Sometimes some of the best sources to find information is from someone that has newly learned the stuff themselves. They tend not to leave out as many details as some of the guys that know stuff like the back of their hand. - Probably because it was a bigger struggle to get those things accomplished.
As an added plus guys that are going through projects like yours for the first time run into more pitfalls. Everybody likes to read about the oopses. It lets us know what to look out for. - And it keeps us from getting discouraged when we find ourselves banging our heads on the projects we're working on.
Even if the slanty turns out to be a turd (and I doubt it will), it will be one heck of an impressive one regardless.:thumrigh::thumrigh::thumrigh:
There is an impressive, pretty comprehensive website called "Hangar 18" that features lots of photos and how-to text regarding modifying your own Holley 4bbl or 2bbl. for boost.
When I built my blown 360, way back in 2006, I used a place called "The Carb Shop," in Ontario, California. For about $900 that they did all the mods and ran it on an in-shop dyno to verify the correct mixture under 15 pounds of boost. It worked well. But there are several mods to do, and getting it done professionally isn't cheap.
It would be cheaper, of course, for A 2300-SERIES 2BBL (half of a 4BBL.)
500cfm Holley.
When we built our slant six motor, we also bought a F.A.S.T.-brand data-logging, wideband. mixture monitor that has an O-2 sensor, air-fuel ratio meter that would aid in achieving the correct mixture under both boost and cruise situations; a tricky procedure. Failure to get it right can result in detonation under boost, which can and WILL destroy your engine in a heartbeat. You can see the vital importance in getting this right... and, doing so is well-nigh impossible without an O-2 sensor.
Nobody told us (or, maybe we didn't read the instructions??) that lead in the fuel will pretty quickly ruin an O-2 sensor to the point that it is very inaccurate. So, we went merrily along testing our carb modifications using av gas, which is heavily leaded, thereby, UNKNOWINGLY ruining our O-2 sensor and giving us incorrect mixture readings. A new O-2 sensor was ordered and installed, ($91.00) and we continued testing, this time on unleaded fuel.
Just a word to the wise...
My feeling is, that by the time you have bought a meter, a carb, and all the parts necessary to modify your own carb, you'd be money ahead (if, your time is worth anything at all to you, because all this testing/modifying is a time-consuming endeavor) to just pay the freight and buy a carb from someone who does this for a living and is likely to get it right the first time.
Getting it wrong can be VERY expensive....
More, later...:happy1:
