'70 Dart 392 Project; what direction?

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Got a bracket ordered from Jegs. Should allow me to copy SRT8Cudas linkage.
Modified my pedal again today. The cable was kinking a bit with a poor mockup so will secure it better and improve the routing when the bracket shows up. I can’t stand a sticky pedal motion so hoping this gets it right.

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Here's a question for you all.... Does the throttle body blade have to be 100% flat to maximize airflow? I'm sure the megasquirt has a calibration for 0-100% throttle no matter where the valve ends up at. I'm pretty sure with a slight adjustment I can get the throttle body valve to slightly below parallel. Thinking of all the twists and turns that air has to make to actually reach the combustion chamber, I'm wondering if it's even worth making sure it opens up completely flat. All the airflow throttle body testing I've seen show that they're not really a bottle neck for power/flow...

I can get about 1.8" of travel with my stock pedal, and throttle body opens up with about 2.1" of cable travel...
Bracket won't be here till thursday and I"m gone thursday-sunday so won't be able to work on the car until next week. In the mean time I ordered a Cold Case 755K radiator/fan combination from jegs and a bulkhead fitting with 10AN and 6AN fittings to run my AC hoses through to the Cold master AC unit under the dash.

Mike
 
Here's a question for you all.... Does the throttle body blade have to be 100% flat to maximize airflow? I'm sure the megasquirt has a calibration for 0-100% throttle no matter where the valve ends up at. I'm pretty sure with a slight adjustment I can get the throttle body valve to slightly below parallel. Thinking of all the twists and turns that air has to make to actually reach the combustion chamber, I'm wondering if it's even worth making sure it opens up completely flat. All the airflow throttle body testing I've seen show that they're not really a bottle neck for power/flow...

I can get about 1.8" of travel with my stock pedal, and throttle body opens up with about 2.1" of cable travel...
Bracket won't be here till thursday and I"m gone thursday-sunday so won't be able to work on the car until next week. In the mean time I ordered a Cold Case 755K radiator/fan combination from jegs and a bulkhead fitting with 10AN and 6AN fittings to run my AC hoses through to the Cold master AC unit under the dash.

Mike
You can calibrate 0-100% anyway you want, so it doesn't have to be open 100% to call it 100%. That's kind of where I am, it's pretty close so I bought a 92mm throttle body to compensate.

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You can calibrate 0-100% anyway you want, so it doesn't have to be open 100% to call it 100%. That's kind of where I am, it's pretty close so I bought a 92mm throttle body to compensate.

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That's what I'm thinking as well! I've also got a 92mm TB... My diesel moves way more air than this engine ever will and the intake elbow and grid heater is way more restrictive than this 92mm throttle body will be at 90% open.

Mike
 
Minor progress happening.
Got the coldmaster HEAT/AC evaporator in, still gotta route coolant lines and connect a switch 12V source but it is minor progress.
It fits pretty easily under the glove box, will have about 1” of the bottom of the evap unit exposed when fully mounted.

Got my Cold Case radiator “in” but the fan of course contacts the front pulley on the engine. And by contact I mean like .005” contact. Going to send an email to the company and see what they recommend. Can’t mount fan on the opposite side due to the condenser being mounted there. Just need to TIG the brackets to the radiator mount but everything should clear just fine there.

Really looking forward to getting past the radiator and heat/cool system so I can move on towards megasquirt wiring and exhaust fab.

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Minor progress happening.
Got the coldmaster HEAT/AC evaporator in, still gotta route coolant lines and connect a switch 12V source but it is minor progress.
It fits pretty easily under the glove box, will have about 1” of the bottom of the evap unit exposed when fully mounted.

Got my Cold Case radiator “in” but the fan of course contacts the front pulley on the engine. And by contact I mean like .005” contact. Going to send an email to the company and see what they recommend. Can’t mount fan on the opposite side due to the condenser being mounted there. Just need to TIG the brackets to the radiator mount but everything should clear just fine there.

Really looking forward to getting past the radiator and heat/cool system so I can move on towards megasquirt wiring and exhaust fab.

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Ouch. That Holley FEAD does move everything forward, didn’t think it would be that big of an issue though. Might have to look at a dual fan setup.

Glad to see you still making progress either way.
 
