would this be enough?

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mshred

mshred

The Green Manalishi
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Hey guys,

looking to relocate my battery to the trunk and this relocation kit is on sale for me locally

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...AY-48000&N=700+400235+307186+115&autoview=sku

other than the box, it seems like i have everything i would need...what i wanted to ask is, would this be enough cable for my 71 scamp? (same as dart bodystyle) If anyone knows i would appreciate it...unfortunatly my car is at the paint shop so i cant measure it myself

thanks
matthew
 
I dont like the kits... the cable isnt really that good. If the car is a street car with things like fans, HID lighting, big amp alternators, etc., I make the cables out of 0/1 or 2 welders cable, and I run a negative all the way to the back of the head. You will also need the cutoff switch to make it legal to race. And adding that switch uses a little more cable up (it goes on the positive side)
 
hey mopar, i realize i will need the cutoff switch....with a cutoff switch, would the amount of cable provided in that be enough still? also, the cable is supposed to be 2 gauge...is that what you are talking about? I will also have an stereo system with 4 speakers, an amplifier, and subwoofer...would this add any considerations in regarding the size of cable nescessary?
 
mshred said:
hey mopar, i realize i will need the cutoff switch....with a cutoff switch, would the amount of cable provided in that be enough still? also, the cable is supposed to be 2 gauge...is that what you are talking about? I will also have an stereo system with 4 speakers, an amplifier, and subwoofer...would this add any considerations in regarding the size of cable nescessary?
Click to expand...


With all of that I highly recommend using 0 ga wire for ground and hot wire. You would be better off making your own battery relocation kit.

At least 4ga to the starter relay to the alternator.
 
Cable size goes down in number as it gets larger. IIRC each size is 25% more cable diameter. 6 gage is 25% smaller than 4, etc. they go down to 2ga, then 0, then they go 0/1, 0/2, 0/3, etc. Welders cable uses fine diameter copper wire in the cabe, and it is MUCH more resistant to vibration then std multi-strand cable. The resistance is much lower in welding cable vs battery cable for the same diameter and length. The switch, done neatly, will take a couple feet of cable. I run cables down the left side of the car to keep them away from the fuel line. So my route takes a longer cable. Add the negative, and it's more than double what that kit has. But, the reason stereos need special cables and big wiring is because it affects the sound. Same deal with the performance of the electrical system. I also add an underhood buss for the high amp accessories. It might be overkill. But the cars don't have the typical wiring BS even years after, and that's being abused...lol. If this is a straight out drag car, the kit should be fine. A bracket car I would wire MUCH better tho. Just my opinions. I'm sure others have it done differently with success.
 
if i was to peice all the wires myself, would it be cheaper or more expensive than the taylor kit?
 
More. A bit more if you upgrade the materials and piece it out. Plus you need cable retainers, terminal ends, heat shrink, the switch...
 
moper said:
More. A bit more if you upgrade the materials and piece it out. Plus you need cable retainers, terminal ends, heat shrink, the switch...
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what gauge wire do you recommend then moper? Mullinax says atleast 0 ga for ground and hot and atleast 4ga for alternator...is that enough? Taylor also sells a relocation kit that is the same length and stuff, but comes with 1ga welders cable...let me know what you think
 
mshred said:
what gauge wire do you recommend then moper? Mullinax says atleast 0 ga for ground and hot and atleast 4ga for alternator...is that enough? Taylor also sells a relocation kit that is the same length and stuff, but comes with 1ga welders cable...let me know what you think
Click to expand...


