What would cause my barely used green bearing to do this?

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IT was cracked before it was ever installed. End of story.
 
See post 20 & 21. People have been having problems with these bearings for a long time. Then there are people who say they have never had a problem.
Im one that never has had a problem with them because I run the proper stock tapered bearings like mopar designed them with.
Werent the green bearings a ford thing? Do you really want (F word) parts on your mopar?
 
See post 20 & 21. People have been having problems with these bearings for a long time. Then there are people who say they have never had a problem.
Im one that never has had a problem with them because I run the proper stock tapered bearings like mopar designed them with.
Werent the green bearings a ford thing? Do you really want (F word) parts on your mopar?
Ridiculous... The big three shared tons of ideas...
My green bearings have been working flawless for years...
Something was wrong with the installation...
 
Another reason not to use the Green bearing piece of craps. I used 3 sets of them years ago, and the longest use I got from one set was 6000 miles. They all made noise shortly after installation. I'll never use them again.
 
From Dr Diff’s website,



First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).

The OP has the 1st generation Green Bearings.
 
Who pressed the bearing on ? Some kid at the parts store pressed them on by the outer race and smashed the bearings ?
 
Alot to think about. They were pressed on by whoever presses on bearings for Dutchman Axles. They are the newest version of the green bearings, not the version that requires the button be removed or that has the crimped on flange. It is possible they are somehow not exactly the right length. I'll double check all the measurements. Replacement ends were welded on to the housing on a straightening jig and set to the proper length before these were installed, as the original ends were messed up. I spent a lot of money to get the housing right, so hopefully it's not an issue but who knows. I'm about to throw the whole damn rear in the trash and start over. All I wanted to do was get a working 8.75 in this car and it's been a nightmare. I'd be happy to get new axles and even use the original tapered style bearing with them, but now I'm questioning the housing again.
 
What diff ? If it has this spacer It MUST be removed

img309.jpg
 
I rest my case. You will find people who swear by them and people who dont. I personally never ran them but have seen enough failures that makes me not want to run them. The stock tapered bearings cost more to replace but have a very low failure rate.
 
I installed these dutchman axles a few years ago, and they have very few miles on them. I pulled them out today to replace the pumpkin, and this is what I find. What in the world would cause this? This is just the one axle.

View attachment 1715732007 View attachment 1715732008

Full size pictures
http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210502_155032.jpg
http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210502_155059.jpg

The one and only time I have seen green bearings look like that was because the button wasn’t removed first.
 
I installed these dutchman axles a few years ago, and they have very few miles on them. I pulled them out today to replace the pumpkin, and this is what I find. What in the world would cause this? This is just the one axle.

View attachment 1715732007 View attachment 1715732008

Full size pictures
http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210502_155032.jpg
http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20210502_155059.jpg
They look kinda dry, what grease were you using?
I have had 3 different 8 3/4 rear ends with green bearings, many hole shots thousands of street miles - no issues.
When you installed them did they slip right in by hand or did you have to force them in?
 
Insufficient end-play .
Shims are avail.
Some after-market axles come " trim to fit " .
As per post #18 .

There sure is a lot of hoop-jumpin' and 'obligatory but undocumented details' to install bearings that were never recommended, to solve a problem that never existed.

Spacer this, trim that, shim the other, remove the button, install the shim, yak yak yak. This version, that version, install this way or some other.

And that's better than spinning an adjuster once every fifty thousand miles, how? Jesus, what a cluster f**k.
 
I do completely agree about using the tapered roller bearings. I've always preferred them myself. I don't however understand why people think they have to be insulting and hateful about which bearings to use. Just pick your parts, run them and be done with it.
 
I do completely agree about using the tapered roller bearings. I've always preferred them myself. I don't however understand why people think they have to be insulting and hateful about which bearings to use. Just pick your parts, run them and be done with it.
Screenshot_20200903-161848.png
 
There sure is a lot of hoop-jumpin' and 'obligatory but undocumented details' to install bearings that were never recommended, to solve a problem that never existed.