Ouch. That Holley FEAD does move everything forward, didn’t think it would be that big of an issue though. Might have to look at a dual fan setup.

Glad to see you still making progress either way.
Yeah I was slightly disappointed for sure but such is my luck.

I haven’t heard from cold case yet but if anything I’ve got a good 10” fan picked out that I think I could run duals with. At this point I would probably draw up my own shroud in a 3D modeling solftware and make it. Would hope to get some money back from cold case first though.
 
Zero help from cold case other than the response of "that's our smallest fan" and "you can't return the shroud/fan due to removing the protective cover". I asked twice for dimensions of their shroud mounting brackets and got no response. Oh well...

I just ordered a Spal fan off amazon with some extended mounting brackets. Spal Fan PN: 30102049. It's a 16" puller that's supposedly only 2.05" wide and moves 2025CFM. Little less than what Cold case fan advertises but the reviews are really solid and hopefully I can get it to work with the current shroud.

Parts will be here end of the week, probably won't get to it until next week though.

Mike @ HCA
 
Working on more projects this week. About got my heater hoses routed, waiting on a few more fittings to arrive. About done with my Cold Master AC underdash kit as well. Waiting for a few more fittings as well and then I just need to connect two wires.

Got my Radiator/condensor/fans mounted up. Ended up having to dremel and JB Weld the fan motor housing to clear the front pulley. Looks kind of shitty but it was my only option. The Spal fan I ordered while advertised at only 2" tall was actually 4"+ tall when measured with the motor not just the fan housing.

Going to modify my throttle pedal a bit more to increase the travel on the throttle body.

I've got a new brewers reverse light switch for the A833 I'm trying to sort out what wires to run to the starter solenoid, and what wire to tie into the painless wiring reverse light switch... Sent an email to brewers we'll see what they say.

Current projects are to start laying out the megasquirt harness and work on fixing up my fuel filler tube. One thing at a time!

MIke @ HCA
 
Working on more projects this week. About got my heater hoses routed, waiting on a few more fittings to arrive. About done with my Cold Master AC underdash kit as well. Waiting for a few more fittings as well and then I just need to connect two wires.

Got my Radiator/condensor/fans mounted up. Ended up having to dremel and JB Weld the fan motor housing to clear the front pulley. Looks kind of shitty but it was my only option. The Spal fan I ordered while advertised at only 2" tall was actually 4"+ tall when measured with the motor not just the fan housing.

Going to modify my throttle pedal a bit more to increase the travel on the throttle body.

I've got a new brewers reverse light switch for the A833 I'm trying to sort out what wires to run to the starter solenoid, and what wire to tie into the painless wiring reverse light switch... Sent an email to brewers we'll see what they say.

Current projects are to start laying out the megasquirt harness and work on fixing up my fuel filler tube. One thing at a time!

MIke @ HCA
I was just looking at your clearance.. I wouldn't have thought twice about cutting that protrusion off the water pump shaft, sticking out of the pulley.
 
I was just looking at your clearance.. I wouldn't have thought twice about cutting that protrusion off the water pump shaft, sticking out of the pulley.
Well that would've been the smarter decision! haha Live and learn...

So I'm going through my megasquirt stuff and holley "gen 3 hemi connector kit" and holy crap the holley kit is garbage. They have 21 connectors in the kit with not a single applicable label. I emailed holley and they said they don't have a part number reference for what each connector is for. In comparing some of my basic sensors; cam, crank, injectors, coil packs... not a single connector fits. So far looking like a waste of money.

So I'm going through a connector list and will be buying individual connectors I'm guessing.

Here's a list so far of sensors that I have and their connectors that I'll need:

EV6 injector connectors X8
crank sensor (factory hemi 3 pin connector)
cam sensor (factory hemi 3 pin connector)
Coolant Temp sensor (factory 2 pin connector)
Ignition Coil Connectors X8
Bosch Knock sensor connector X2
LS Idle Air control Connector X1
LS TPS Sensor connector X1
bought these sensors for a GM LS cable throttle body: JEGS 14531: Idle Air Control Motor and Throttle Position Sensor for GM LS - JEGS
O2 sensors (came with connectors)

What I don't have is an IAT sensor yet as I don't have an air intake setup yet. Recommendations?

I swear the research/prep work on this stuff is the hardest part!

Mike
 
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