Wire Alt to batt

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Backally

Backally

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70 Duster. Stock wiring in good condition, only add on will be a fuel pump/Holley Sniper. Saw a thread discussing adding a connection from the alternator directly to the batt. I understand this is to reduce the load on the bulkhead connector and under dash wires. Also see the reason to have fuses on the line. What are the cons of adding this connection? What does the ampmeter read, would it indicate a low/overvoltage condition or is it now just a decoration? 3 wire alternator, connection would come off the black wire?
 
Ammeter won't read. Only con I'm aware of is install some sort of fuse link/ fuse to protect it, as this bypasses the original fuse link. There's an old thread on DIY converting your ammeter to a voltmeter

Read through all of this, it covers several cluster types


Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?
ammeter-to-voltmeter-who-does-it.119480
 
Leave all the OEM wiring hooked up and the fusible link is in the system. It's when people do the mad instructions that a new fusible link is required.

Run the wire from alt charge stud to starter relay. I build these all the time in 6 and 8 gauge varieties with or without a fusible link.
 
crackedback said:
Leave all the OEM wiring hooked up and the fusible link is in the system. It's when people do the mad instructions that a new fusible link is required.

Run the wire from alt charge stud to starter relay. I build these all the time in 6 and 8 gauge varieties with or without a fusible link.
Click to expand...

If the alternator shorts, and they do, and have, there will be no protection unless you add a second one in the added wire. That is why
 
Ummmm

I build these all the time in 6 and 8 gauge varieties with or without a fusible link.
Click to expand...

Yeah put some sort of protection in the charge wire is a good suggestion.

My comment has to do with their approach on the red/black wires and a FL at the starter relay.

Does the OEM red wire have a link? :)
 
You askin me Rob? The OEM red, yes. The original fuse should have protected the alternator but it "didn't always" LOL. In about 72 some girl a-holed my 70RR and I had a loaner Valient slant, and one morning at the base, I had started it up to warm up. It DOES get cold in San Diego once in awhile LOL. Anyhow a diode had fallen out!!!! and stopped the alternator. When I investigated, it moved, and shorted. I got to stand there and watch the whole damn harness go fzzz...sssiiiittt. sssshshshshshhss s SHITXXXXxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.............!!!! AND THEN POP THE LINK LOL

Called the dealer (in National City) and told them to send a wrecker and a different loaner car. They sent the "immigrant" with a pickup and some booster cables. LMAO

Hope you doin OK. I'm workin 4 days a week at 69!!!
 
Ok, converting to voltmeter isn’t in the cards this winter. However, the Holley Sniper shows battery volts on its display. If I run the fused wire from the alt to battery would you guys feel comfortable with everything else? No other changes needed immediately for this to work safely? changing the ampmeter to voltmeter could be on next winters project list.

Thanks for the replies, learning as I go.
 
I would AT LEAST pull your bulkhead connector apart and inspect and repair. I often refer to the MAD article NOT because of the bypass specifics, but at least that it documents how and why these get damaged, and some illustrations showing the bulkhead connector

AND the simplified diagram on their page shows a VERY good overview of why, what, etc

One of the more rare problems is the "welded splice" In my lifetime, and at least one, maybe two on this board, "I" have either discovered or been made aware of about a dozen cases that I know of where the welded splice came apart. Be aware of that

The very first bad welded splice I troubleshot and fixed was in about 1970--1972, in a friend's 68 RR. His ammeter was going nuts. I had the entire dash/ cluster/ harness torn apart and strung out in his apartment parking lot, LOL. He thought I was nuts, I was wondering, myself.
 
I have had the bulkhead connector apart, replaced any that looked remotely bad, cleaned both male and female connectors on the rest. Have also cleaned much of the under dash connections up. Under dash actually looked pretty good. The fusable link looked damaged, that has been replaced. Although the present connection by the steering column is in good shape, I may be replacing that with a weather pack piece, got that question posed on another thread.

Again thanks.
 
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