Yea, they're fine without a tune but only small gains.. Tune will bring all the power out tho
They're not that cheap anymore tho. I caught a good deal on a super low mile take out with lifters.
Hemi Swapping a perfectly good 70 Duster
- Thread starter racerjoe
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They're not that cheap anymore tho. I caught a good deal on a super low mile take out with lifters.
I drained the oil. No big chunks came out, so that's good...lol It honestly still ran good and revved like normal. The squeak clack sound is what got my attention.Very nice, doesn't look too bad.... i am hoping to do a 390 or 408 shortblock for next year... need to get **** moving on it's own this year first
wow that's crazy with that much lobe/lifter gone it didn't have much more bad... very nice.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I went and looked up my cost, $255 for the cam and $74.08 for the springs. The stupid thing was that it cost me $91.95 for shipping! That was when shipping costs were stupid high, I should have waited. I saw too many people trying to find parts and figured I would rather have them on the shelf. And the price had gone from $86 (or so) to $250+ so I figured they were just going to keep going up.
I was able to find the same cam for $265 just now, so not much higher.
I did the same thing with my Hooker swap headers, buy them now instead of waiting. Not they are discontinued and I have a set on the shelf.
I lied. It came out tonight. This really wasn’t the plan, but while I when I was finishing up disconnecting the trans wires and driveshaft, I was like, 4 bolts and that trans is on the floor. Well, one thing led to another..
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Awesome! What firewall connector do you run for the wiring harness?
It's a Deutsch connector, 47 pins. You can use the connector assembler on Wirecare.com to figure out what you need. Sometimes you can find the parts on ebay with better pricing if you search by part number. Wire care is easy because it takes the guesswork out of it. I have these all over my car of various sizes. There's another one in the fender well for all the headlights, horn, radiator fans, etc. Also have it on my fuel tank wiring.
I'll warn you, they aren't cheap. I was first introduced to these when I worked for Cummins. They use these on their industrial engines. I've since seen them in many places such as construction machinery, generators, RVs, etc. You do need a special crimper. There are some cheap options for those as well.
You can see the receptacle side in this picture.
When you're on a roll... might as well keep going!!
I'm eager to hear your comparison between the two characteristics... since your previous motor was already pretty healthy. Hoopty had a Slant before going 5.7 and the dart was a 318. So neither one was a shocker when they made me **** my pants
You and me both. That's likely one of the biggest things I'm anxious to learn. I know what it use to MPH in the quarter mile from previous years at Moparty. I'm going again this year, so I'll know right away how the 5.7 compares. I think the weight difference is insignificant, but I'll run it across the scales at the track again to know for sure.
208Dart
Well-Known Member
That’s legit!!! Thank you! I wish I would’ve found that before doing my painless install but may try one for the megasquirt harness…. Or the next project car
Make sure you report the differences!! Need to see if this is worth doing.
I got the headers, clutch, bellhousing, and starter on since this picture. Still lots more to go. I'm going to get a buddy to help with the trans. That thing is heavy! My worn out shoulders don't care for awkward overhead lifting anymore.Now for the details!!
I'm getting too old for "on my back" **** too!!
DionR
Well-Known Member
Too funny. I am still weight limited so I had to call in a friend to help me pull my A833OD so I could figure out why it is getting stuck in 4th. No idea where I would be without friends.
Smoothing the intake and making things color match go a long way with knocking the ugly off. I always do my best to hide wires and hoses. When they can’t be hidden, I try to run them in a neat manner. But to answer your question, yes it does look good. It looks huge in there. Can see the ground next to the engine anymore.
I try to make things look good as well.. Sanitary. I don't mind some wiring that can be seen, as long as it's not a rats nest. The half covers help tuck away things that you just can't completely hide.
dartslantsix
Well-Known Member
How did you smooth the intake? Did you also paint it? If so, what did you use? It looks way better than stock.
There was a bunch of plastic casting flash and other random things on it. I just sanded them off with a die grinder with a roloc disc and did some final smoothing on those spots with some plastic filler. Valve covers, and intake are painted with Cerakote.
When @HemiDenny originally designed his G3 hemi mounts, he used the Milodon oil pan. The Holley cast pan is a little deeper in the front and back and the sump is also in a slightly different position. Denny couldn't say with 100% certainty that the Holley pan would work without some "adjustments" to something. Here are some photos of the clearances for those using this combination of parts. Note, I have the engine all the way forward since it was too close to the firewall for my liking in the rearward position. Pushing the engine back would provide slightly more clearance. Nothing is touching, so I'm good with how it is. Denny primitively figured out a solution if these parts contacted one another.
I'm slowing knocking things out. I had limited time this past weekend to get things done. Headers are in and tight. There's no way I would have wanted to tighten headers with a stock K. Pretty sure I'd let someone kick me right in the nuts before I'd choose to do that! My modified Z-bar is installed and clears everything beautifully. I found my old starter power wire had become a victim of excessive heat. I'm glad I found that. I made a new one and put some heat insulating loom on it even thought its no where near these headers. Of course the solenoid wire was too short, so that had to be remediated.
More to come as I knock things out!
I'm slowing knocking things out. I had limited time this past weekend to get things done. Headers are in and tight. There's no way I would have wanted to tighten headers with a stock K. Pretty sure I'd let someone kick me right in the nuts before I'd choose to do that! My modified Z-bar is installed and clears everything beautifully. I found my old starter power wire had become a victim of excessive heat. I'm glad I found that. I made a new one and put some heat insulating loom on it even thought its no where near these headers. Of course the solenoid wire was too short, so that had to be remediated.
More to come as I knock things out!
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