performance.
 
The 340, has the largest bore and shortest stroke. Can rpm higher than a 360--unless you put big money in to the 360.

Factor in costs and the 360 gets the win but only cause of costs
 
340 , have 2 now and they are stronger than the 2 360 (2 cranks waked) and 2 318( 1 crank went bad ,2 timing chains and cracked piston) I have had in the past . Better crank , better timing chain and gears , better pistons cam and heads . 360 and 318 cheaper ?? I don't see it .
 
dodge freak said:
The 340, has the largest bore and shortest stroke. Can rpm higher than a 360--unless you put big money in to the 360.

Factor in costs and the 360 gets the win but only cause of costs
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big money...KB107 pistons....LOL
 
jerry6 said:
340 , have 2 now and they are stronger than the 2 360 (2 cranks waked) and 2 318( 1 crank went bad ,2 timing chains and cracked piston) I have had in the past . Better crank , better timing chain and gears , better pistons cam and heads . 360 and 318 cheaper ?? I don't see it .
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When rebuilding from scratch? Sure, but it's only a few bucks more to do a 340 IF you allready have one. There often sold at a much higher price than a 360.

Sorry to hear of the past troubles. Something wasn't right. I have had no problems with ethier engine. Power level ceilings of a cast crank arent as high as a forged, but then again, how many people apporach that level on breaking a cast crank?

Proper parts for the proper power level to do the job properly. Reliabley for a long time.
 
No kidding,those 360 cast cranks are good for better than 550 h.p.
 
If I was building a race engine using factory stroke and bore - then the 340 has the better Rod/stoke ratio which means it will survive better at higher RPM.

The 340 also also more oversquare making it suitable to RPM higher.

HOWEVER - If i was building a streeter - I'd opt for the 360. More torque due to stroke and CUI, cheaper parts, and it will make power where you can use it.

A lot is made of the bigger mains on the 360 and the greater inertial friction - but I reckon the cui and storke of the 360 outweighs any minor disadvantage of larger mains.
 
Rat Patrol said:
HOWEVER - If i was building a streeter - I'd opt for the 360. More torque due to stroke and CUI, cheaper parts, and it will make power where you can use it.

A lot is made of the bigger mains on the 360 and the greater inertial friction - but I reckon the cui and storke of the 360 outweighs any minor disadvantage of larger mains.
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Yeah but a high stall converter solves the low speed drawback of the 340. A 10 inch works great on the street and a 8 inch with a 4,000 stall and 4.10 gears would surprise many 360--408's
 
dodge freak said:
No but they will flex more and wear the main bearings out quicker
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cast crank...bearing wearing out quicker....they probably had thousands returned for warranty work or recalled ????

and just think of all the 318 and 340s ...383...400...and 440 with cast cranks....I should have invested in a bearing company....
 
70aarcuda said:
cast crank...bearing wearing out quicker....they probably had thousands returned for warranty work or recalled ????

and just think of all the 318 and 340s ...383...400...and 440 with cast cranks....I should have invested in a bearing company....
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LOL my thought also
 
Bearing issues are small potato's. Same with frictional losses. While it all add's up on a race engine, a full, all out hold nothing back engine, the soulution is use of narrower bearing, as out lined in the MP book. Great for racing.

I like Rat Patrols post.

I have seen this thread question started a hundered times and there is never really a winner to this question. Perhaps, if the question was more specific and the perameters narrowed down, then a clear choice could emerge. However, for a street car or a street/strip car of no more than a 50/50 type useage, IMO, ethier engine would do.

LOL @ Dodge freak with an answer of a higher converter. This answer, while quit valid is closer to a first shot firing of the war between the engines. The first measure. Then a 360 counter measure arises, then a 340 counter measure, then a 360 counter, counter measure...etc...

The only problem I see with this is that it escalates into full blown race rides with some of the most wacky mods to go fast. The OP seems to have a street car at the ready.
 
cost diff between the 360 and 340 is maybe 50 bucks....

and thats the cost pistons=$199 vs $250

Now stroke them 4'' and tell us which has more cid....

I build either one, or which ever one I had.
 
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