Spacer this, trim that, shim the other, remove the button, install the shim, yak yak yak. This version, that version, install this way or some other.

And that's better than spinning an adjuster once every fifty thousand miles, how? Jesus, what a cluster f**k.


Because the green bearing, if installed correctly in a straight housing is just as good as a tapered bearing without needing to bother with adjustments. They are simple and they work.
 
Because the green bearing, if installed correctly in a straight housing is just as good as a tapered bearing without needing to bother with adjustments. They are simple and they work.

Someone erroneously made the Ford comment. Ford.....and others have been using the "green" style bearings since at least the 1950s and in some really heavy duty applications. Even though I prefer the original style tapered roller, there's nothing wrong with the green style bearings just because they are that style.
 
Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.

First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).

In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.

Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.

Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.

I have several customers running MO-400 snap-ring Green bearings in daily drivers. The design is no different than what came stock in millions of other vehicles, including ’60s era Mopar 7.25″ and Ford 9″ rears. (For example, see here) I do not stock, nor do I recommend the first generation RP-400 Green bearing with the crimped-on 5 hole retainer. I only carry the “loose fit, snap ring style” second generation MO-400 design.


Again, copy and pasted from Dr Diff website. The OP is using inferior 1st Gen Green Bearings.
It’s a beneficial read and upgrade to use the 2nd Gen Snap Ring RP-400 style bearing. Period
 
Because the green bearing, if installed correctly in a straight housing is just as good as a tapered bearing without needing to bother with adjustments. They are simple and they work.

Based on this thread, your definition of 'simple' and 'they work' might be in the wrong thread.
 
Unfortunately, the original Mopar Green wheel bearing design has 2 problems.

First generation (RP-400) Green bearings, still sold by Mopar Performance and others, are problematic because the crimped-on flange will not allow the bearing to wiggle around inside a housing that is not perfectly straight (none are).

In addition, the design causes the axle to be inserted DEEPER into the housing than necessary. This results in pre-loading against the differential thrust block and early bearing failure.

Second generation (MO-400) snap-ring style Green bearings are forgiving because they can move around inside the housing and they do not preload the differential thrust block in a stock application.

Most guys who have problems with Green bearings are running the RP-400 first generation version or incorrectly made aftermarket axles or housings or poorly designed rear disc brake kits, all of which cause pre-loading and premature bearing failure.

I have several customers running MO-400 snap-ring Green bearings in daily drivers. The design is no different than what came stock in millions of other vehicles, including ’60s era Mopar 7.25″ and Ford 9″ rears. (For example, see here) I do not stock, nor do I recommend the first generation RP-400 Green bearing with the crimped-on 5 hole retainer. I only carry the “loose fit, snap ring style” second generation MO-400 design.


Again, copy and pasted from Dr Diff website. The OP is using inferior 1st Gen Green Bearings.
It’s a beneficial read and upgrade to use the 2nd Gen Snap Ring RP-400 style bearing. Period

Is that with, or without shimming, trimming axles to length, removing/adding the thrust block, undefined proper install, and/or the mysteriously impossible to find 'straight housing'?
 
In my experience the 1st Gen bearings didn’t last me long, probably around 1 year of use. I did remove the thrust block and the install was done correctly, including the pressing on of the bearings. Replacing the defective 1st Gen Bearing to the 2nd Gen bearing has lasted me over 20 years.
As far as 8.75 housings being straight in my experience making 451HP and 589Tq at the rear wheels, the axle housing does twist and become deformed. I can visually see spring perches bending, axle housing bending, kinking below the U bolts (especially on the passenger side). Transbrake, blower, nitrous, 3800 pound race weight big tires, etc....
We really don’t know what the OP’s installation process consisted of.......
With that said, the 2nd Gen Green Bearings are a better design.
 
They look kinda dry, what grease were you using?
I have had 3 different 8 3/4 rear ends with green bearings, many hole shots thousands of street miles - no issues.
When you installed them did they slip right in by hand or did you have to force them in?
OP update?
 
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