Where to pick up power

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RogerRamRod

RogerRamRod

The Older I Get, The Faster I Was
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If I move my battery to the trunk, does it matter where along the charge wire I pick up power for relays, ignition, fuel injection, etc. since the battery and alternator is a parallel connection?
As always, thanks for the info.
 
I ask because I just can't see needing to run more wires from the trunk back to the engine when there is already power up there.
Unless there is something I'm just not catching onto such as alternator noise or something.
 
RogerRamRod said:
If I move my battery to the trunk, does it matter where along the charge wire I pick up power for relays, ignition, fuel injection, etc. since the battery and alternator is a parallel connection?
As always, thanks for the info.
Click to expand...
It doesn't but just make sure that the circuit you create is fused.
 
Engine noise in the harness that you hear in the radio is from where rca's are run with or really close to a main hot wire. I wouldn't worry with that unless you have amplified sound system. Otherwise run 0 gauge with a fuse and call it good. Moved mine to the trunk with monster cable. No issues and I'm running a four channel amp as well. I just run new wires from alternator to the battery, then battery to switch and fuse block. Super simple
 
Not running a stereo, was just wondering about anything interfering with the electronics of ignition or FI.
Thank you.
 
Sorry for late reply, it does make a difference. The closer to battery, the more filtered the voltage is.

One way to improve feed from alternator, is to add a huge capacitor there, a car audio capacitor.
 
I pulled power off the "starter relay" power stud, and distributed it thru relays triggered by the ignition switch and fused as necessary.I've had no trouble with this since 1999; no radio,
 
AJ/FormS said:
I pulled power off the "starter relay" power stud, and distributed it thru relays triggered by the ignition switch and fused as necessary.I've had no trouble with this since 1999; no radio,
Click to expand...
The starter relay stud is close to battery, but it is less so when battery is in trunk, the OP pondering that.. "Close" involves small inductance and resistance. :) The starter stud has a significant transient when the starter solenoid releases. A radio is fairly tolerant, ECUs, results may vary depending on experience of hardware designer. Use of a good scope reveals nasty transients. Even modern cars have transients with load dump up to 6OV. The several feet of cable placing battery in trunk, presents issues.
 
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