What's it gonna run

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USCG CHARGER

USCG CHARGER

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This is just a convo piece I wanted to put together just so I can get a ball park figure on what my build will run. I know There will be items that I will have to change and that wont work.

Engine: 416 stroker
R1 block 4.07 bore
4" forged crank
carrillo rods
CP pistons (compression ratio 11:1)
W9 fully ported heads (bench flow number are 380ish)
mild street roller cam specs ? I have to get back with you.

Drive train:
Andrews racing RMVB
Ultimate converter 9" 4500 stall

Suspension:
right now its SS springs but will be chainging them to a Triangulated 4-bar rear susension system next winter http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16172&cat=263&page=1
The front has stock UCA's no sway bar etc.... stock k frame
Frame connectors, chrome molly 8pt roll bar.

REar:
Right now I have a 8.75 with 4.10 gears sure grip 742 case... I will be getting rid of this before I make my 1st pass for sure... to a Dana 60 not sure about the gears though I was thinkin either 4.10's or 4.30's with a 28" tire.

I'd like to get deep into the tens on motor wth this set up then later hit it with a 250-300 shot when myself and the car is ready for it.
 
just talked to my engine builder he said the cam he has is approx:

250ish dur
630ish lift
 
Ask him for the cam card specs. Enertainment purposes, helps with dyno sims of the brain and home computer.
Also flow rates of the head through the various lifts.
 
bout a half second slower than mine. just yanking your chain. may be a 9.90 super gas beast
 
My engine builder seems to think 9.90's on motor is very doable if I can hook... He is est. approx 650-675 RWHP
 
No way. Not with that cam anyway. What are the flow rates on the heads? The 9" convertor can be shelved IMO, unless Lenny's got something trick. I'd go 8" and it will need a ballooning plate. If you're going splayed 4 link (the wishbone) I would get some real tire under it. 28s are good for a street car, but I'd mini tub it and go 30s and run a set of 4.56s. Also, get really good shocks. I've watched A Body Joe's car pull the front wheels with that Oreily setup. Great stuff there.
 
moper said:
No way. Not with that cam anyway. What are the flow rates on the heads? The 9" convertor can be shelved IMO, unless Lenny's got something trick. I'd go 8" and it will need a ballooning plate. If you're going splayed 4 link (the wishbone) I would get some real tire under it. 28s are good for a street car, but I'd mini tub it and go 30s and run a set of 4.56s. Also, get really good shocks. I've watched A Body Joe's car pull the front wheels with that Oreily setup. Great stuff there.
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Like I said the cam is something that we are gonna play with once it's in the car.... Lenny said this TC is very trick and would be my best bet if I wanted to run some on the street,,,, My car is already mini tubbed so ur thinkin 30's? wiw no thats a tire, I do need help on the gearing.. the car will be 75 drag 25 street.. i'd like to go to a fw car shows a drive it a few sundays or something.
 
Wow, big *** head flow and a little cam and even smaller tires and gears. It'll never hook and when it does it won't be anywhere near the rpm range those heads are going to need.

Those heads are huge and will need rpm to make power. Personally I'd say 5.13 gear with a 14/32 or 15/33 tire and an 8" converter in the 5500 range. And that is being conservative. lol

You didn't mention what the car weighs (or did I just miss it?) but 9's are certainly well within reach if you exploit those heads to their full advantage. Mid to low 9's in a 3000 or less pound car with a real race 4 link suspension and a big tire.

It's not just the width of the tire that provides the footprint, it's also the height. As the suspension plants the tire it spreads lengthwise too. The taller the tire the larger and longer the footprint.

Personally I'd spend less coin on the engine and more on the suspension. You'll probably be faster that way. All the power in the world isn't worth a damn thing if you can't plant it to the asphalt.
 
Guitar Jones said:
Wow, big *** head flow and a little cam and even smaller tires and gears. It'll never hook and when it does it won't be anywhere near the rpm range those heads are going to need. The cam is just one that he had on hand.. I can always change it.. and wheels and tire combo I have bought yet... I need a 29-31x10.5x15 combo right? I's like to try and get the biggest tire under it with out cutting my dana

Those heads are huge and will need rpm to make power. Personally I'd say 5.13 gear with a 14/32 or 15/33 tire and an 8" converter in the 5500 range. And that is being conservative. lol

You didn't mention what the car weighs (or did I just miss it?) but 9's are certainly well within reach if you exploit those heads to their full advantage. Mid to low 9's in a 3000 or less pound car with a real race 4 link suspension and a big tire.

It's not just the width of the tire that provides the footprint, it's also the height. As the suspension plants the tire it spreads lengthwise too. The taller the tire the larger and longer the footprint.

Personally I'd spend less coin on the engine and more on the suspension. You'll probably be faster that way. All the power in the world isn't worth a damn thing if you can't plant it to the asphalt.
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thx man keep it coming its helpin alot.. the car will not be race ready right off bat b/c of a fw safety things... but the suspension is deff. getting changed in the rear to prolly the RMP system.
 
