Edelbrock LD4B vs Weiand Stealth

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moparmat2000

moparmat2000

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Kinda curious as to how the Weiand Stealth compares to the vaunted Eddy LD4B on a mild 318. I ask because when these turn up, people are wanting like new prices on old and sometimes corroded and crusty LD4Bs. Most I would ever pay for an old aluminum 4bbl intake needing work would be $100. I am curious, are they really that good, or would I just be better off just buying a brand new Weiand Stealth #8022 for a few dollars more.
 
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This will be interesting. From what I have read, the Stealth is pretty much an exact copy.
 
There are some fairrrrrly recent threads on the LD4B where members spoke of their experiences and comparison with other manifolds. The weiand intakes were brought up. Do some searches brother. Repost those links for me (please). The testimonials convinced me to buy one for an economy/daily driver.
I was going to ‘waste’ it on a 360 vice a 318.
I wanted to put it on some ported 302 -318 heads but the Chinese aluminum cylinder heads (ProMaxx, Speedmaster) are comparable in price after porting 302’s...

The previous posts mentioned problems with some of the intake runners (on comparable intakes) not evenly ?dispersing? The fuel evenly compared to the older Edelbrock LD4B intake.
 
I think the Edelbrock LD4B and the Weiand Stealth are the same thing...

ld4b.jpg
 
Not sure how to add links to here. However the stealth seems the closest to the old LD4B. If the differences were that minor between the 2 intakes, I'd rather just do a click n pay for a new one and start fresh, as opposed to having to refurbish an old one to be able to use it. I plan on coating the water passages of either intake I decide on with a fluid resistant epoxy, and using stainless steel or marine grade brass for water fittings. I am a step ahead with buying new in this area rather than having to sandblast out corrosion and do repair. Of course if the LD4B is worth all that, then sure I would take the time to sandblast it, and repair and coat it.

Mild 318 with a cam, 340 exhaust manifolds, and hopped up electronic ignition w HEI module. Planning on an edelbrock 600 carb.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Not sure how to add links to here. However the stealth seems the closest to the old LD4B. If the differences were that minor between the 2 intakes, I'd rather just do a click n pay for a new one and start fresh, as opposed to having to refurbish an old one to be able to use it. I plan on coating the water passages of either intake I decide on with a fluid resistant epoxy, and using stainless steel or marine grade brass for water fittings. I am a step ahead with buying new in this area rather than having to sandblast out corrosion and do repair. Of course if the LD4B is worth all that, then sure I would take the time to sandblast it, and repair and coat it.

Mild 318 with a cam, 340 exhaust manifolds, and hopped up electronic ignition w HEI module. Planning on an edelbrock 600 carb.
Click to expand...
Copy and paste the web address
 
If you were to use both on the same engine I doubt you'd know which was which with the seatofthepantsometer.
 
One thing I like about the Stealth is that the ports are laid out even. Picture is of a LD4B.

ld4b2.jpg
 
Use a 340 six pack coil bracket that mounts to the right rear 2 intake manifold bolts to mount the coil since theres no coil mount cast into the intake on either the LD4B or the 8022, or make your own.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Use a 340 six pack coil bracket that mounts to the right rear 2 intake manifold bolts to mount the coil since theres no coil mount cast into the intake on either the LD4B or the 8022, or make your own.
Click to expand...
The LD4B will allow factory A/C. I don't know about the Stealth.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Not sure how to add links to here. However the stealth seems the closest to the old LD4B. If the differences were that minor between the 2 intakes, I'd rather just do a click n pay for a new one and start fresh, as opposed to having to refurbish an old one to be able to use it. I plan on coating the water passages of either intake I decide on with a fluid resistant epoxy, and using stainless steel or marine grade brass for water fittings. I am a step ahead with buying new in this area rather than having to sandblast out corrosion and do repair. Of course if the LD4B is worth all that, then sure I would take the time to sandblast it, and repair and coat it.

Mild 318 with a cam, 340 exhaust manifolds, and hopped up electronic ignition w HEI module. Planning on an edelbrock 600 carb.
Click to expand...

Since both the intake are so similar, it’s really a price vs originality decision. I was in the same boat 3 years ago and found a LD4B for $140 shipped. It had been installed new on a boat in the early 80’s that only had 140 hours on it. It just needed a wash before before I spray bombed it blue and installed it.

I like your setup as it’s exactly what I did (318 with a mild cam, 302 heads, 340 exhaust manifolds and a 1406). Being a ‘75 it’s already got an electronic ignition but I did install a distributor from Trailbeast to get rid of the slow curve the original ‘75 distributor had.
 
H22A4 said:
Since both the intake are so similar, it’s really a price vs originality decision. I was in the same boat 3 years ago and found a LD4B for $140 shipped. It had been installed new on a boat in the early 80’s that only had 140 hours on it. It just needed a wash before before I spray bombed it blue and installed it.

I like your setup as it’s exactly what I did (318 with a mild cam, 302 heads, 340 exhaust manifolds and a 1406). Being a ‘75 it’s already got an electronic ignition but I did install a distributor from Trailbeast to get rid of the slow curve the original ‘75 distributor had.
Click to expand...
How does it run compared to before the mods?
 
toolmanmike said:
How does it run compared to before the mods?
Click to expand...

It runs and sounds really nice; it’s got a lot more snap now. I had the dual exhaust and 302 heads done before the 4bbl upgrade. I then had the 340 exhaust manifolds installed 6 months after the 4bbl upgrade. Aside from my butt dyno, I can’t say for sure how much power each upgrade provided but the 4bbl upgrade gave me the biggest butt dyno improvement.

BE386459-A5ED-4766-9365-515EA4F9D39A.jpeg
 
H22A4 said:
It runs and sounds really nice; it’s got a lot more snap now. I had the dual exhaust and 302 heads done before the 4bbl upgrade. I then had the 340 exhaust manifolds installed 6 months after the 4bbl upgrade. Aside from my butt dyno, I can’t say for sure how much power each upgrade provided but the 4bbl upgrade gave me the biggest butt dyno improvement.

View attachment 1715394222
Click to expand...
Looks nice. Don't forget to hook up your coil wire! :poke::lol:
 
H22A4, I like the throttle return spring bracket. Which 318 is that off of ? I have some that interfere with my upper radiator hose. Would like to get one that looks like yours. Mine looks like this.

Screenshot_20190915-094752_eBay.jpg
 
My circa mid 90's Stealth had the ports taper down to 318 size at the flange. Might work better if you're using 318 heads. You can also open it to 340/360 port window size
 
I had to grind on the Stealth a little bit in order to get it to bolt on. Hey have no idea how the previous owner did it! ARP reduces head size bolts.

The intake/engine performs great.
No coil mount provisions. See post #17 above as I did the same thing, home made AAR coil mount style.

105F7855-6219-406E-A65A-14A4674068BD.jpeg
0C39235F-7753-4932-BDB2-F2EE707B54E3.jpeg
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I have used 2 Stealth intakes recently. One on a mild 360. I opened up the ports to match the larger 360 ports. No fitment issues and it ran very well.
The second I used is on a mild teen that is still on the engine stand. I had no fitment issues with this intake either.
From my experiences, I wouldn't hesitate to run another stealth again.
 
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