Where to buy Heads

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Why do you think that eddy heads would be best for you.As you can save more money and get more from a iron head!You need to state your combo and the RPM range you intend to run in and your driving style and the type of cam you intend to run to pick the head and runner you need for your motor.BJR,has heads in stock,and the style you might need,if you put up for us your motor build you are doing,and if its for the street or strip.

BJ Racing 1-770-955-0659

Mrmopartech
 
Mrmopartech said:
Why do you think that eddy heads would be best for you.As you can save more money and get more from a iron head!You need to state your combo and the RPM range you intend to run in and your driving style and the type of cam you intend to run to pick the head and runner you need for your motor.BJR,has heads in stock,and the style you might need,if you put up for us your motor build you are doing,and if its for the street or strip.

BJ Racing 1-770-955-0659

Mrmopartech
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GEESH, I have asked on other forums and all anyone ever tells me is get eddy heads..................everyone (except you) says iron heads suck...........so here goes

68 Dart GT
74 440 truck block
10/10 ground factory steel crank
reconditioned 6 pack rods w/arp wav-locs
30 over KB hyper pistons with .140 quench dome
cam not chosen yet
750 Mighty Demon carb
MSD ignition
have a fairly high stall converter that I am gonna run w/ a 727 and 3.91 sure grip
intake not chosen

I have a set of 346 casting heads I could have built but there are always decent BB iron heads on ebay I could buy too already built and ported for around 6 bills.
Parts I still need to buy are cam/lifters, timing set, headers/mounts (I'm going with shumacher on this 750.00), intake, dizzy, wires, trans kit (already have reverse manual Valve body and deep pan), valve covers, and misc. plugs, oil, and other small stuff. If I have enough I am thinking of roller rockers and possibly gear drive????????????

I want a bad *** street car I can take to the track and I have had very potent BB's in the past with low gears and big cams on the street before to PLAY with and take to shows and I love them........
 
Well for the money that you'll spend on Eddy's I can build a set that will do the same or better and in most cases for less.


BJR Racing
 
The eddy heads are decent ball park head,and claim to flow [email protected] in gods name are you going to run a 600 lift cam in your car? What is a resonable cam for you to drive on the street and track.First question,give a percentage of street use and track use,80/20% split,if so,you have a street car that you take to the track a few times a summer and have a blast.The secret is having a cam and head to work together,not having a cam to big so you need a pro stock port,or a towing port that is the size of dime.If you check the spec of the flow at .500 lift,and if you use a cam of the .525 range with proper duration,you will flow better with a well done set of 452 heads and save a s#*t load of cash as well.Bigger is not all ways better,a head with stock valve size and great velocity and flow will out perform a head with big valves and have better alround performance through out the entire rpm range.Your rpm range is set by some factors,port flow,intake,carb,rotating weight of the bottom end,etc.Your 6 pack rods,the heaviest rods out there,you can shed tons of rotating weight by using a normal rod.Your max rpm,will be around 5500-6000rpm,and the 3.91 gears are alright if you have 28 inch or higher tires and good traction,any thing smaller,you will be the smoke show king,and the local tire companies best customer.If you are using a 440,and are going to cruise the car on the highway alot,you going to find a well tune iron head with bowl and port work will be more benaficial to you in the end.Also,the eddys head loses 1.5 compression pionts as compared to the iron head due to the alley head sucking out all the thermal heat from the comustion,that is why the camber is smaller than the iron head.Do your self a favout,call bobby and spend the half hour and talk,just talk,and learn why and be wiser than all the others and reap the power from the iron head,all the super stock cars can,t be wrong if they run in the 9s,10s,11s.Mrmopartech
 
Sorry ronneysplymouth, I got to agree with the guys. There's a pile of hipe going around about the Eddy heads and then problems with head gaskets because of the different expansion rates of aluminum and cast iron, problems with the angled spark plugs limiting whos headers you can run. I'm running a set of ported 902's on my 70 383 with a 509" lift cam and single plane manifold and couldn't be happier. The end all be all is unless you're planning to race that bad boy every weekend save some money and get a good set of ported iron heads for the 440. :evil2:

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OK, I will run iron heads, just up to this point all anyone would suggest is eddy eddy eddies................I have the 346 castings already and I can get them built with a mild port job for around 6-700 bucks and that works better for me anyways..........could not afford much more than that anyways.................Thanks guys for the input.

Oh yeah the rods are out of a 74 440 truck motor and it was suggested to me they were the same as six pack rods????????? what should the casting numbers be?????
 
