your opinions on stroker crank or grinding a factory

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dudeman601

dudeman601

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i apologize if this thread has already been done, but i have a question about my low deck project. what are generally the prices of having a 440 crank done up for a lowdeck? would it be wiser to buy one already done up? how about rods, aftermarket vs. good forged ones. now i know that seasoned parts will not be as strong etc.. but what are your opinions?

i want to build a reliable motor for street/srip use. seems how i already have a drag bike, i have to play everything off to the wife like it is strictly street.ha ha ha GOD I LOVE HER (sincerely the love of my life) (just in case she reads this) so i have to be really cheap, or convince her it was cheap.

thank you
dudeman601
 
Well, actually, it does make a ton of sense to do what you joke about with the wife.

The best bet is to ask your local machinest what the cost would be to use the 440 crank cut down for the low deck. That would be the first place to start. I have noticed that machine work can cost different prices in different areas of the country. Also, machinest dependent, the price will go up or down.

Seasoned rods are plenty strong but would probably cost more to recondition for such a ride than a purchase of new rods. And the new rods are stronger. Your dead on right there. Just so long as there not the cheap replacement rods. Which may or may not be stronger.

Also, very seriously, it's a wiser choice to have everything brand spanking new for not only strength and reliable life spans, but it does work out cheaper in the long term. IF you brake a part or bend a rod, score a crank, it's machineable and/or easy to replace in the case of a rod. The factory crank and rods may not be so easy as it once was.

To this end, it makes dollors and cents...er sense to purchase it all new if possible.
 
What block are you going to use ? That will make a determination on trying to use stock rods and your piston choice which may be limited and not allow the use of a stock rod .
 
I would cut the crank. I also, (if I laready had the crank) would not hessitate to use a seasoned factory piece.
 
roccodart440 said:
I would cut the crank. I also, (if I laready had the crank) would not hessitate to use a seasoned factory piece.
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i have buddies that have built a couple of stroker motors, and they have used seasoned cranks in all of them. one was a 383/4?? , and another is a alcohol injected 452, both motor see track use only. and so far no problems(that i know of anyway)
 
JohnRR said:
What's your HP goal ?
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havnt really thought about a goal at this point. after i get a combo figured out, i will put some thought into what HP i would like. i know the internals are going to be a major factor into what HP/RPM the motor can handle. right now i am looking at 452 heads with some home porting. with better heads(i.e aftermarket ) the motor will be able to produce better numbers. so everything is up in the air, and im open to suggestions. what is a good HP estimate for a 451 with iron 452 heads?
 
If you are going to go through the work to grind a 440 crank, might as well offset grind it to a BB Chevy journal at 3.90-3.915 stroke = 470" The 3.75 crank set up works awesome as well.

Last time I checked on that type of work around here in CA, it was in the 400-450 range.

Counterweights need cutting along with main journals.
 
I agree with Crackedback. I'm in the process of building that very engine. I decided that I didnt want to bother with used rods so if I was going to buy new ones I figured why not go for the chebby rod bearing size, offset grind the crank and get some more inches too.
Just be sure to get the crank magnafluxed just to be sure you're starting out with a good part.

Ted
 
thanks crackedback and ted.. i will have to check around where i live if anybody can even do the work required(small military town). i know that if its going to be around 400 to 500 i would probably go ahead and buy a aftermarket crank.
i may end up having to go to my home town for prices to have it done, i know there are shops there that can do
 
dudeman601 said:
thanks crackedback and ted.. i will have to check around where i live if anybody can even do the work required(small military town). i know that if its going to be around 400 to 500 i would probably go ahead and buy a aftermarket crank.
i may end up having to go to my home town for prices to have it done, i know there are shops there that can do
Click to expand...

Each area prices will be different , in my area I was quoted 800 to do the mains and offset grind and that was a DECADE ago .

If it's 400 - 500 I would just buy a Cheap Chinese junk crank , have it corrected if needed , and sell the stock crank for a couple hundred to offset the cost . the new crank will be of a better material and is a NON TWIST forging which is stronger .
 
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