what size BB stroker is best for race only with stock block?

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moparmatt19

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I'm getting ready to lay out the plans on the BB stroker build. This will be the first BB stroker for me. Will be going into a 3,000 lb chassis. Every one builds them from 451 on up. But which is really a better size for an all out race effort? Low deck 400 or RB 440 block? I know bigger is definitely better on a street engine to make big power and keep tame. But the way I see it slinging a 4.5 stroke at the track over and over seems like your asking for block failure.. Wanting your opinions and experience. Thanks!
 
I don't know what your power goal is but I like the 4.15" stroke in a 400 block. Solid roller cam with cnc ported max wedge Indy heads. Put in a Hughes main girdle and run external oiling.
 
400 block all the way,less weight more room in engine bay,better rod ratio,big bore,i have a 499 low deck in my dart,i have a 540 low deck but the mains and block fretted so have to transfer the internals to another block,you can go 540 in a low deck but must use a lighten crank and rods
 
I think the 470 is said to be the best in terms of using off the shelf parts.
 
Let's start with the goal.

Blocks are not the normal failure in a race effort. There's problems with crank walk, failing caps, rods before blocks crack in half.

The bigger is better applies here well, but it is not the end all or goal you NEED to have to start. The best thing about building a huge stroker is the ceiling it offers. You need not hit the ceiling first. There's a stair case for that high cathedral ceiling and you just take 1 step at a time.

Also a bigger engine (540 CID) see's less stress at 700HP than a small engine does. (383 CID) Less stress equals longer life. A stroker also makes there power at a lower rpm. Less stress again.

The draw back is expense. Also, generally speaking, if you build, OH let's just say a nice 540 cube engine but only give it well done factory iron heads, well then I say you might have just stuck with the 400/440 cube displacement.
 
Let's start with the goal.

Blocks are not the normal failure in a race effort. There's problems with crank walk, failing caps, rods before blocks crack in half.

The bigger is better applies here well, but it is not the end all or goal you NEED to have to start. The best thing about building a huge stroker is the ceiling it offers. You need not hit the ceiling first. There's a stair case for that high cathedral ceiling and you just take 1 step at a time.

Also a bigger engine (540 CID) see's less stress at 700HP than a small engine does. (383 CID) Less stress equals longer life. A stroker also makes there power at a lower rpm. Less stress again.

The draw back is expense. Also, generally speaking, if you build, OH let's just say a nice 540 cube engine but only give it well done factory iron heads, well then I say you might have just stuck with the 400/440 cube displacement.

if you can run a longer rod in a 440, how can one get a better rod ratio in a 400 block ?
 
If you go to the 440 source website you will find a long tech article about blocks, 400's in particular concerning best years etc.
 
Is that question is for me Bob?

Then I'd say start measuring and search the books! I don't have a quick answer as to what rods are out there to say will fit in what, but I'll have no issue with a use of another companies rod. A custom rod and/or piston may very be needed.

IIRC, slant 6 guys have used a Mitsubishi rod in there engines.
 
Before u start your build buy Andy Finkbeiners book-how ro build max performance mopar blocks. It will answer all your questions.
 
My uncle had a 470 low deck stroker from muscle motors, it used old stage IV heads flowed [email protected] I believe, ultradyne 640 solid cam, he used a m1 tunnelram with 2 650s also a single m1 with a dominator. Both ran the same. It was in a 3600lb belvedere with 8" ati converter and 4.86 gears. Best pass was 10.40 but ran 10.50s in the worst condition.

He ran that motor for about 5 years shifting at 7000-7200 and when he sold it the bearings looked brand new
 
Got a friend with Fred Brewer headed 511 out of a 400 run 5.30/8.50 on alky
 
I'm looking at 2 different heads. Either a set of victor max wedge heads or a set of Indy's. Would have both cnc ported. My own idea was to run the 470 engine. I've heard a lot of good info on them. I have the max performance big block book. I have no problem running other brand rods. Who sells the good stroker kits? Or would I be better off buying everything separate and get what I want? I'm probably going to send it to MRE to have it all balanced and probably send the block there too. I've heard nothing but good news from them. I use a local shop around here but don't want them to do this engine. They do good work on stock to mild but I want the best I can get. I've learned in the past not to go cheap on the machine shop.
 
You just might find that MRL can put you together a combo with better part for less then if you when and bought them your self.

The machine shop did just that for me. They bought the parts and did the machine work and i did the assembly. Mine was a small block stroker though.
 
I think the 470 is said to be the best in terms of using off the shelf parts.


My 470 low deck has been great going on 14 years and runs solid hi 9`s on 101 unleaded at the pump. Went 9.79 off the trailer 3+ years ago at 3200+ lbs and is now 3050 w/me ready to rock into the 9.60`s w/all of the other susp. mods I`ve done. I have home ported RPM`s w/a 2.19 in. valve and a Victor 383 manifold both of which are heavily ported and my custom 1050 dommy. Isky .680-.660 276-281 @ .050 solid roller, 12.1.1 comp, stock off-set ground 413 forged crank, 6.385 Chevy rods and 2" Supercomp fenderwell headers. A 727 w/a 4.2 lever and fully rollerized internals w/an 8" 5200+ Continental vert and reverse manual vb finish that up w/Richmond 4.10`s and 30 spline Dutchman axles and spool out back in the 8 3/4. The exhaust is side exit 3 1/2" w/bullet muffs............street car I race once in a while and drive everywhere. :cheers:
 
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