Won't rev!

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ECC Garage

ECC Garage

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Hope someone can help, my 75 Hang 10 starts and ticks over fine but when you hit the throttle she cuts out. we fitted a spark test plug and can actually see as it revs passed about 2000 rpm the spark cuts off! we have fitted a new dizzy and electronic control box.
 
A little more info would help paint the picture.
Engine?
Stock Ignition?
Carb or fuel injection?
Automatic or manual?
 
halifaxhops said:
Make sure you have the right ohm ballast resistor in there.
Click to expand...
There may be the problem, we were struggling to get her to run at when an electrician friend said its not necessary so took it out!!!! we also installed an aftermarket distributor complete and a new ECU
do you know what ohm it should be?
 
Check your FSM also for the proper recommended. These are checked warm.
ECUApplication.jpg
ecu III.png
ecu chart 2.png
 
Joey4speed said:
A little more info would help paint the picture.
Engine?
Stock Ignition?
Carb or fuel injection?
Automatic or manual?
Click to expand...
not sure its the original 318 engine, I think it was transferred from a Van? it came with a Spreadbore carb with bits missing, so I have put a 600 com Holly (I also have a new Edlebrook Carb which we have put on to prove its not that|) it has a Torqflight box and B&M Shifter, rear axle is upgraded I believe with single leaf spring and adjustable front suspension. otherwise she is a genuine Hang 10 and soon to have her livery back on after repaint
 
Alo if you know you have a good ecu and a known good pickup in the dist, check for splices that are how do I say this just have a few strands of wire or bad that can give you the wanted voltage but not the amperage needed to run it.
 
Well, only usable info is about your electrician "friend". Tell him to keep his mitts off until he learns Mopar.
ECC Garage said:
There may be the problem, we were struggling to get her to run at when an electrician friend said its not necessary so took it out!!!! we also installed an aftermarket distributor complete and a new ECU
do you know what ohm it should be?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
ECC Garage said:
we also installed an aftermarket distributor complete and a new ECU
do you know what ohm it should be?
Click to expand...

Did either of these suppliers mention anything about a ballast resistor. We still don't know 'what' distributor or ECU.

When I went with a different coil the manufacturer listed what Ohm ballast to use.
 
I know 95% of the parts store single ballast are 1 ohm, testing different ECU's it makes a difference having them mated right. Not seriously but makes a difference. Also most ECU set ups draw 2 amps running 4 amps not running power on roughly.
 
A couple of my observations;
>When the coil ballast resistor is cold, a decent coil can run 12 or more volts for long periods of time..
>A Mopar Dual ballast Ecu will run on battery voltage for a while no problem

Since it seems to be rpm related, and NOT carb related, I offer two possibilites;
1) make sure the reluctor gap is more than .008 and less than .020, and remains so on every vane, even with the shaft side-loaded.
2) make sure the pick-up polarity is Not reversed. It is possible to set the Idle-timing with a reversed polarity, but as soon as you start to rev it, the ECU get confused and randomly does strange things, like dropping sparks, and, get this ....... it won't rev up. lol
 
If you have replaced the DISTRIBUTOR and ECU, and ARE SURE CERTAIN that the ECU is grounded, sounds to me like maybe a wiring or power issue. I would "hot wire" the system direct to battery IE identify the "key" feed to the ballast resistor, jumper direct to battery or the big stud on the starter relay with appropriate wire, and try that.

And since the only major part you haven't screwed with is --evidently the coil--I would sub a different coil
 
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