What would it take

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Scamper

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Just wondering

What would it take for a 300 lb driver and a 71 scamp to run mid to low 12's
using a 360 not a stroker : what needs to be done to engine and tranny,rear etc but keeping it as a weekend driver with full interior carpet etc.
This is just a bucket list question :read2:
 
Just wondering

What would it take for a 300 lb driver and a 71 scamp to run mid to low 12's
using a 360 not a stroker : what needs to be done to engine and tranny,rear etc but keeping it as a weekend driver with full interior carpet etc.
This is just a bucket list question :read2:

I'm 145 lbs. & ran 12.5s in a 71 Swinger, i dropped in a junkyard magnum 360 with stock bottom end, RHS heads, re-ground cam (small), headers, crosswind RPM, 650dp, 11" 2800 stall, 3.73 gears, 27" MT DR, it was basically very mild, i'm guessing the race weight was 3200.
 
thank you for replying i wonder how much twice the drivers weight makes?
 
Thanks Guitar. I am slowly learning gonna go to the Friday night street drags here when they open and try to learn more.
 
Well maybe you could give us some info about your set up so we could get you headed in the right direction. Mid 12's are obtainable and very streetable.

Hi .400 lift cam, a good intake, 750 cfm carb, good flowing heads,headers, 3000-3500 stall and 3.90 gears. Get yourself some M/T ET street radials and a pinion snubber.

The heads don't have to be Aluminums but they need to flow. Hughes Engines have a nice selection of cams. Their cams get more lift with less duration and not as choppy as a full race cam. It will be a sleeper. I would go with a single plane intake;edelbrock performer or something like that. A 750 carb will work on the street and strip. Spend the money on a coated header. Painted ones will rust way faster. The launch is very important to run a good ET so a higher stall is in order. I would look into a 3500 rpm stall. It will still be streetable but let you stall it up some on the launch. All that new found power will be useless unless you have a good set of tires. There are a few companies that make a good 28" street drag radial. You could use a 3.73 or 3.90 gear those are a good street gear that will also get you moving under hard acceleration. You could always go with a 4.10 but it will rev a little high on the interstate. Also you might want to look into cal trac traction bars. That will keep the leafs from wrapping on launch. A good set of adj shocks would help also. You could adj them for the street them tune them when you are racing. Reducing the weight of the car is helpful. Fiberglass hood and Aluminum engine parts are the easy way(heads,intake,H2O housing/pump,radiator)

There are a lot of ways to get to the 12's but these are a few things that I think would get you there, heck you might even hit the hi 11's
These are only my opinions so hopefully others will give there input also
 
Thanks guys,

My set up currently is next to nothing this is why I asked so that I build it right once.
Rear is an 8 3/4 non posi 727 trans 360 4 brl that needs a rebuild manual brakes manual steering with the quick ratio arm. I was going to go big block but whoa way too expensive.
I have decided to rebuild 360 : rear gears I am wanting to go posi once i learn correct ratio needed trans is good will put a shift kit in it and a torque converter i also intend on frame connectors i have cheap 14" fake center line wheels atm but really want to spend last on a new set. this is all in a 1971 scamp (heads will be j heads due to what i have and budget)
 
It really doesn't take a lot to get into the 12's, as has been said, mild port work, good intake, .470 lift cam, 750 carb, gear, headers and a converter.
 
ok thats what i will do now how do you guys feel about used parts? intake torque converter gears etc? purchase slower and go new or have you guys had luck with used
Thanks
 
ok thats what i will do now how do you guys feel about used parts? intake torque converter gears etc? purchase slower and go new or have you guys had luck with used
Thanks

I have had both good and bad luck buying used parts. It's better if you buy them from someone you know and/or trust.
 
Not to tough to run 12-12.50

Anywhere from 350-400hp at 3300-3400# with a good converter/gear/tire and chassis that works.
 
ok thats what i will do now how do you guys feel about used parts? intake torque converter gears etc? purchase slower and go new or have you guys had luck with used
Thanks

If you are buying used things like intakes and headers or rearend stuff usually ok. You can check these things easly other things better off new cam, lifters, pistons things of this nature. Lots of good guys around hear with some nice used stuff they took off just because they changed directions or stepped thier cars up some more so the parts are good and a fair value.

Good luck with your build take your time and think it thru should not be that hard to reach your goals.
 
.............for eack 100# u lose u gain 1 tenth..............kim............

and this is surprisingly accurate....my husband weighs 100 pounds more than me and I ALWAYS go a tenth faster in the same car. :p
 
thanks for all your input I have now decided a goal now I just have to come up with a plan of attack and begin
 
I have decided not to be too cheap and I am awaiting a quote from a local builder on a 408 stroker.He says he will get 500 hp from it and I will be more than likely running 3:91 in the rear to start.I will order some cal tracs when I order the kit.I am currently thinking fenderwell headers with electric cutouts.With my big arse this should hit my goal.It turns out that right now the stroker kits are not that much more than if I ordered pistons rods etc seperately Could be a fun summer all motor and ugly as hell for this year lol
 
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