What to do...

Mopar Racers Forum

  1. j par

    j par Well-hung Member

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    Yeah I like what 12 many was saying. Get it weighed so you know where you stand. I've went to like the scrap yard or just one of the highway truck scales. I like to weigh the front and the back and see how balanced the car is as well. I know on the 73 there's a lot of weight in those bumpers and also they have the girders inside the doors that can come out...
     
  2. j par

    j par Well-hung Member

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    I know a lot of times here if it gets hotter and hotter during the day the car slows down a little bit. But I guess it depends on quite a few things. I've had my car a half-second off and just found out it was the weather or the air pressure of the day. Crap I thought I had lost a cylinder or something LOL..
     
  3. B3422w5

    B3422w5 Well-Known Member

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    Biggest thing i see looking at your incrementals is that its relatively soft on the bottom.
    Considering the altitude it making good power. Should be happy about that.
    Would agree 32-34 timing is likely the sweet spot.
    I would again say the convertor is costing you some without a doubt, and i agree with others the intake is very likely not optimal either. Victor would likely pick it up on the bottom.
    MPH is plenty to go 11.30’s easily. Get that 60 in line, you are there.
    You say 11.75 compression, i assume zero deck flattops is what you have? Or are they in the hole some. With a 60cc head i would think 12.2-12.4 ish compression if zero’ed out.
    What head gasket?
     
  4. Toluene56

    Toluene56 Well-Known Member

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    The pistons stick above deck just slightly . About .008 or .009 I believe. The plan was to run nitrous up to 250 if I was feeling froggy, so the cometic gaskets are .070 to keep me in what I thought would be a "safer" area for tuning with the juice.
     
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    • j par

      j par Well-hung Member

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      I got the same deal. .010 above deck with .070 cometic gaskets... I'm locked and loaded with the nitrous but no open track to try it...
      IMG_20200616_180914.jpg
       
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      • TT5.9mag

        TT5.9mag Two atmospheres are better than one

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        I can’t disagree really. But I’ll say this most of the time lost foot breaking, from what I’ve seen is in the driver not the car, and the trans brake helps the driver drive better. Less things going on. Leaving on a button at stall is easier for less experienced drivers. We all know you’ve been at this a while.
         
      • B3422w5

        B3422w5 Well-Known Member

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        I am probably the exception to the rule but i find it easier to footbrake.
        I bring it up to 2k after turning on first bulb, then use the brake pedal to creep in while still at 2k, then focus on the tree.
        Using the brake with me it always seems more is going on. Hold button put gas to floor, then focus on tree. Its almost Like i focus to much on my gas pedal foot and get focused on the tree later, abd always wonder if i got on it too soon banging off the chip wondering how long i am waiting on the other guy to bump in.
        Most probably disagree, i have a brake in my current car and have never used it for that reason.
        My old car, only used the brake on 4/10ths pro tree index racing
         
      • PRH

        PRH Well-Known Member

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        “Generally”....... as the elevation increases, some additional ignition timing is often beneficial.
         
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        • Toluene56

          Toluene56 Well-Known Member

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          So I LOVE tunnel rams aesthetically .. do you guys think slapping a tunnel ram on at some point would hurt or help the performance situation?
           
        • yellow rose

          yellow rose Walking the crooked mile

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          If you do it correctly the TR is always better.
           
        • Toluene56

          Toluene56 Well-Known Member

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          Yeah I figured tuning would take a bit to get sorted.. I'm still not sure what carbs would potentially be used.. 600s, 650s, 750s(lol probably too much)
           
        • 318willrun

          318willrun Utube channel 318willrun

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          I know a guy that runs a pair of 750 DP Holley's on his tunnel ram, dyno was 650 hp. This is on a 340.
           
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          • 318willrun

            318willrun Utube channel 318willrun

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            But then again, I have a pair of 600's on top of a stock-block 318 with factory exhaust manifolds... lol... The engine will only pull what it needs :)
             
          • Toluene56

            Toluene56 Well-Known Member

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            This is true.
             
          • yellow rose

            yellow rose Walking the crooked mile

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            Two 750’s, no less.
             
