What's it gonna take?

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wigsplitter74

wigsplitter74

The Mopar Kid
Joined
Feb 9, 2009
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Location
Janesville, WI
I've got a 340 with forged 13:1 pistons, an 8 bolt billet crank, and I'd like to put it together and in some A body in the family. I've got a good 727 with a manual valve body and a 10" 3500 stall, we have some 4.56 gears also. the car will have a tied up fram, mini tubbed, stock tank and a Holley blue pump. I have a set of X heads I can port and a holley strip dominator intake and a 750DP HP carb. What will it take to get this into some mid or low 11's ? I need to pick a cam that will be okay with my converter, preferably a flat tappet probably solid. So what do I need to do or is this off to a good start for an 11 sec car? Thanks much
 
My build 11.78 @118mph

quoted from another thread.

My car is full stock body (no mini tubs or mods) with full stock interior.

Ok these are some of the specs on my engine.

Its a standard bore 340. (My original engine)

Cam: Crower Solid Street Roller. #3146 (This is the old 3164 grind from 1988 the new grind with the same # has less lift and duration.)

RPM power range 3200-7200 (redline 7800+)

Grind Lobe Center: 290R/112 degrees
Advertised Duration: intake-290, exhaust-294
Duration at .050": intake-251, exhaust-256
Gross Lift: intake-.550", exhaust-.555"

Holley 800DP

Victor 340 intake.

Heads: professionally ported and flowed original X heads.

Harland Sharp rockers

Hooker Super Comps into 3" mandrel bent exhaust

Extensively reworked/polished stock rods.

Balanced…. And so on…

Basically a precision, high compression (about 12 to 1) and high RPM build. Regularly saw 8000rpm at the track.


And so on, but that is the basic engine stuff.


And then…… We get into all the other crap that you need…. custom built clutch, sub frame connectors, scatter shield, battery relocation, dana 60, electric water pump, electric fans, drag shocks, alignment for track use, SS springs…..
 
I would contact Hughes about one of their cams but I know you can get into the tens with an old MP .590 solid flat tappet cam.

You all can say what you will about that cam but it works and it's cheap.
 
Thanks for the replies, I'm hoping to do this as dirt cheap as possible lol think of me like Tax Return Racing. I've been trying to buy a trans I know of with a brake and 4500 vert but the guy won't return my e-mails URGH!

Also I've got an old Crane Blazer solid flat tappet cam that's like .500/.480 and like 300adv duration I could try and use, Any thoughts on that?
 
You will need a cage for low 11s if you run at a track.

Getting low 11s on the cheap is one thing….. Keeping it there and running when you have blown your budget for an ET is another.


Oh…. And budget for running Race Fuel ALL the time…. You are looking at $100+ to fill the tank with 13:1.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
My build 11.78 @118mph

quoted from another thread.

My car is full stock body (no mini tubs or mods) with full stock interior.

Ok these are some of the specs on my engine.

Its a standard bore 340. (My original engine)

Cam: Crower Solid Street Roller. #3146 (This is the old 3164 grind from 1988 the new grind with the same # has less lift and duration.)

RPM power range 3200-7200 (redline 7800+)

Grind Lobe Center: 290R/112 degrees
Advertised Duration: intake-290, exhaust-294
Duration at .050": intake-251, exhaust-256
Gross Lift: intake-.550", exhaust-.555"

Holley 800DP

Victor 340 intake.

Heads: professionally ported and flowed original X heads.

Harland Sharp rockers

Hooker Super Comps into 3" mandrel bent exhaust

Extensively reworked/polished stock rods.

Balanced…. And so on…

Basically a precision, high compression (about 12 to 1) and high RPM build. Regularly saw 8000rpm at the track.


And so on, but that is the basic engine stuff.


And then…… We get into all the other crap that you need…. custom built clutch, sub frame connectors, scatter shield, battery relocation, dana 60, electric water pump, electric fans, drag shocks, alignment for track use, SS springs…..
Click to expand...

Wow...I had no idea it could be made to run that quick with the X heads....amazing! Do you know what the weight of the car was?.....mega-gutted out?
 
cudavert

That is my car...... The one in my avater.

Probably a bit above stock weight actually given the Dana 60.

My car was running that with 100% stock body and all trim, 100% stock interior and all trim including the original AM radio (well... Replaced the Inland Shifter with a Hurst and race lap belts other than that the interior was as delivered from the factory).

The only mods were drive train related.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
You will need a cage for low 11s if you run at a track.

Getting low 11s on the cheap is one thing….. Keeping it there and running when you have blown your budget for an ET is another.


Oh…. And budget for running Race Fuel ALL the time…. You are looking at $100+ to fill the tank with 13:1.
Click to expand...


yea I'm hoping to get away w/o a cage if it runs that good, but one of our tracks around here isn't picky, I've seen mid 9 cars with no cages run all day. I'm gona have to bite the bullet on the fat gas or maybe go to E85 but IDK if my holley blue pump will do it.
 
hi,a cage is not required!!! if you run under 11.49, then a roll bar is required, along with a fire jacket/pants, 5 point harness. helmet. get a rule book, then you know.
 
Are you wanting to "make" all these parts work, or are you willing to spend a little to get a nice balanced combo?
 
wigsplitter74 said:
yea I'm hoping to get away w/o a cage if it runs that good, but one of our tracks around here isn't picky, I've seen mid 9 cars with no cages run all day. I'm gona have to bite the bullet on the fat gas or maybe go to E85 but IDK if my holley blue pump will do it.
Click to expand...

Besides I sort of doubt a track would let a 9 second car run without a cage if they did I would never race there. Believe it or not you want a cage or an 8pt bar at least. No such thing as being to safe....
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
cudavert

That is my car...... The one in my avater.

Probably a bit above stock weight actually given the Dana 60.

My car was running that with 100% stock body and all trim, 100% stock interior and all trim including the original AM radio (well... Replaced the Inland Shifter with a Hurst and race lap belts other than that the interior was as delivered from the factory).

The only mods were drive train related.
Click to expand...

hey i want to assume your car was 4 speed...if it was, was it a stock 4 gear, or modified in some way? 18 or 23 spline tranny? and what clutch?

I have to say your setup is pretty damn impressive especially on those tires...nice!
 
flyfish said:
Are you wanting to "make" all these parts work, or are you willing to spend a little to get a nice balanced combo?
Click to expand...

I'm willing to spend a few bucks here and there for things I don't have, but at the same time I need to keep it reasonable. If you mean balanced like balancing the rotating assembly that's been done.

tubbedamx said:
Besides I sort of doubt a track would let a 9 second car run without a cage if they did I would never race there. Believe it or not you want a cage or an 8pt bar at least. No such thing as being to safe....
Click to expand...

I'm not saying it was smart, but a Chitown guy who goes by Boost12 was the one doing it in his twin turbo mustang cobra, being it was a "street car" it didn't have a bar or anything maybe to make it look slower at a glance for an easier hustle. And that particular track is known for very "relaxed" tech inspections, usually you don't even pop the hood lol
 
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