Which Brake Booster?

[Jan]

Hi,

my old brake booster is defect. i need a new one. where can i find one that fit to my car? my car is a 1967 dodge dart.
does somebody have a link?

this is my defect one:



Jan

 

[krazykuda]

Try the ram man. He's an expert in Mopar brakes and rebuilds & sells them. Give him a call and see if he can help...

He's helped me out a few times and I've learned alot from him...

817.691.5996

The Ram Man
7200 Winters St.
Fort Worth, TX 76120


http://www.theramman.com/

 

[65 Dartman]

If the booster is bad, why not send it to Booster Dewey in IIRC Oregon. He'll rebuild it and if desired restore the finish to original.

Here's the one he did for me:

 

[Jan]

The problem is that i live in germany
It is very expensive to send it in the united states and back.

Jan

 

[65 Dartman]

Ooops! I just saw your country flag! Yes postage can be brutal back and forth. If you can find a later working booster, that will still work if you use your brackets between the firewall and booster. Even B and and most C bodies will work. You might also try a booster from a late model FWD car. I think there's a member here who is using a booster and master cylinder from a late model Plymouth Breeze on his Dart.

 

[Bad Sport]

How about just do away with it and go manual.

 

[BillGrissom]

Looks like you have the Midland-Ross type w/ a V-band clamp, which is real easy to take apart. If you could get a new internal rubber diaphragm from Booster Dewey or such, postage shouldn't be too bad. There is also a smaller inlet valve that can go bad. I have seen on ebay. I expect that eventually somebody will start producing the internal parts to rebuild these. But must be cheap since you can buy a new booster/MC/brackets on ebay for $138.

 

[Jan]

Looks like you have the Midland-Ross type w/ a V-band clamp, which is real easy to take apart. If you could get a new internal rubber diaphragm from Booster Dewey or such, postage shouldn't be too bad. There is also a smaller inlet valve that can go bad. I have seen on ebay. I expect that eventually somebody will start producing the internal parts to rebuild these. But must be cheap since you can buy a new booster/MC/brackets on ebay for $138.

i must ask my garage to repair my booster. the price for the booster is 138$? do you have a link?

maybe this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-8-Dual-Diaphram-POWER-Brake-Booster-/350818995285

Jan

 

[barracudadave67]

Just be aware that their are 2 different size "Midland-Ross" Boosters. They are also fairly hard to find as a rebuilt unit, and to get parts for. Their is a 6 1/2 in, and a 7 in, or 7 in , and 7 1/2 in. I can't remember right now. The parts are the same, except for the 2 main diaphrams, one of which is metal and rubber, and the other, that is all rubber. the metal/rubber one is the one that usually cracks. These are the parts that are different in diameter.

You do not have to disconnect, or take all the brackets off, just disconnnect the rod on the upper bell crank, with cotter pin, then remove the 4 bolts/nuts from the master cylinder, in front of the booster, making sure your master cylinder stays level, ( you do not want fluid leakage) , then remove the 4 bolts/nuts holding the booster to the bracket, the booster is now loose. Get a good tube of "Silicone Grease". You will need it to reassemble the new parts. The hardest part of the rebuild was getting it back together, with no vacuum leeks. I used a dead blow hammer on the V band, and also vacuum from another car, as you tighten the V band bolt and nut, (hand vacuum pump was worthless). Remember to use the silicone grease, on all the parts, at asembley. After asembly bolt it back in. I did not have to do any adjusting, as i didn't change any adjustments.

Heres a pic of mine after I reinstalled it, all cleaned up and painted silver. On the left top is the only rod to disconnect, it has the cotter pin in it.


I got my rebuild parts from "Harmon Classic Brakes", in California, 1-818-290-3738, or harmonclassicbrakes.com Very help full.

barracudadave67

 

[Jan]

thanks for the infos
what kind of booster do i have? ist this a midland brake booster?

Jan

 

[RedFish]

Certainly looks to be Midland-Ross dual diaphragm, is correct for 67 power brakes.
If I were in your shoes I would consider only these options.
Find the parts required to rebuild it myself or find a local rebuilder to do it for me.
Change to manual brake master cylinder only.
Majority of performance camshafts wont produce enough vacuum to support power booster anyway. Consider that only if you're considering a performance build.
Good luck.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I swapped out the dual diaphragm unit for a later model Dart single diaphragm unit. It was a bolt in deal, with just a minor pushrod adjustment. My car has a small block engine.

 

[BillGrissom]

maybe this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-8-Dual-Diaphram-POWER-Brake-Booster-/350818995285
Jan

That one would work, but not the one I saw several times. It was <$140 (a bit more w/ shipping to Europe!). It also appeared to be a single diaphragm type since more pancake w/ larger diameter. There used to be a Mopar one that was an obvious GM booster (round threaded rod) w/ a Mopar adapter & lever, but that was ~$170. The latest one has a flat output rod and looks more purpose-built for Mopar, but perhaps not exactly factory-correct. It looked like one I took off a 1974 slant.

 

[Jan]

does somebody have tested the brake booster from MPBrakes? i have an offer for this one.

Jan