          • j par

            j par Well-hung Member

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            I have dual 625 Street demons and I like them a lot. They look awesome and perform well. But not very easy to tune for my tunnel ram because they were like most carbs design for a single carb application.. being as they're relatively new to the scene there tune-ability isn't quite as broad as other more established brands...
             
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            • rumblefish360

              rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away FABO Gold Member

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              While (more than likely) true, once you get the idle and part throttle (under acceleration) down, your in.
              Oh I like that answer. Though it may be difficult to straighten out. I’m sure long time TR Owners and consistent users will stand up and cheer it’s usage, new guys can pull there hair out.

              I also vote for twin 750’s. It will be a bit of trial and error to get it done. But it will sure be cheaper than sending the carbs out to a guru. Perhaps contact Dom, AKA Thumper over @ moparts. Com.
               
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              • yellow rose

                yellow rose Walking the crooked mile

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                Dom isn’t on MoParts much any more. It’s better to catch him on Facebook.
                 
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                • Toluene56

                  Toluene56 Well-Known Member

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                  I could always go down the street to competition carburetors too.. I'm sure I can tune a TR... It's whether I want to spend that much money. Lol... I will eventually just might be a while.
                   
                • rumblefish360

                  rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away FABO Gold Member

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                  The money for a pair of bitchin Holley’s ain’t cheap! That 4 sure! I have a pair of Edelbrock 600’s. There fine for what I’m doing. IF! I get my hands on another Edelbrock 750, I’ll have twins to mount up top.
                   
                • j par

                  j par Well-hung Member

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                  I had and Edelbrock 600 and a Carter 625 that I ran together for many years. I had them tune pretty well at least for drivability and wide open throttle. I'm broke down this last Christmas and got the two 625 Street demons on holiday sale for 288 each. That had me at 576 for both brand new carburetors. Now I ended up selling my 2 carburetors for a hundred and fifty each so right now I'm $276 in to two brand new carburetors..
                  I'm probably another $100 into Jets and metering rods and so forth....
                  This is why people like lead69 run scared and people like yellow rose don't show lol...:poke:...
                  IMG_20200613_194442.jpg
                  :D...
                   
                • mopar65

                  mopar65 Well-Known Member

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                  I used to have a 73 dart just like yours. But mine was a big block car. 440/727 with a tunnel ram. The car was all steel with a plastic hood scoop, no back seat and two front seats. Had 8-3/4 rear axle with 15x8 weld Draglights. Tires were M/T 28x9x15 et street drag radials. Had B body drumb brakes on the back and stock disc on the front. I didn't have a roll bar in the car yet. The car with me in it weighed 3520 on a cat scale at a truck stop. Oh for got I removed the front crash bummper support, but put the factory bummper back on.
                   
                • Toluene56

                  Toluene56 Well-Known Member

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                  Well, I locked out the timing at 32 degrees. Swapped the CE 3 way front shocks back on.
                  Still a crap 60ft.. but it hooked .
                  60ft 1.65
                  1/8 7.35 @94.3
                  1/4 11.509@118.67 with 7,032ft DA

                  I think I'm gonna make a call to yank converters since they're local and see what they say about the converter.. I think this should have 1.5 60s. But it did gain another mph so, that's good.
                  And most runs were between 118.2-118.7mph except for one, added the aircleaner just to see and that run was 117.95
                   
                • PRH

                  PRH Well-Known Member

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                  For 11.50’s and 118mph it does seem like the 60’ is lacking.
                  When I had the 383 in my heap running similar times it would 60’ about a tenth better than that 1.65.

                  I don’t recall your cam exactly.....high 250’s?....... I think at that elevation with a cam that size, foot braking....... 5000-5200 or so stall, min.
                  Imo, it needs an 8” unit.

                  The speed is pretty good...... just gotta work on the front half.

                  Have you done a timing loop and determined 32* is really the sweet spot?
                   
                • justinp61

                  justinp61 Well-Known Member

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                  Having never experienced high altitude I don't know how to compare the numbers from what I have ran over the years at about 400' above sea level.

                  As others have said it needs a better converter. My 340 ran mid 7.20's @ 94 and 11.60's @ 116, it normally went 1.52-.54 60'. The converter at the time was 9 1/2" that flashed 5400. This was in a 69 Dart street/strip deal on pump 93, 3240#.
                   
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