How much watts are you going to be pushing with subwoofer amp or amps? I'm not really concerned to much about the high level just your subwoofer. The subs are going to hit and therefore want to rob you volts from the alternator. I have never combine a trunk mounted battery system with a high output system. But I have done this with my truck and ran what was recommend for 2000 watt subwoofer amp. 0 ga hot wire and 0 ga ground wire to the block. I have 0 ga wire coming off the alternator to the battery and then to the amps plus the high level amp. Now in your case its a long way from your alternator to the battery(in the trunk). This kit here might be overkill but keeping in mind the distance between the alternator and battery in which most likely would catch the starter relay then starter and then on the way back to the trunk battery.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1333044/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046
I'm trying to come up with a combine(audio and starting) healthy solution. On my cuda I have 4 ga wire running from the alternator to the starter relay and then to the starter then from the starter to the battery is 2 ga. Now if you are going to have more than 1000 watts subwoofer amp and considering the distance you might need to run 0 ga wire from the starter. A higher output alternator would be a good route to go... I don't know what you have now but just keep that in mind.

If the amps are mounted close to the battery that is going to help a lot when the subs hit but I'm trying to keep the headlights frome dimming everytime they hit ... that is so annoying.
 
Mattew,Performance Improvements is having a blowout sale(45th Anniversary) on Friday April 1st 10a.m til midnite.Just thought I,d let you know,save on U.S dollar and shipping!$100U.S=$127 Can. YIKES!!!
 
That taylor link locked my internet explorer..lol. It sounds like that is the better choice, yes. I wont try to see it again. As was said, smart idea is to wire a direct shot from starter relay to alternator with a heavy gage (6 or 4ga) wire. Rememer, you're asking the same push to move the power over 2-3 times the distance... so you want to make sure it's got plenty of conduit.
 
Hey scott I am already going to the PI sale for a shifter, so thats why i was wondering about the taylor relocation stuff since its on sale as well i thought about picking it up...Mullinax, you raise some good points...i will try to explain myself (im not very good with understanding electrical and stereo systems)...My amp is 800W power handling, and i think my sub is 1000W max power handling, its 10 inch, and its got up to 4 ohms, so i dont know exactly how much wattage i'll be pushing through it...I already have my sub/amp wiring kit and it is the stinger 8 gauge professional kit (cant return it now either =( since i got a deal on it)...the amp will be in the trunk with the battery (only a couple feet away max i would say)...I will also be running a kill switch for the track- i dont think that would eat any power since its just a shutoff right? judging from what im telling you about my setup, what gauge would you recommend? do you think the wiring kit (8 gauge) that i got is enough? the guy at the store told me its the best they have...the alternator that i have now is a pretty new one that was on my slant 6 that i planned on reusing, but im not sure if its a hi output one...also, i think i would run the welders cable that moper mentioned since it seems just like a better option all around...from this info what do you think? i really appreciate the help here- like i said when it comes to electrical and audio im lost...i listen to the guys at bestbuy lol
 
moper said:
That taylor link locked my internet explorer..lol. It sounds like that is the better choice, yes. I wont try to see it again. As was said, smart idea is to wire a direct shot from starter relay to alternator with a heavy gage (6 or 4ga) wire. Rememer, you're asking the same push to move the power over 2-3 times the distance... so you want to make sure it's got plenty of conduit.
Click to expand...

sorry about that moper lol...i thought the higher the number the less gauge it is? you say heavy as in 4-6 ga, but i thought i wanted 0 or less? Am i coinfusing myself here? sorry
 
I have definitely had more success with welding cable than power cable. Less voltage drop end to end and is much sturdier so better for running under the car.
 
i think im going to go with either 1 or 0 gauge welding cable and see how it fares...im thinking i should be okay since the sub and amp are right by the battery anyways...the rest should be fine hopefully, unless of course you guys suggest otherwise or have experience you would like to share
 
I also recommend the welders cable, even for a basic street car. Don't go cheap when you do your wiring, it's not something you want giving you headaches later on.
 
Last trunk mounted battery I did I used welding cable also. Can't remember what guage but it was twice the diameter as the cable from summit or taylor and you may think this is overkill but I pulled the cables through some 3/4 (I think) rad hose for further rub protection.

Terry
 
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