Wiring Suggestion/Help

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Mopar Virgin

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On our '68 Bcuda Convertible build, we swapped an older 225 with a point ditributor to a '74 with an electronic distributor. Now we've realized the new brand new wiring harness from Classic Industries for the '68 doesn't work for this and looking for anyone's experience/suggestion whether we can mix-and-match or should should splice? Either way, what other electrical goodies might we need for this regardless of the wiring path we use?
 
Mopar Virgin said:
On our '68 Bcuda Convertible build, we swapped an older 225 with a point ditributor to a '74 with an electronic distributor. Now we've realized the new brand new wiring harness from Classic Industries for the '68 doesn't work for this and looking for anyone's experience/suggestion whether we can mix-and-match or should should splice? Either way, what other electrical goodies might we need for this regardless of the wiring path we use?
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Does classic have the Electronic ignition pigtail that you can add to the 68 harness?
 
WV64Signet said:
Does classic have the Electronic ignition pigtail that you can add to the 68 harness?
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Don't know, and not sure a rep/tech would know if mixing them with their plug-in connectors would align across mixed years, so thought someone at FABO would have faced this and have a definitive answer/solution rather than rolling-the-dice. Already dealing with radiator issues associated to adding aftermarket AC that required a special compressor bracket that conflicts with the mechanical fan shroud that forced buy an electrical fan. Been through 4 radiator/fans trying to get a proper fit given the bracket/compressor only leave 4.5" of space. Everything is a domino effect it seems.
 
Mopar Virgin said:
Don't know, and not sure a rep/tech would know if mixing them with their plug-in connectors would align across mixed years, so thought someone at FABO would have faced this and have a definitive answer/solution rather than rolling-the-dice. Already dealing with radiator issues associated to adding aftermarket AC that required a special compressor bracket that conflicts with the mechanical fan shroud that forced buy an electrical fan. Been through 4 radiator/fans trying to get a proper fit given the bracket/compressor only leave 4.5" of space. Everything is a domino effect it seems.
Click to expand...
Welcome to the world of hard lessons.
I would do whatever is neccessory to avoid adding an electric fan. If that means not using that A/C package, so be it.
The A/C electric draw alone is enough to deal with properly.
Adding an ECU is pretty easy, although the better option IMO is to use the distributor from the old motor unless it was a California car.
I would also use all the '68 pieces (intake etc) if there is EGR on the '74. There's no reason to torture yourselves with that stuff. The fuel milage and throttle response on my '68 was a warld apart from the '74 and '75 I had. OSAC in particular is a throttle response killer.
 
Mattax said:
Adding an ECU is pretty easy,
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Piggyback at the ballast resistor on the ignition run side. (Dark Blue J2 wire)
1709393128167.png

That's power for ECU and connects to the top position of the ECU connector.
1709393602896.png


Then a ring terminal is needed on the wire from the ECU connector that will connect the coil negative to ground when the ECU is triggered by the pulse from the distributor.
That's about it.
Make sure the ECU bousing is grounded to the sheetmetal.
For a long time, Mopar recommended using a solid state voltage regulator when converting to ECU.
These days many replacement regulators (such as the one sold by FBO on ebay) are transistorized so that allows you to keep field circuit wiring as it is.
 
Mattax said:
Piggyback at the ballast resistor on the ignition run side. (Dark Blue J2 wire)
View attachment 1716215240
That's power for ECU and connects to the top position of the ECU connector.
View attachment 1716215242

Then a ring terminal is needed on the wire from the ECU connector that will connect the coil negative to ground when the ECU is triggered by the pulse from the distributor.
That's about it.
Make sure the ECU bousing is grounded to the sheetmetal.
For a long time, Mopar recommended using a solid state voltage regulator when converting to ECU.
These days many replacement regulators (such as the one sold by FBO on ebay) are transistorized so that allows you to keep field circuit wiring as it is.
Click to expand...
First of all, thank for providing all the information. Sadly, I am 100% electrically illiterate but the shop doing the build isn't and my elctrical engineer neighbor is highly proficient, though I can never understand him when he talks electrical stuff. I'll inquire about this things over the next two days. Learned that the '74 slant 6 from the Duster did have AC on it, so I need to call the guy I bought it from to see if he still has the orignal compressor and bracket. If he does, then my hope is that we can use that to eliminate my aftermarket issue there and use the mechanical fan with a standard radiator. Then the question is whether we can/should go back to non-electic ignition. This car will be driven a fair amount (e.g. not just car events), so looking to accomplish a restomod to it. Thanks again and keep the advice and experiences comin'
 
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