What to look for in a bolt in sprag?

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Baxter61

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So Im upgrading my trans for by BB car while its out and putting a bolt in sprag in. I noticed Summit sells TCI's for $75, CRT has what looks like their house version for $105, and the variations continue up to about $130 before they jump to $190. So any experience with the TCI or the CRT one? Or what should I look for when buying one? FYI, I know almost 0 about trannys (for cars :D) Thanks!
 
if a bolt in sprag has the same amount of rollers as the stock ones you don't need it. it the stock one is broke you need one. if the bolt in has more rollers then a stock one you might want to consider one if the stock one is broke. if you treat the stock sprag with respect it'll do just fine.
 
yeah right , check the tranny forum theres a sticky on this , the stock 727 sprag is a dangerous POS people have lost limbs because of them . CRT are a pretty reputable outfit , the roller count is secondary to replacing the press fit stock unit with a bolt in piece that won't fail when you need it .
 
Torqueflite Patty sells them on Ebay. We've got them in both the Dakota and My Demon. If you shell a rearend, chances are you will need a new sprag. We put the one in the Demon because it's a reverse manual trans, and the one in the Dakota because we sheel a rearend.
 
I think most are based on factory roller counts. The TCI is (at least what I think after using them) is a stock peice with the holes drileld and tapped. It has worked just fine up to 550hp.
 
if a bolt in sprag has the same amount of rollers as the stock ones you don't need it. it the stock one is broke you need one. if the bolt in has more rollers then a stock one you might want to consider one if the stock one is broke. if you treat the stock sprag with respect it'll do just fine.

yeah right , check the tranny forum theres a sticky on this , the stock 727 sprag is a dangerous POS people have lost limbs because of them . CRT are a pretty reputable outfit , the roller count is secondary to replacing the press fit stock unit with a bolt in piece that won't fail when you need it .

last sentence i the top quote buddy.
 
I have a Coen bolt in I will stay with it. Never run a stock sprag with a reverse manual shift non low band apply. Also use atleast a 4 pinion planetary set. I use Diesel planetaries out of a 90-93. No chinese parts in the trans. Depends on where the seat is that trans will take off your leg at the knee and your hand if its on the shifter. Don't go cheap when it comes to your trans.
 
Depends on where the seat is that trans will take off your leg at the knee and your hand if its on the shifter. Don't go cheap when it comes to your trans.

X3

a stock drum is a ticking time bomb also...




Bill sent me photos of the 727 explosion in Mitzi's car. The trans is in a bunch of pieces and the carbon fiber shield is trash too. Even with the carbon fiber shield — pieces came through the floor and slightly injured Mitzi's foot.
MitzisTrans.jpg


Just saw these pictures on another board. I believe that is a Kevlar Trans blanket with a hole.

60687d1161537248-mopar-727-trans-explosion-727skott1.jpg


60688d1161537248-mopar-727-trans-explosion-727skott2.jpg


60689d1161537248-mopar-727-trans-explosion-727skott3.jpg
 
Thanks guys, I totally overlooked the Transmission forum Haha but after it was mentioned I jumped over there and looked at the sticky's. Of course now Im nervous to drive anything! J/k of course, but I do appreciate the recomendations and knowledge this board brings! :cheers:
 
last sentence i the top quote buddy.
first 2 sentences in my quote buddy , not to mention every other post in the thread buddy,the guy asked for help choosing a safety product he didn't come looking to be fed a line of BS about not needing it if you drive like a nancy boy , Like I said Baxter the main thing is securing the piece so it won't spin in the case and fail thats why the 904 doesn't have the same problem because they use a rivited or bolted piece to begin with
 
If CRT is Cope Racing Transmissions,he is a member here,and a standup guy.Glad no serious damage on the Cuda trans,time for a Super Bell.
 
first 2 sentences in my quote buddy , not to mention every other post in the thread buddy,the guy asked for help choosing a safety product he didn't come looking to be fed a line of BS about not needing it if you drive like a nancy boy , Like I said Baxter the main thing is securing the piece so it won't spin in the case and fail thats why the 904 doesn't have the same problem because they use a rivited or bolted piece to begin with

i did just that and it's just to bad you can't handle an opinion different than yours.
 
Ok, here's some opinions, take em or leave em. I don't like low band apply valve bodies due to shift timing difficulties. I wouldn't really want to race a 727 without a billet steel front drum. I would never use a carbon fiber shield, I would use a blanket. A 12 element bolt in is a step in the right direction but stripping the cam is only one way it can fail, if I'm spending the money it would be a 16 element and 6 bolt is better than 4 so A&A would be my choice, I'm almost like Bob on this issue if I was just putting in a 12 element I would really second guess wheather it was worth the effort and cost for the improvement, but if I was going to race it It would have the A&A ultimate in it. But.... I run a glide.
 
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