On a small block I might see the arguement for aluminum over iron for flow and weight purposes (I have eddys on a 360) but on a brute of a 440 I'd spend $75 for a dyno and find the power through a real intensive tune on iron heads instead of spending $1200 + for a similar power gain. hope you see my point.
 
ronnysplymouth said:
Hey Demon seed, can you lay out your complete combo?

Is there a thread on here about combos for 440 a bodies?
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Yea sure, 71 Demon with a 70 383, ported 902 heads with hardened seats, 750 DP Speed Demon, Weiand single plane team G, 1" 4 hole carb spacer, 509" lift 292 duration MP cam, stock rockers, crane springs and locks, 10-1 comp, stock rods and crank, MP orange box ignition and dist., ARP head bolts, High volume oil pump, milodon windage tray, Schumacher headers engine mounts and torque rod, 2 1/2" crossover exhaust with Dynomax mufflers, mini starter, 727 with shift kit and 3000 stall converter, B+M quick silver, 8 3/4 suregrip with 3.91 gears. Most importantly are the sub frame connectors and pinion snubber.

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I'm surprised this hasnt come up yet in this post...You cant run Edelbrocks or Indys with Quench dome pistons. And, when you're using them, it's very important that the head chambers and piston domes be set up properly. Without it, the quench dome can promote detonation. I'm doing one of these right now. I'm running 452 heads, but they have to be carefully fit to the shortblock. There has to be between .035-.040" clearance between the dome top, and the polished chamber roof. (yes, chambers should be polished...) As such, I had to have the crank index corrected and the block square decked to blueprint height. (that way, the quench dome stops in the same spot for every cylinder. Once the valve job is done, I'll get the heads back disassembled, polish the chambers, do the port work, and clay the tops of every dome and chamber, to see what i need to do in terms of head gasket and milling to get the .040 I want. I'm pretty sure this is why these piston dessigns are not "top of the sales list". You need flat tops, or domes designed for the new aluminum heads, or you'll need to trim the domes and spark plug reliefs on std domed pistons to run angle plug heads like Edelbrocks, Indys, or Bulldogs.
 
The quench domes would work with the open chambered Eddys wouldnt they.

If your on a budget I would spen most of it on the short block. Its much easier to upgrade heads, cam and intake leter then pistons rods and balancing.
 
Sorry Adam, you're right. Quench domes will. They will still need to be fitted tho. You can buy them with domes of .070 to .140+" tall. A lot depends on the choice of pistons. I used the .070 high, because I figured I'll be milling the deck and heads a little, and I didnt want to mock up a piston, and have top dismount it to have the piston dome milled. A std dome piston used with the 88cc Edelbrocks will need the spark plug relief modified.
 
The A12 package connecting rods have a part number of 1851535 for the 69 1/2 year.The other rod is 2951908 for the 70-74 440 six pack.These rods are super heavy.Mrmopartech
 
went .6 quicker with the eddy's over ported 452's and have had no problems with them. Now I want to take them back off and put the 452' back on.
 
66dartman said:
went .6 quicker with the eddy's over ported 452's and have had no problems with them. Now I want to take them back off and put the 452' back on.
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why? if the eddys were no problem and were quicker? will have to check the number on the rods....................Dropping heads off tuesday for machining
 
Actually, from what I understand, BJR is very reasonable compared to some others. Shipping may be a little, but it's prob worth calling him. Personally, I wouldnt live in fear of running aluminum heads. They dont leak, they are no more prone to head gasket failures than iron, they are lighter, they have that "OOohh, AAAhhh" at the cruise nights, they have modern fast burn chambers, and depending on the porting of you iron, they will make more power. There are sometimes issues with coolant seepage when MLS (Multi Layered Steel) gaskets are used. That's because the gaskets are made to seal after they are heated. The sealant is activated by engine heat. Most times, after cam break in, there is no seepage. Also, what many guys dont consider, are deck/head surface finish, and retorquing the head bolts/studs. Surface finish left by a grinder may be too rough for some types of gaskets to seal with the different expansion rates of iron and aluminum. The gasket surfaces should be milled (with cutters) not ground. Retorquing is important in most high performance engines, regardless of head material or of gasket type/material. It's imperative when running aluminum, or MLS gaskets. I do it at the same time inner valve springs are added. Any bolts into aluminum (intake, headers, brackets, whatever) should have anti-seize or thread sealer depending to prevent the threads from galling. I use liquid teflon on the intake, antiseize on the headers, valve covers, accessories.
 
LOL!!!!!!! I changed nothing else on the mild 440 and the eddy's worked for my buddies 440 chally, and it gets driven a lot.
 
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