I better go down and pick 1 or 2 up. Fits both of my cars.
Where to buy correct alternator for a 1969 340 swinger non a/c car
- Thread starter dbphemi
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And as I posted above, I've gone through a number of SMP VR-128. They don't hold up to the higher field currents which were normal for revised square backs, and now are all to common with run of the mill rebuilds in general.
If you go looking for new replacement rotors on-line, I think you'll find the same as I did. The selection is very limited. There may be wholesale sources I am not aware, but I beleive what is happening is this. Most 'rebuilders' just buy new parts that come from Transpo WaiWei. That's the rotor that gets used. Nowadays most put in new rotors regardless of whethe the old one was any good. This is faster, cheaper and lets them describe it as 'fully refurbished' or similar. They don't do their own winding and certainly don't care about matching stator and rotors. If they test, they spin it to high rpm and base the 'rating' on the maximum amperage they can squeeze out of it. Occassionally one still gets a parts store alternator that has a full test sheet with it. These only reinforce my conclusions.
The above is my conclusions based on my experiences and testing. They are by their nature opinions. I have posted some of my measurements earlier in this thread because I don't consider any of this SSS. Other people with different experiences and backgrounds may come to different conclusions.
And in general they may be. I haven't been able to verify this through testing or test reports.
My main point in this thread is that the high field current draw can cause problems in three ways:
1. May cause the regulators difficulty in controlling the field.
2. Higher current through the ignition and field circuit and regulator is more likely to heat and damage things.
3. Higher field current through small wiring and so-so connections will cause greater voltage drop between alternator output and the regulator.
But, as always we don't know how the O'Reilly rating compares to the Chrysler ratings.
In fact we dont' even know how Chrysler determined their ratings. It might be like Holley's CFM ratings. When we say a 4777 is a 650 or a 3310-1 is a 780 those are approximations for marketing purposes. (yes at least with Holley carbs we know what those ratings are based on for both 2bbls and 4bbls)
1969 Dealer Book shows the factory offered alternators with 3 ratings for Darts (ignoring fleet sales etc)
So the factory supplied 30, 37, and 46 amp alterternators.
The 1969 shop manual provides one test point, which they tell us is not the rating.
At 1250 rpm, and 15 Volts, the alternators can produce enough power to do the following:
30 amp rating should produce 23 to 29 amps.
37 amp rating should produce 31.5 to 37.5 amps.
46 amp rating should produce 38 to 44 amps.
Presumable at higher rpm, they all can produce more power if needed.
How much power can they produce at say 650 rpm, 14 Volts is unknown.
I would love to test that and get some answers but all the pieces haven't come together for me to do that.
Nor have I found anything published for original Chrysler alternators.
We know all alternators are fairly inefficient at low rpm, and get better with increasing rpm.
This came with a rebuilt revised squareback.
The output test was done at 13.2 Volts so we can't compare with the shop manual. Clever.
Field current draw is 6.8 amps. Well out of the acceptable range in the shop manual specs for '69, but presumably in range for whatever years revised squarebacks were produced.
Some other things to be aware of.
Chrysler didn't offer a 30 amp replacment alternator in 1969.
My guess is that the cost savings for manufacturing thousands of alternators with less copper wire only made sense for production. When it came to stocking replacement parts, it made sense to have less inventory and the customer was going to pay for the replacement regardless.
Chrysler didn't offer a 30 amp replacment alternator in 1969.
My guess is that the cost savings for manufacturing thousands of alternators with less copper wire only made sense for production. When it came to stocking replacement parts, it made sense to have less inventory and the customer was going to pay for the replacement regardless.
It doesn’t have to be so complicated.
Autozone still offers round back alternators in single/dual pulleys in various amperage, single wire, limited lifetime warranty.
I ran a DL7001 (60 amp) for years on my 67 A100 (that called for a 46amp) with a new electronic replacement VR. All wiring in my van is original, no meltdowns etc.
Grab a DL7014 (50amp) single groove pulley if you’re concerned about too much amperage. Paint the pulley black, or pull it and install an oem one. Done.
Simple as that.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ralast-alternator-dl7014/333476_0_0?rrec=true
Autozone still offers round back alternators in single/dual pulleys in various amperage, single wire, limited lifetime warranty.
I ran a DL7001 (60 amp) for years on my 67 A100 (that called for a 46amp) with a new electronic replacement VR. All wiring in my van is original, no meltdowns etc.
Grab a DL7014 (50amp) single groove pulley if you’re concerned about too much amperage. Paint the pulley black, or pull it and install an oem one. Done.
Simple as that.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ralast-alternator-dl7014/333476_0_0?rrec=true
Interesting, that alternator does not fit my 70 318. Must be the "plug clocking position @ 6:00 position"
Damn I was wrong. I must have looked up one for my 70. I didn't find the DL7014 at Autozone that 12many found and the R111598A that O reillys has listed that Rusty found. I was looking for something lower amp than 55. Damn, I feel bad for the wild goose chase.
Here is the place that I use to get mine rebuilt... They make their own windings in house and are local to me in Bridgeview, IL...
P&G Keene Electrical Rebuilders LLC
They can rebuild them for your choice of amperage, you just specify which one that you want... They once told me that the higher amp alternaters do not put out as much at idle as the lower amp ones but ramp up with RPM.
For a 69 non-AC car you want the single filed roundback alternator with a single groove pulley on it for the belt grooves to line up properly when you use the correct factory alternator brackets.
I may have a spare alternator laying around that can be used for a core...
slantsixdan
=..=
Sure, if you want so-called "remanufactured" garbage with a lifetime warranty that means you get to spend your lifetime exchanging dead parts until you finally give up, and if you're gullible enough to trust that when they say "55 amp" that's what you're getting.
I've had one on my car for over two years with no complaints. The key it seems with OReilly at least, is don't get the NEW unit and don't get the cheapest reman. Get the highest cost reman.
It's really worthless now. They reworded it so the one you get is warranted for it's life. When it fails, you get another one at no charge and that's the end of your warranty. The next one is on you.At my age, a lifetime warranty doesn't mean as much as it used to!
When you get one of those lifetime warranty “so-called” garbage parts store remanufactured alternators or starters and it works with longevity like it should boy it sure is sweet! Sucks that some have problems. I haven’t, ever. Strange
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