Zoom Street/Strip Kevlar Clutch & Pressure Plate (Small Block)

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Old Country

Old Country

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This Clutch & Pressure Plate setup came out of my recently acquired 408 Stroker Duster project car. It had only been in the car for 68 miles, never raced or abused (yet). Its design leans more towards taking serious abuse from big HP (over-kill for this sub 400 hp project). As you're probably aware, the Kevlar withstands major repeated launches without excessive wear and heat, aided by the strong squeeze of this HP Pressure Plate design. As you can see this setup has barely started to break-in, the part number ink-stamp is still easily visible on the Kevlar material (9:00 pos).

Specs:
Kevlar 10.4” Clutch with 23 spline 1” center, just barely started to burnish/wear-in.
Pressure Plate is a Borg & Beck style super-grip, no wear “at all”

Shipping: from Vancouver, Washington
Price: $175 including shipping to the lower 48 states.
Payment Method: Cashiers check or Postal Money Order

Thank kindly. Craig ~ :wave:
 

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Q: Does it bolt-up to an A-833..?
A: Yes. If you're running a small block mopar with a 4-speed which has a standard input shaft (23 spline, 1" dia). If you've a rare beefy Hemi style A-833 with less splines (can't recall how many), then the clutch won't slide on the shaft.

Q: How hard is it on the leg...ie: how stiff is that pressure plate?
A: Depends on how strong you are...no? I do not think a woman would find it comfortable, especially after driving a Honda Accord..etc. This pressure plate says "I'm for real, I won't slip on ya", as you certainly feel the pressure, but nothing excessive. It's not outrageous like some race setups I expereinced years ago. I've seen race-only stuff actually bend things, like the firewall, ha.. this is nothing like that at all, quite streetable. I drove the car for about an hour thru traffic (driving home after buying it) and never found it to be anything more than just a very green hi-pro clutch setup, lil stiff but working-in, but within expectations.

Hope either of you find this to your liking as I don't need it, and would prefer to give the deal to someone here, vs craigslist... ya know? :clock:
 
Well for now, yes. I want to clear $150 or so, and this beefy setup is a tad heavy, so I figured $20+ for shipping... Could be more, but I'll eat that. No gouge going on here, this is literally brand new, NEVER raced or abused. It was in a Duster I was looking at (about 20 miles). The guy had just put it in the previous weekend, and the following weekend I showed up, and I took it for a test drive. I only did two straight-line 'rolling' pulls from about 10 mph AFTER the clutch was fully engaged. I could tell the engine wasn't quite right, but made an offer and so there's some history. The owner took great pains to ensure I didn't hammer his new clutch setup (I wouldn't have). I drove the car home (mostly freeway) and started taking things apart to start my restoration. The clutch setup was a little much for what I'm going to do with the car... and so there ya go. It's certainly very streetable, but I decided to go with a Centerline diaphram design. I was going to keep this one as a spare, but, well.. changed my mind... it's Christmas and baby need a new pair of shoes.

Hope this helps.
Craig ~
 
Do you have a flywheel to go along with it for a 360 smal block?
 
Sorry buddy, but no. All I have is the one on the car (one of those light-weight steel ones).

Good luck.
Craig ~
 
Man you guys are wheeler dealers ain't ya, ha.. That's expected I suppose.

I appreciate the offer but what's wrong with the price..? There's no gouge goin on here.. BUT I'll keep your address (along with the rest) if it comes to that. $125 doesn't even fill my Dodge Cummins tank, ha... Nope, the TO bearing is new (like this), so I'm using it with the new setup. I was going to price this at $200, trying to recoup some of the $335 I spent on it's replacement (Centerforce Dual Friction). So $175 (which includes shipping) seems a good "Old Country" price, ya know?

Look this over again guys. Find it on the web and you'll see these go for ... hmmm? Now that's odd.. I just did a search and I can't find anything that resembles this setup... What the heck...? The guy I bought the car from said it cost him $238, and that was in February (when I bought the car). Now I'm a bit baffled: Why I can't I find it on the web? Maybe it was last years and has been superseded or something.

At any rate... Thanks for looking. I've had a lot of queries about this, so this has been interesting. Whoever get's it will be pleased with what they find in the box, that's for sure.
 
...as you wish....times are tough...and every penny counts...sorry to try to beat you down..but had to try...I believe i will also go with the centerforce unit when I have the spare coin...good luck with your sale...happy holidays to ya...
 
