LOWBUCK rebuild options??

[moparPW200guy]

i am currantly trying to do a lowbuck rebuild with some performance goodies on a 360 out of my 77 dodge pickup. does anyone have suggestions for parts or.....???

 

[FASTBACK340]

i am currantly trying to do a lowbuck rebuild with some performance goodies on a 360 out of my 77 dodge pickup. does anyone have suggestions for parts or.....???

This might sound totally insane, but the first place I'd look is a machine shop. Sometimes people drop off stuff and say " yeah....yeah....yeah...." to repairs and when they see the bill disappear. Usually you can purchase these un-claimed blocks for cheap. Granted this is a long-shot, but it can net a good deal.

If your staying with what you have, and it is a running motor, I'd recommend checking compression and cylinder leakage to get an idea of what your starting with. If your blowing 40% cylinder pressure past the rings and into the crankcase it doesn't make sense producing MORE power to push down there! Oil consumption via valve guides are a red-flag too....

Provided you have a decent basis, the easiest and most rewarding is an exhaust system & intake up-grade. Start with larger diameter pipes, possibly headers. An aluminim manifold and after market carb should be considered too. Next ignition and cam. If your going further than that, the engine is coming out and you may as well do the full boogie routine.

If you need exact item recommendations, post away. There's a bunch`o smart people here :thumrigh:

 

[OUTLAW]

as fastback 340 says start with a sound motor, if you plan a rebuild from the crank up then compression is the #1 factor to making H.P. and the hardest to re-do once its in the car. If you dont want to buy pistons then the mopar hot tips book recommends a .020 to .030 mill on the heads to raise compression from .4 to 1.1 compression increase. From there build as wild or mild as you want

 

[moparPW200guy]

well as of a year ago this thing ran like a top. no smoke and strong. i went to replace the oil pan ( due to a dent the size of my HEAD) and do the timing chain since i knew it was not the greatest and i had been having timing problems ( keeping it in time) but lost the pan bolts somewhere..... so the pans been off for about a year. so i figured i would just pull it and do a rebuild on it.

i have the motor out already and torn down. it needs a cam, a head cleaning possibly a rebuild and possibly a crank. bearings look weird to me but i do not know how they are supposed to look after they ahve been in for a while... i have a carb and intake (holley 600 and edlebrock performer intake) i will be running untill i find a factory 4bbl manifold and TQ. i have the factory manifolds runnin 2.5in(?) duals but i have to check the size.... the odd part is this thing seems so old yet there was almost no ridge in the cyls and i can still see the hone marks all the way down the cyls... and the freese plugs were just gross and held in with silicone. is this right???? i always thought they were a press fit type deal.....


heres what i have thats new.....
oil pan, oil pump with pressure kit from stealership, timing chain, timing cover, water pump, distributor, oil pump driveshaft( never been intalled), all bolts for intake, exhaust, oil pan, timing cover\water pump, and valve covers, new dipstick and tube due to it being a 6quart pan vs a 5quart model, new oil pickup tube, new hoses throughout engine bay, new radiator, new thermostat, new voltage regulator, new iggy control modual, new ballast resistor, new starter relay...... like i said i want it done right.....

i am currantly looking for a GOOD machine shop to take this thing to so i can have everything checked out. i dont want to bore ti if i dont have to because that costs big $$$ that i dont have a lot of.

i am looking for a good cam that will give LOADS of low end torque but still ahve something for the top end. granted i am limited on how fast this beast will go due to the fact of a 3spd auto, 4.10 gears and full time 4wd.....but i want to have decent power throughout the driving range and not worry about having to tow or haul heavy loads. suggestions on brands for cam, lifters and bearings????

as for the heads i ahve been thinking about punching the valves out to 2.02 Intakes and 1.60 exhaust or should i leave em the way they are???? the backs of the valves are gross and have accumulated some crapola from either being to rich or from bad valve seals. but then again it wasn't blowing any smoke period when it ran.

i still have the factory truck manifolds for this with the duals already setup for them. but its old and crusty but still in ok shape. if i went with headers are there a set of shorty headers i could use???? i am wanting a fairly stock sedate look but have power...

now comes the crank. IF i need one are there any that i should stay away from??? or will any truck or heavy duty 360 crank work for what i am doing??? as said previously the rod bearings in some spots were down to copper on some but not on others. and a few had slight scratches but he rod journals looked ok to me.... the mains looked ok just a pain to get out. and yes this thing WILL be treated to ARP rod and main bolts.

the pistons look ok to me but i havent done a whole lot of measuring yet either. i gotta clean em up before i say to much more on it.

i saw no indication of a head gasket leak or anything else. except the rear main seal but you know how the old saying goes...."Old mopars dont leak, they mark their terratory.

thanx again guys. i will definatley look into at least milling the heads if i dont get new pistons. i do want a little more power.

 

[OUTLAW]

my understanding when I was putting my 360 together is all cranks are the same
the freeze plugs ARE a press fit but a little sealer doesnt hurt but not silicone sealer (i use form a gasket the black gooey stuff for frost plugs)
yes do the valves to 2.02 and 1.60 if you can afford it
several companies make shorty headers ...headman is my recomendation

if you have a edelbrock performer why go back to the stock 4bbl manifold? I have one if you really feel the need . No TQ tho.
sounds like your on track to make power (torque ) with your truck ...make it breathe and the rest will follow has always been my philosophy when making a engine for someone who wasn't racing

 

[moparPW200guy]

my understanding when I was putting my 360 together is all cranks are the same
the freeze plugs ARE a press fit but a little sealer doesnt hurt but not silicone sealer (i use form a gasket the black gooey stuff for frost plugs)
yes do the valves to 2.02 and 1.60 if you can afford it
several companies make shorty headers ...headman is my recomendation

if you have a edelbrock performer why go back to the stock 4bbl manifold? I have one if you really feel the need . No TQ tho.
sounds like your on track to make power (torque ) with your truck ...make it breathe and the rest will follow has always been my philosophy when making a engine for someone who wasn't racing

the reson i want to have a factory manifold is for originality. plus i have heard the factory cast iron ones flow just as good as the aftermarket. and this manifold is ultimatley destined for my sons 67 dart 273. i will look into the headman headers and see what i can come up with!