I'll defer to Lenny on the TC then...lol. The reason I suggested the minitubs and the taller tire is the footprint as Guitar said. However, IMO, there is a point where the car needs to still look like a street car...lol. Teh gearing is close for the same reason. Taller tire, but you want the engine to be in the power band. Unfortunately, again as Guitar said... Too much port, not enough cam, and too much rpm in relation to the power band in terms of the rear axle "as is".
 
yeah I'm gonna talk to my builder and brain storm on some ideas for a strip/street cam.... It looks like I'm gonna go with the trangle rear suspension vs caltracs.. the cal tracs price after shocks front and rear is gonna cost me $850 the 4 link is only another 900... seems dumb to do it twice..... as for tire I was lookin at a 30x11.2x15 slick and some thing similar in a DOT DR for street use.....
 
It's always a give and take thing when street driving is involved. Personally, I'd run more cam (lift and dur) with those heads, if it's a roller. If it isn't, I'd definitely invest in one. Roller cams are much easier to live with, when large amts of lift/dur are considered. That's a whack of head for that bore. I doubt you'll get the full flow advantage with that diameter cylinder. All that being said, it will be a handful.............
 
lenweiler said:
It's always a give and take thing when street driving is involved. Personally, I'd run more cam (lift and dur) with those heads, if it's a roller. If it isn't, I'd definitely invest in one. Roller cams are much easier to live with, when large amts of lift/dur are considered. That's a whack of head for that bore. I doubt you'll get the full flow advantage with that diameter cylinder. All that being said, it will be a handful.............
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I think that with it beeing 25% street driven the size cam should be ok... yes I have a sold roller DT....I tend to think that if the heads are as good as these you dont need as much cam in it to make the thing run.....If I start putting to much lift in her I run the risk of breaking lifters, tought on the overall drive train.. for what.....1-.3 tenths? Not worth it...

Why do you think these heads are whack of a head for this bore? Please explain.
 
If I'm not mistaken, the int. valve is around 2.15 min std with those 9's and can go to 2.18ish?. With that size plate the cylinder is the restricting factor on these sm. blk strokers. This is not me. This comes from guys that build these heads and engines often. I've got a set of Indy's that sport 2.15" int. and was cautioned by the porter that these heads want lots of piston. A min of 4.07" was min. and that was the beginning. A 4.10" was better and still not the optimum size. I believe most of these flow numbers in these heads are given with a 4.25" fixture.
 
lenweiler said:
If I'm not mistaken, the int. valve is around 2.15 min std with those 9's and can go to 2.18ish?. With that size plate the cylinder is the restricting factor on these sm. blk strokers. This is not me. This comes from guys that build these heads and engines often. I've got a set of Indy's that sport 2.15" int. and was cautioned by the porter that these heads want lots of piston. A min of 4.07" was min. and that was the beginning. A 4.10" was better and still not the optimum size. I believe most of these flow numbers in these heads are given with a 4.25" fixture.
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Well Phil Colman ported these heads said the 15 valve angle was optimal for this set up....you are really limited on the bore size to about 4.125 with these R1 blocks... which in my case I hope to have a few more build left after this one if needed....
 
First time out ? If ya can get it to hook up- 10.2 stall speed seems a little high by maybe 5-8 hundred rpm.
 
beastie340 said:
First time out ? If ya can get it to hook up- 10.2 stall speed seems a little high by maybe 5-8 hundred rpm.
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in this car it will be... I race a 06 charger (4414 lbs) that has a 5.7 stroker in it and goes 11.4's @ 119 mph.... Thats just not fast enough for my blood sorry... lol... I wold like to get low 10's with this dart then spray the piss outta it..... why would u think the stall speed is low?
 
A buddie of mine has a 69 Barracuda. Engine is set up nearly Identical to yours. His has caltraks and is mini tubbed, runs slicks. He runs consistant low tens 10.15 to 10.26 without juice into the 9s with. Started out with higher stall speed dropped it to 3500-3800 lap times decreased 60 ft improved. The torque band (at least in this case for sure and seems to be the case with SB strokers) starts right about there. Lets the engine hook up and pull sooner. Seems with the higher stall speed it was wasting torque. From the passenger seat the higher stall was like hey that sounds good and this is fun. When he lowered the stall speed it was like WHOOA YAA soon as it hit 4 grand and just kept pullin from there . He runs 4:56s and RPM ceiling as limited 7500 RPM shifts at 65 to 68K.

Gave him a call to confirm this stuff and had to listen to him go on about troubles with his 727 sprag his soon to be ex BLA BLA.
 
so he's running W9 heads too with a 340 stroker? Nice.. what cam is he running? Has he dynoed the car? I only said that Stall speed b/c Lenny said that's what I needed to run in a 75% strip 25% street car.... with a smaller cam like mine it makes since not to run as much stall right?

I'll be running 4.30's vs ur buddys 4.56 which makes a difference too....my builder said I needede about a 3500-3700 stall as well but I blew him off...lol...
 
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