what size cam???

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n8ling

n8ling

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So I,m rippen straight into this 360 2bbl I've got and see absolutely no damage and hardly even any wear(on the top end). I'll be into the bottom by thisaft, I know I asked this before but didn't quite Know how deep or big I should go. I think right now I'll just do dual springs, rods,lifters?,4bbl carb, get rid of most the emission goodies,cam,8.25 rear end w/ 3.55 or 3.91, 727 torqueflight trans.........I'm wondering what size approx cam and if I need(or should have) a stall converter. The swinger will mostly be summer week end car with minimal hwy driving. If anyone is running a combo similar to this or knows of, your info will be a great help to me MOPAR or NO CAR
 
Pick a cam that has the rpm range that you'll be driving in most of the time, like if your going to be at 3000rpms most of the time then get a cam that this would be the middle of the rpm band. Dont get a cam that starts at 3000 and goes to 6000 get one that starts at 1000 and goes to 4000 or 4500. A cam like this won't have much sound but will be very driveable and great torque.



BJR Racing
 
:notworth: You don't need dual springs, rod's etc. You need a cam, lifters, flat tops, recon rods, and head work for a low buck street rocker. If your going racing forget it. you need to do much research and big bucks, you didn't state ;your financial situation. but for under 600.00 If you have an engine that doesn.t need bored you will have a mean street machine, if you take your time, read and do your own work. ( PS you don't want to spend the money on a 727 if you have a 904 for the street. some articles say you loose 20 HP to the rear wheels going through a 727.) Put a shift kit and rebuild the 904.)
 
I need more info on what your driving will be like.

Do you want to cruise the hwy at all?
Does 60 mph @ 3,000 RPM scare you?

Something on the cheap?
 
Make sure you're honest with yourself about what you expect from this engine, and how you'll be driving it 90% of the time. As BJR mentioned, don't overcam it if you're driving it around town or on the highway 90% of the time and only go to the strip once or twice a year, because you'll end up with a high RPM screamer but a dog off the line. Match your cam to your heads and especially to your rear gears. If you have the cash, put a set of pistons in there to get your compression up to a true 9:1 plus range, match your valve springs to your cam, which shouldn't need dual springs, and save yourself the money for the extra head work. Depending on the year of that 360, you should have a decent set of heads on it, so just get a good 3 angle valve job done along with the normal head rebuild work, use a steel shim head gasket, and go have some fun. I run an old DC 484 Purple Shaft cam, 915 heads with a 3 angle valve job, steel shim head gaskets, windage tray, LD340 manifold, 625 Carter carb, duals through the original 273 manifolds, and 3:23 gears in my 66 and it will tear the doors off most of the Stangs and Maros around. Plan your engine build with a combination of parts that complement each other and you won't be disappointed. Remember, bigger isn't always better. :) Good luck.
 
Plan your engine build with a combination of parts that complement each other and you won't be disappointed. Remember, bigger isn't always better. :) Good luck.[/QUOTE]


Very true words oldvart, this is what I've been saying all along. :thumblef:


BJR Racing
 
I'm not upping a combo until I get a rear ratio to plan around. The difference in the 3.55's , a drive everywhere gear and 3.91's a drive slower local gear is or can be huge in the build up.
Do you want the car to have the abilty to go hwy. and far? Or is it more of a street light stomper you want?
 
Better get tire size also as this will affect the rear gear ratio to. Just another point.


BJR Racing
 
Big cams have needs. Compression, gearing, converter if you have an automatic. That's just a start. Over camming can often give you a car that performs worse than stock. The only way to reply to your question is if you give us very detailed information on your car set up, intended driving style, and stats on the engine the cam will be going in.

Really, with the info you have given its impossible to give you an answer.
 
The way I read it, you are keeping the stock lower end together, right? For a budget, the Summit Racing cam and lifter pkg works well (p/n SUM-K6900) and will pull strong off idle even with a lack of compression. Invest in a new timing set (chain and gears) too. I'd also run the MP thin head gaskets, and install new valve springs, lose the exh valve rotators and replace with regular retainers (used off a 318 will do fine), replace the valve seals. Not sure what you meant by "rods"..pushrods or connecting rods..you shouldnt need either. If the bearings look good, reinstall them. Dont put new bearings on the old crank without polishing/turning. Run some 1 5/8 headers, and even with a stock convertor and high gears, it will be a riot.
 
I stumbled onto a set of late model Magnum heads from a customer and also a 85 Chrysler 5th Ave. from a neighbor. So far I've got $55 in the both. I thought I'd do a Magnum head install on the LA 318 trick. Because most Mopar heads have small exhaust ports and I'm running the exhaust through stock 66 HP 273 manifolds all the experts recommend a cam with more duration and lift on the exhaust side. I've been checking all the cam mfg's and like the looks of a couple of Lunati Voodoo grinds.
The first favorite is a #60402 220/226 @ .050 duration (262/268 old school) with 475/494 lift. Lobe center is split with a 112/108. (One bonus with the Magnum heads is the 1.6 ratio rockers. It bumps the lift to 506/526.) rated at 1500-5800 rpm. It sounds like a nice little cam for a mild street engine with good street manners. It should work ok with a stock convertor.
The #60403 is a step up with 226/234 @ .050 (268/276), 494/513 lift (526/547 with 1.6 rockers) and 110/106 lobe center rated at 1800-6200 rpm.
It should be a healthy cam for a stick car or a auto with a convertor.
Cam selection is a puzzle for sure. There are so many variables that come into play. You can't make too big of a mistake though if all the parts work in the same rpm range. If your cam works in the 1500-5000 rpm range and so does your intake, and you rarely crank the tach past 5 grand you'll be ok. (see BJR Racing threads #2 and #6 above)

Is there anybody out there that has tried a Voodoo? I may have to start a new thread. Good luck! toolmanmike
 
Mike;

The #60403 is a step up with 226/234 @ .050 (268/276), 494/513 lift (526/547 with 1.6 rockers) and 110/106 lobe center rated at 1800-6200 rpm.
Click to expand...
I really like this cam over the other one since you have exhaust manifolds. The extra long guration is great for the exhaust manifolds. With headers, it would be a bit large IMO. 8* more duration on the exhaust is fine w/headers.
 
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