jet_wrnch
Active Member
What should my pinion angle be? Just moved my springs in and I'm try to set up the rear end. Is it 8 or 9 degrees and what is the best way to find it?
I was always under the impression that pinion angle is referring to the diffrence or angle between the front and rear yokes.Stock would be close to zero,probably no more than a few degrees. How much drop on the rear would somewhat depend on how much power you're going to put down, and how much traction you expect(street tires, slicks...), what you're looking for is near zero at full applied power. This number will obviously be different for different vehicles, a slant six with E78-14s will never wind up the rear like a 600 horse big block with slicks, ya know?
There are many variables here, what's your intended use? Street, drag, both? What springs are you running, Superstock, stock slant six or v8, or HD? How much motor? Stick or auto? How much tire? All things to think about...:coffee2:
Put the car on stands or on a drive on lift....
1. measure the angle of the driveshaft installed in the car...
2. measure the angle of the pinion or across end yoke
3. set the diff 4.5 degrees opposite the driveshafts angle.
Now when you are under hard load, the rear angle should be 0 or .5 degrees and you won't have additional loss thru angle.
What you neglected, here, is the TRANSMISSION SHAFT angle.
What you ideally want is when the car is under hard accelleration, you want the PINION shaft and the TRANSMISSION shaft PARALLEL
Just like someone else posted:
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/8.html
I didn't NEGLECT anything, you chose not to read what i put up and understand what was said...
Building a cruiser never to exceed 3000 rpm follow that factory service manual pinion angle set up...
Building a performance car, follow what i said...
Technically for a performance car, he should align the motor and trans so it is at 0 from end to end, but since most will never get that involved, make the 1 angle right
YOU NEGLECTED THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT ANGLE
If you happened to jack the car up so the transmission shaft ANGLE is NOT LEVEL with ground, your instructions will be INCORRECT
(What would you do if this was some wild eye'd "gasser" all jacked up?)
Therefore you NEGLECTED the transmission shaft angle.
This is called "that's how driveshafts work"
The ANGLE is that the two angles of the two u joints MUST CANCEL that is THEY MUST BE THE SAME
The reason for this is that the shaft does NOT turn a "constant speed." The driveshaft actually speeds up and slows down during it's rotation AND THIS IS CAUSED by the angle coming out of the transmission shaft.
The only way to mitigate this CHANGE IN VELOCITY of the driveshaft is to CANCEL it back at the rear axle by having the second angle exactly the same as the first angle.
If you do not know what the first angle is, then you cannot set the second angle.
It's also why, on some 4x4's etc, that a so called "constant velocity" joint is used.