Do you think the Centerforce will be better?? I have a stock 340 Duster and it has the Centerforce Clutch set up in it also. I am really dissapointed with it or I got a defective clutch and didn't realize it. The Centerforce is easy on the leg that's for sure, but what I miss is when the gears bang it seems like the whole dash was coming out of the car before with the old Borg & Beck PP design. With the Centerforce Diaphram is grabs and maybe chirps the tires a little but doesn't grab half as hard as the old Borg & Beck style. I was thinking of going back to this set up. I don't race the car, it's a street car only. No girls driving the car either. So as long as this isn't a monster to hold the clutch pedal in, I would be interested in your offer. Let me know if this is a streetable set up or more for racing. You would know best by at least driving the car somewhat.
Thanks
 
Hey HEMIEd (or anybody):
What does 'PM sent' mean...? I'm new to this and I see weird acronyms in FABO all the time. HELP..

A340:
I have not driven my Centerforce yet and purchased it based on...well.. searching thru FABO. The std Centerforce wasn't that praised, but the 'Dual Friction' was. It was the most recommended, most popular clutch setup in this site. Sooo.... having no clue (been out of the muscle car addiction for 20 yrs) I decided that 'it' must be a better match for where I'm going with this project vs the stouter & probably stiffer street/strip Kevlar setup. That was my logic at the time some months ago. I could be completely silly stupid dead wrong for deciding that and may seriously regret selling this (hope not), ha... I won't know until the car is back together and I've a some miles on it. I do expect the leg force to be reduced some, but leg force wasn't an issue anyway.

To be clear: I found NOTHING wrong or harsh or negative about this Zoom setup at all. Driving it was not a problem, but I'm 6'1" and weigh 235. I've an old but good habit of shifting into neutral when stuck at a long red-light. I hate the idea of my TO Bearing wearing-away just sitting there. I drive this way in my lil rice car too (Toyota), always have since I learned about car clutch systems. Anyway: Guys here in FABO seemed to lean away from the B&B style pressure plates, noting they're sometimes grabby, and tough on the leg. I didn't experience anything like that at all. I'm GUESSING it's stiffer than a diaphram design, but have no direct comparison experience (yet).

You basically asked:
Would you have a problem with the pressure plate?
Answer: Are you healthy? Do you have any leg trama? Are you pregnant? Is your idea of athletics playing a stiff game on the Wii...? :toothy10:
NO. You should not have any issues driving a street machine with this setup...no big deal AT ALL. :cheers:

And so: So far I have offers from $100 to a latest of $160 today... which I'm very seriously considering if he sweetens it $5 more. If YOU want it, you got it, cheap, cheap, cheap. Just $175 shipped to your door as soon as I get your postal money order. Now is that simple or what? Let me know asap.

Have a great day all. Craig ~
 
i personally used to run a hayes set-up...was stiff on the leg though..b/b design...I hear nothing but BAD things about them as of late??..I have a friend who recently changed to the centerforce dual friction unit and says pedal feel is good...he still uses the clutch overcenter spring but I have heard that it should be removed for some reason...can anyone add to this??? do you run the spring??? not run the spring???
 
Heard the same about the Hayes set up. Thought I would luck out with the one being offered is a Zoom set up?

Yes, you need to remove the spring! If you don't the clutch pedal will stick to the floor especially if you are speed shifting.
 
Hey, I thank you very kindly A340 (Jeff Baker). This whole thing took on a strange life of it's own, it was fun, but I thank you for putting an end to it. :cheers:

Okay, I've sent you a confirmatory email and a PM here in FABO. So now I'm waiting to hear from you as to when the postal money order will be sent so I can get this puppy on the way to you. You now have my emails and phone#. Talk to me son, I'm a wait'n.

And YES you are correct, that spring must be removed. It's very strange to me. See here: The CF folks say to remove it for any diaphram pressure plate...AND...Zoom, Hayes and others state the same thing on their's, which are Borg & Beck. HUH? AND I believe the stock mopar plates are indeed the Borg & Beck style (like this Zoom), ...AND... the cars come from the factory with the Spring INSTALLED...? What gives? When would the Spring NOT be removed, ha, ha...:withstup:
 
SALE PENDING

I just spoke with A340 (Jeff Baker), one truly fine example of why this site is so great.

Pleasure ~ :thumrigh:
 
wish i knew...bro... heard too many stories..maybe someone will clarify here???
 
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