2K paint over 1K opinions please

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clementine

clementine

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Co-worker bunged up his door (Audi A4 quattro) on a post in parking lot. Wanted to spend his money on materials and an education instead of body shop. My first mistake was to have him order paint. Moving forward we cleaned sanded and prepped for a skim coat of filler. Looked pretty good. sprayed the primer/base/clear in 1K spray bomb form and everything is gucci........but it is slightly the wrong color. So, I want to get a 2K version of the paint using the paint code mixed at Wesco down the street and again use some 2K clear to finish...wet sand/buff....all that.

Can I cover the 1K with the 2K?

How far do I have to scuff sand?

This is not a show car. This is a get er done......but want to match the paint better than what it is.


Thanks FABO!!!

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Im not a professional,or a good amateur. I am an internet know it all so here goes.
If the paint you already put on is one of those spray bombs that have a hardener I would scuff with 400 and spray with something else that hopefully matches.
If it was catalyzed spray bomb i would sand to primer and start over.
i just dont trust painting over anything that does not have a chemical cure from a hardener.
 
Maybe @67Dart440GT will chime in. He is a very good professional painter. I'd take his opinion to the bank. I tagged him, so maybe he'll chime in.
 
HankRearden said:
i just dont trust painting over anything that does not have a chemical cure from a hardener.
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I see your point on this.
Bodyperson said:
Looks like the shine is a big factor. Buff it.
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That picture is right after. If it were the correct match I would just run with it and wait 72 hrs and lightly sand and clear it again before the wet sand and buff......just to make sure I had enough to wet sand and buff. that there in the pic is tack coat/ medium/heavy.
 
It's up to your buddy whether he wants to roll the dice. There's plenty of stories of people having no issues and stories of people having to redo everything down the road. There's so many variables when it comes to not only paint type, but brands, that you really can't be sure.

Me personally, if I was going to short cut it, I'd lay down a coat of epoxy primer over the 1k and then 2k over the epoxy. I feel like epoxy ups your chances of being successful with it since it really kind of sticks to anything and forms a nice barrier to restart the paint process. Not foolproof but it should give you better odds than just going directly over it with 2k.
 
ESP47 said:
It's up to your buddy whether he wants to roll the dice. There's plenty of stories of people having no issues and stories of people having to redo everything down the road. There's so many variables when it comes to not only paint type, but brands, that you really can't be sure.

Me personally, if I was going to short cut it, I'd lay down a coat of epoxy primer over the 1k and then 2k over the epoxy. I feel like epoxy ups your chances of being successful with it since it really kind of sticks to anything and forms a nice barrier to restart the paint process. Not foolproof but it should give you better odds than just going directly over it with 2k.
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good idea!
 
ESP47 said:
It's up to your buddy whether he wants to roll the dice. There's plenty of stories of people having no issues and stories of people having to redo everything down the road. There's so many variables when it comes to not only paint type, but brands, that you really can't be sure.

Me personally, if I was going to short cut it, I'd lay down a coat of epoxy primer over the 1k and then 2k over the epoxy. I feel like epoxy ups your chances of being successful with it since it really kind of sticks to anything and forms a nice barrier to restart the paint process. Not foolproof but it should give you better odds than just going directly over it with 2k.
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So i gave it a sand, masked, and shot with epoxy primer/2K base/2K clear and it turned out much better on the color match/ gloss texture dept. I'll let it harden for a couple days then cut and buff.

Thanks FABO!!

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clementine said:
Then.... come out to the S10 mini truck that i had parked on the street while doing the job and......irony strikes. Sigh. A$$hole tax.

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dangit. I've developed a pretty good push for those dents. I strap a piece of hardwood to a boat fender https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-inflatable-boat-fender like this. Finagle it in there right at the molding and push on the wood with a porto power letting the cushion boat fender ease the dent out instead of beating the snot out of it. Works good but thats a pretty deep one. You are still gonna have some issues up on that higher body line. A pneumatic suction cup slide hammer would be handy up there.
 
Bodyperson said:
dangit. I've developed a pretty good push for those dents. I strap a piece of hardwood to a boat fender https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-inflatable-boat-fender like this. Finagle it in there right at the molding and push on the wood with a porto power letting the cushion boat fender ease the dent out instead of beating the snot out of it. Works good but thats a pretty deep one. You are still gonna have some issues up on that higher body line. A pneumatic suction cup slide hammer would be handy up there.
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I will give it a go! is there a pneumo slide hammer you prefer? Im looking at the Inflatable boat fender and cant spy the nipple for inflation.... must be there somewhere. I dont hate getting tools, I might add a stud welder if all else fails. You are correct the top is gonna be an issue, I think the bottom might not give up so easy either.
 
clementine said:
I will give it a go! is there a pneumo slide hammer you prefer? Im looking at the Inflatable boat fender and cant spy the nipple for inflation.... must be there somewhere. I dont hate getting tools, I might add a stud welder if all else fails. You are correct the top is gonna be an issue, I think the bottom might not give up so easy either.
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I cant recommend one cause there was only one shop that I worked in that had one and I don't know the brand. I just bought one off of amazon. Be here in a few days.
 
clementine said:
I will give it a go! is there a pneumo slide hammer you prefer? Im looking at the Inflatable boat fender and cant spy the nipple for inflation.... must be there somewhere. I dont hate getting tools, I might add a stud welder if all else fails. You are correct the top is gonna be an issue, I think the bottom might not give up so easy either.
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If you do wind up with a stud welder, do yourself a massive favor and get a slide hammer like this one below. Don't get tempted into the cheaper style stud hammer that has a little roller cam that grips onto the stud. They are a massive pain to use and constantly slip off of the studs.

I actually really like everything that this Motor Guard brand makes and I do believe they make their stuff in the USA as well.

Amazon product ASIN B00063UOIY
Full kit with the good slide hammer.

Amazon product ASIN B0000AXDA6
 
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