Yet Another Manifold Heat Control Valve Problem

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Chuck Valiant

Beer Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2013
Messages
54
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Location
San Diego
1964, 225
I have recently switched out my entire manifold and exhaust gaskets and everything went great, even drilling out the stud closest to the thermostat. During the process I spent 2 days freeing up the manifold valve. Using the proper Mopar juice from the dealer it was a process of soaking for a day, then soak soak soak, tap tap spray, tap tap spray, tap tap spay, soak tap, soak tap, f### it PRY! After freeing it up the valve seemed to work great, while cold I could turn it to the open position and it would pop back to closed (I might have my open and closed terms backwards but you know what I mean).

After the manifold install I took it for a test drive and noticed that the valve would not open. If I tapped on the shaft from both sides I could easily see that it was moving. Put a crescent wrench on the hot weight to push it to the open position. Drive home, open the hood and it’s back it the closed position. I’ve been doing this for about a week and going for some decent long drives. The valve will always go back to closed while hot.

I don’t feel comfortable having the valve closed during long 1 hour drives so I feel like taking the assembly out till I can find a replacement. I like having the valve because my car runs better now that it is freed up from the open position; she loves a good warm up. In fact if I let her sit longer than 4 hours I have to go through the whole warming up process again. I’m running a 180 thermostat; with 195 she runs too hot on warm days (no antifreeze, just water wetter).

So I’m assuming that the spring has gone bad. I’ve looked around and found a spring for 1959 to 71 but it does not say that it will work for any slant, will this work? (I’ll ask the seller as well). http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1...ries&hash=item1e76ceb727&vxp=mtr#ht_320wt_932

I can buy a salvaged manifold but it could be in worst condition than mine. I can buy a new manifold on ebay with a later control valve that cost anywhere from $106 to $250 but it doesn’t look like the choke stove is the same.

Any suggestions or clarifications? I like the original look and drive so no headers for me.

Thanks
Joe
 
Sounds like you have a good grip on what's going on, as long as it actually is staying closed instead of open. :) (Sound like it is though from the way you describe it)
I personally don't know the answer to the fitment question though, sorry.
 
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