What is the best small block stroker combination?

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Frost

Frost

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I am looking to build a new motor for my Demon. Looking for best combination for stroker I have a 73 340 block, 0.30 over, tubed for a roller, o ringed or can use 360 Magnum 380 hp Chrysler crate motor in the car as a base. Will be going to the RHS heads with a bigger valve. Would like to see 500+ HP

car has at this time:

360 Magnum 380 hp Chrysler crate motor

automatic transmission with reverse valve body

3000 converter

8.75 rear with 4.10 489 housing

MT 275 S 60 drag radials

Holley 750 hp 4150

M1 intake

headers into 3 inch exhaust with X pipe and 3 inch mufflers

turn outs just in front of rear end.

Mopar eletronic ignition box.

Mopar eletronic box

1.89 60 ft./4.87 300 ft. at local 300 ft track.
 
I bought the Eagle 408 stroker kit with H-beams.I,ve never had the engine dynoed,but have ran [email protected],1/8 6.83@100mph 60fts 1.50.I run an 8inch Coan 4500 stall with a .631 lift solid roller cam.Eddy heads mildly ported.
 
After alot of research I found my best option was Rob Bloomer at Bloomer Performance Engineering - BPE - If you contact him - he puts together top notch kits for unbelievable prices - and he is one guy who stands behind all of his products.


Bloomer Performance Engineering LLC
32210 Redfield Street
Niles , MI 49120


Ph. (574) 340-5470
 
The best stroker combo is easy, it is the one that fits your exact and unique needs for you car and your right foot. No one combnation of parts will fit the bill exactly but may come close.
 
I've had 2 stroked 340's a 372 and a Indy 415, flat tappet. Both were low 11's and were considered "mild" builds.Rumblefish said it best,but I'll add what your wallet will allow!!
 
DJV, he's the fella with the 4.25 stroker kit your doing right? Throw up a link kid!
 
pettybludart said:
I bought the Eagle 408 stroker kit with H-beams.I,ve never had the engine dynoed,but have ran [email protected],1/8 6.83@100mph 60fts 1.50.I run an 8inch Coan 4500 stall with a .631 lift solid roller cam.Eddy heads mildly ported.
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The guy at Promax likes the Eagle kits as well. Just wanted to know if one combination worked better than others. I guess good parts, and part selection with a good local machine shop is the key to a good strong motor.
 
rumblefish360 said:
The best stroker combo is easy, it is the one that fits your exact and unique needs for you car and your right foot. No one combnation of parts will fit the bill exactly but may come close.
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This X 1000. Figure out exactly what your wants and needs are first. Different strokes for different folks. heh.
 
Oh...and remember, if buying American is important to you, Eagle ain't it. Neither is Scat. Just food for thought.
 
DJVCUDA said:
After alot of research I found my best option was Rob Bloomer at Bloomer Performance Engineering - BPE - If you contact him - he puts together top notch kits for unbelievable prices - and he is one guy who stands behind all of his products.


Bloomer Performance Engineering LLC
32210 Redfield Street
Niles , MI 49120


Ph. (574) 340-5470
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I checked out the link a body Joe posted and BPE crank and kit checked out pretty good. Thanks for the info.
 
You got a nice trans but still I would really think about going with a BBM before investing lots of $ in a SMB, IMO...why be happy with only 500 hp..or why not get 500 hp easy as poss..CI is key. You got the gears to rev it high, less stroke and larger pistons is how I would go about getting 500 h
 
scott at shurbon machine built my stroker 416 dynoed over 500 hp and 500 ftlbs he will build what ever you want or can aford
 
Mike at MRL Performance built my 416. It dynoed at 575 hp and 550 tq. I would have probably hit 600 hp if hughes engines had done the heads the way they were supposed to be.
 
They've pretty much nailed the big things. Come to a conclusion about what you want fromt he car and how much cash you can honestly drop on it. Then have the block you want to use (I'd go with the MP 360 block) and have it sonic tested. Then buy the parts that can at least achive that level and fit the budget. You may not need a forged crank, but a good cast is within $150 of a forged one and a 360 can be easilly built to make the power a cheap 4" engine makes for less money. Crank finish standards are all over the board and basically follow the "get what you pay for" path. Rods run the gamut too. SIRs will work, but I think the K1s are a better finished part. Pistons - Get the best you can afford and decide what heads you need before you buy them. That's why I suggest you figure out what you want and what you can spend before hand. DJVs guy seems to have decent product but I've only heard/read about his so there's only the one point of reference at this point.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Oh...and remember, if buying American is important to you, Eagle ain't it. Neither is Scat. Just food for thought.
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What is? Almost all our parts are made in china.](*,) Maybe we can start a thread and post up what companies actually make stuff here.I would bite big time at a loyalist movement to keep our $$ here.

I know I'd appreciate it!
 
needsaresto said:
What is? Almost all our parts are made in china.](*,) Maybe we can start a thread and post up what companies actually make stuff here.I would bite big time at a loyalist movement to keep our $$ here.

I know I'd appreciate it!
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I completly agree with this and would love to see this as a thread.
 
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