What oil?

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68SRVIVR

68SRVIVR

Rick/'68 Barracuda 340-S
Joined
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Location
Floral Park, NY
Hey-
I have a '68 Barracuda Formula-S 340.
All original matching #'s.
123,000 on motor.
Want to change oil, but don't know what grade/weight to use.
I'm in Long Island, NY and car is stored for winter.
Also I've seen this oil from quaker state:
Quaker State® Higher Mileage Engine™ with Slick 50® http://www.quakerstate.com/products_motor_oil.aspx
What do you think?

Thanks, Rick

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A 10w30 synthetic that meets ACEA A1/A5, which is a far more stringent spec than the API. Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec come to mind. Zinc is history, so we must rely on the best base oil possible (remember that zinc only has an effect on metal-to-metal contact, if the oil works properly, zinc doesn't matter).

Sooner or later, everybody will probably pipe up with their personal preference. I run Mobil 1 10w 30 in everything and have never had a problem.
 
Very nice car ! Hard to beat black and chrome on anything. We dont see many black fishes. Last one I saw had rocker trim on it too.
That engine was built for leaded high octane fuel and real oil. You can't get the correct fuel today. You can get the correct oil. Rotella is one that still has ZDT in it. If you can find a lead additive for the fuel , use it too.
Honestly, If that engine hasn't had a timing chain R&R I'd been going into it this winter for that and many other reasons, valve guides,etc...
Not that I'm tying to worry you, just worries me.LOL
 
My daily driver/tow vehicle gets Mobil 1..the duster get 15-40 rotella,or pennzoil 15-40 if rotella is not available,the oil in the duster get changed every 25-30 passes..
 
Thanks Red Fish.
Just to clarify...the car is actually Forest Green Metallic (original paint)
with Black interior.
At night it does look black.
 
The car was modified in '69 (by original owner) to take premium unleaded.
Any thoughts on the Quaker State product?
Should I run 10w30 or 10w40?...it does get pretty hot out here in summer.

Thanks.
 
a synthetic oil like Torco would be a good choice. Synthetic oil won't break down as quickly as regular oil does plus a 10-30 synth will stream like a 5-30 regular oil. Of course synth oil is 2x what reg oil is so you'd have to use your judgment there.
What I do is run Torco 10-30 and change my filter every 2k miles and drop the oil every 4k. Just my .02
Most of all BUY USA!!!
 
If it is 123K on the motor since rebuilt or original and is still running good, leave it alone and use 10w40. Unless the seals are bad, it probably doesnt need it. I would look into the chain, though, even though it is a double roller from the factory. If it runs good, it should work well with 10w40 and last for quite a while, considering oil pressure is good. The addition of hardened seats for sure helps in performance over the years.

These small blocks run for a long time with care.
 
OK...great, but just curious - what is difference of 10w30 or 10w40?
Also- If I don't use OEM oil filter, what brand is good?

Thanks again.
 
Wix or NAPA gold which is made by Wix.
 
I`ve heard Wix filters are good too. Your 10-30 and 10-40 oils are all-season oils that will work well year around. Oil thickens as it gets colder and thins as it gets hotter. The 10-40 is a little heavier when hot and will resist thinning a bit more than the 10-30 as temperature increases. You`ll probably want to stay with your 10-30 if you live in N.Y. and drive year-round.
 
See if you can find Brad Penn oil. It still has the high zinc content for the hydraulic lifter. Or add Comp Cam's oil additive.
 
Thanks, jefflock and longgone.
When I bought the car in May'07, the previous owner had just
changed oil...said he used Valvoline 10-40.
Car seems to be running fine, but I want to change oil before
taking out of storage.
If these ZDD claims are true, I want to use the correct oil/additive to match
as closely as possible the oil that the motor required in '68
(so not to damge lifters, etc.)
Could you guys check out the site http://www.zddplus.com/index.htm
and help me decide what to do.
Seems like "modern" oil is not what I should use?

Thanks, Rick
 
Just spoke to tech. at Valvoline.
He suggests VR-1 (higher zinc).
Said he remembers losing to many Mopars at the dragstrip, back in the day!

-R
 
68SRVIVR said:
Just spoke to tech. at Valvoline.
He suggests VR-1 (higher zinc).
Said he remembers losing to many Mopars at the dragstrip, back in the day!

-R
Click to expand...

I use Valvoline VR-1. It`s a good oil for our cars with flat tappet cams. There`s an "off-road" version too which has even more additives but is supposedly not good for much over 1000 miles. My car hardly sees a 1000 miles a year so I run it but for guys that drive their cars every day the street VR-1 is just fine.
 
VR-1 it is Longgone.
Having trouble finding it in 10w30 (Pep Boy's by me only had 20-50).
Know where I can get for good $?

Thanks, Rick
 
Rick,
Whatever weight oil you decide to run, ad a bottle of ZDDP with every oil change. The zinc levels are constantly dropping or have been eliminated all together. Better to play it safe than loose a camshaft for the $10 it cost for a bottle.
 
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