what's your redline?

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srixon4406

TURBO TOAD
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What are u guys and gals shifting your slants at and please list any mods, gear ratio, transmission combos
I have to pull my turbo motor again and I was thinking about just going with the K1 rods and weisco piston setup up to lighten my rotary assembly and get some revs out of the motor
Aaron
 
What are u guys and gals shifting your slants at and please list any mods, gear ratio, transmission combos
I have to pull my turbo motor again and I was thinking about just going with the K1 rods and weisco piston setup up to lighten my rotary assembly and get some revs out of the motor
Aaron

The two really F-A-S-T turbo cars that I know about on this site (Ryan's '66 Valiant and Tom Wolfe's Dart) reportely don't pull very well in excess of 5,200 RPM, but make their CONSIDERABLE power, "through the middle" of the rpm range. I suggested taking our turbo engine to 6,000, and Ryan asked me, "Why do you want to do that?" He was serious.

So, by all means, get the K-1 rods and forged Wiseco pistons, but do it for protection from the ill effects of detonation and high boost pressures, not hi-rpm rev capability. These guys with experience say you won't want or need, to rev your turbo motor that high.

I am taking them at their word, because I am convinced they know what they're talking about. I have no experience with that sort of thing... yet.
Both these motors make around 500 horsepower... impressive to me!

The K-1/Wiseco setup will allow you to run boost pressures of 20-30 lbs. without fear of piston, or rod failure, and your car will fly...

Good move, IMHO!!!! :)

Bill
 
well you can figure that a stock piston/rod bottom end is good for at least 6200...

mark has been bouncing off the 7K mark with his k1/weisco setup...

mine like 6K...
 
Bill thanks u are always on point something let lose in my bottom end when I was doing my boost and pressure test for the first time so the motor has to come out before the cold Michigan winter sits in so ill probably take the time to rebuild the bottom end plus it will give me the opportunity to install a roll cage I picked up a 12 point kit from another member but I haven't decided if I'm going to do a 10 or 12 point cage

Also I'm working on a tight fit turbo header so I probably will sell my manifold, turbo, and down pipe to help fund my project.
Now that I no all my electrical, fuel delivery, and suspension are in working oder I feel like it wasn't a wasted year, I had had hopes of getting a couple passes at the track this year but that's not going to happen.

Kidd the new vehicle is sweet good luck with it and keep us posted

Aaron
 
Bill thanks u are always on point something let lose in my bottom end when I was doing my boost and pressure test for the first time so the motor has to come out before the cold Michigan winter sits in so ill probably take the time to rebuild the bottom end plus it will give me the opportunity to install a roll cage I picked up a 12 point kit from another member but I haven't decided if I'm going to do a 10 or 12 point cage

Also I'm working on a tight fit turbo header so I probably will sell my manifold, turbo, and down pipe to help fund my project.
Now that I no all my electrical, fuel delivery, and suspension are in working oder I feel like it wasn't a wasted year, I had had hopes of getting a couple passes at the track this year but that's not going to happen.

Kidd the new vehicle is sweet good luck with it and keep us posted

Aaron

i would just go with a 10pt as that is good enough for an 8.50...

might go with a 6pt but run the bars to the rear of the trunk... just as strong and less weight...
 
i would just go with a 10pt as that is good enough for an 8.50...

might go with a 6pt but run the bars to the rear of the trunk... just as strong and less weight...

That's what I was thinking too kid I want to try and keep the weight down as much as possible
Aaron
 
Bill thanks u are always on point something let lose in my bottom end when I was doing my boost and pressure test for the first time so the motor has to come out before the cold Michigan winter sits in so ill probably take the time to rebuild the bottom end plus it will give me the opportunity to install a roll cage I picked up a 12 point kit from another member but I haven't decided if I'm going to do a 10 or 12 point cage

Also I'm working on a tight fit turbo header so I probably will sell my manifold, turbo, and down pipe to help fund my project.
Now that I no all my electrical, fuel delivery, and suspension are in working oder I feel like it wasn't a wasted year, I had had hopes of getting a couple passes at the track this year but that's not going to happen.

Kidd the new vehicle is sweet good luck with it and keep us posted

Aaron

I'm really ssorry to hear about the trouble you're having with the reciprocating assembly; that's a bummer! Let us know what happened, and what it took to fix it, please. Also, I'd really appreciate it if you coulds send some pictures to this site, of your NEW design header, when you get it finished. I'm very much interested in that.

Good luck with your project. Here are a couple of pictures of a pre-fabricated roll bar that Freddie bought and installed in our car. It was disappointingly heavy, but it is what it is...

Bill
 

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hey bill i like the cage!

to the OP here is what i was talking about... make a u cut in the package tray to allow the bar to reach farther into the trunk on the rails... it will make the car stiffer...

besides... when you make the divider plate it will cover up the cuts in the package tray!
 

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I'm really ssorry to hear about the trouble you're having with the reciprocating assembly; that's a bummer! Let us know what happened, and what it took to fix it, please. Also, I'd really appreciate it if you coulds send some pictures to this site, of your NEW design header, when you get it finished. I'm very much interested in that.

Good luck with your project. Here are a couple of pictures of a pre-fabricated roll bar that Freddie bought and installed in our car. It was disappointingly heavy, but it is what it is...

Bill

Bill it is what it is there ain't much I can do I should just did a fresh rebuild from the beginning but I live and learn.
I'll be posting some picks of the header on my turbo build thread
Aaron
 
I thought I read the 170 Hyper-pack test mule would do 8500, but that is a short rod motor, Good internals are key to big R's but The head will hold you back. Turbo motors dont need R's, they work up to about 5k, and like low rear gears too.
 
I used to bee able to go to 6800.....400 runs later it starts to lay down at about 6600.Think I might have to freshen it up.Going to spray and hope first.Mark
 
I thought I read the 170 Hyper-pack test mule would do 8500, but that is a short rod motor, Good internals are key to big R's but The head will hold you back. Turbo motors dont need R's, they work up to about 5k, and like low rear gears too.


I was at the Indy Nationals in 1961 or '62, and one of the original Ramchargers (Pete McNichol, I believe) was there with a lightweight '40 Willys coupe with a 170 /6 in it. That thing, I GAYROANTEE was taching 8,500!!! Sounded like a swarm of angry bees.... Ran 14 flat at 100 mph... Easily won his class...

The stroke on that 170, being only 3-1/8", made that high rpm possible with no repercussions...
 
Yea Bill.that was my thought also.Think the beehives have lost some of there sting.Going to run it as is and spray it trying for 4 more records.Then will pull it down and freshen it and o ring the block for a copper head gasket.I am at 12.5 compression with the pistons .008 down in the holes.Will have .010 taken off the block and run a .020 copper gasket.My gasket now is .040 I believe.Will have to re notch the pistons some more.Would really like 13.5 compression but dont think that will get me there.Gotta have someone do the math for me.Guzzi Mark
 
Yea Bill.that was my thought also.Think the beehives have lost some of there sting.Going to run it as is and spray it trying for 4 more records.Then will pull it down and freshen it and o ring the block for a copper head gasket.I am at 12.5 compression with the pistons .008 down in the holes.Will have .010 taken off the block and run a .020 copper gasket.My gasket now is .040 I believe.Will have to re notch the pistons some more.Would really like 13.5 compression but dont think that will get me there.Gotta have someone do the math for me.Guzzi Mark

mark... i think you should be looking at 14:1 at least... you'll run around 118 but why leave some on the table if your gonna go to all that work...

here is a link for calculating your static compression

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp
 
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