8.8 swap

-
You got plenty of tire clearance with that stock spring location and the 8.8 I'm a little concerned about it but I really dont want to pay 175 for the 1/2 kit.
Yes, and my son did have to use 1/4 spacers on his Scamp. He really wanted to stay with his Cragar SS wheels.
 
Ok thanks man I guess I I'll mock it all up and see what it looks like I havent got the money right now to order my new springs will they change the pinion angle or is that strictly based off the location of then hanger on the axle?
Never had a problem with pinion angle after a spring change myself. Replacing worn out springs with new ones will likely correct things father time has changed!
 
Mostly ready to install. Used rattle can flat black cause its what I have a lot of. This one needed axle seals, axles, calipers, rotors and pads. No driveshaft work since its replacing an 8.25. Still a deal!
20200402_191756.jpg
20200402_191807.jpg
20200402_191618.jpg
20200402_191609.jpg
20200402_191555.jpg
20200402_191513.jpg
20200402_191505.jpg
20200402_191450.jpg
 
What gear oil are yall using in your 8.8? Iv read multiple answers online.
 
I would use the stock weight gear oil it calls for and limited slip additive. (Friction modifier) if you have a limited slip.
 
Being it's a stock rear end, using something different than what ford calls out as far as oil weight and type may ruin it. Friction modifier on the other hand anything aftermarket is just fine. Mine is from Yukon gear, but GM positraction additives the same stuff.

Without it, just turning a corner you will get this bump, bump, bump feeling. That is the clutches in the differential gripping, binding, and releasing multiple times. Friction modifier additive stops that and allows the smooth slippage for turning corners, but full grip when they are needed to grip.

Do NOT get this on your hands. This is stinky assed ****. It will take a week of washing to wear it off. Latex gloves are definitely required. I have to soak the new clutches I have in this stuff before assembling the diff. My shop is gonna stink like **** lol.
 
Being it's a stock rear end, using something different than what ford calls out as far as oil weight and type may ruin it. Friction modifier on the other hand anything aftermarket is just fine. Mine is from Yukon gear, but GM positraction additives the same stuff.

Without it, just turning a corner you will get this bump, bump, bump feeling. That is the clutches in the differential gripping, binding, and releasing multiple times. Friction modifier additive stops that and allows the smooth slippage for turning corners, but full grip when they are needed to grip.

Do NOT get this on your hands. This is stinky assed ****. It will take a week of washing to wear it off. Latex gloves are definitely required. I have to soak the new clutches I have in this stuff before assembling the diff. My shop is gonna stink like **** lol.
So put a new bottle of friction modifier in it even if it's already in the gear oil ?
 
Gear oil normally doesnt come with friction modifier. I add a half a bottle of gear oil to the diff, then put the friction modifier in the bottle of gear oil with the rest of the gear oil, shake the **** out of it, to mix it, then pour it in the rear.
 
Gear oil normally doesnt come with friction modifier. I add a half a bottle of gear oil to the diff, then put the friction modifier in the bottle of gear oil with the rest of the gear oil, shake the **** out of it, to mix it, then pour it in the rear.
Least of my worries now lol:BangHead:
 
What diff cover seal do yall prefer? I found a cork one for like 8 bucks but they have the rubber coated steel one for 30 something? The rubber one looks like it would seal better but the 8 dollar one is tempting
 
Ok another question maybe I'm a little dumb tonight but for the life of me I cant figure out the brake lines on the rearend I know the right hose has the metal line that connects to the left hose does the metal line coming from the master cylinder go in the left has as well? Or is there another hose that goes from the main line to the left hose ?
 
Ok another question maybe I'm a little dumb tonight but for the life of me I cant figure out the brake lines on the rearend I know the right hose has the metal line that connects to the left hose does the metal line coming from the master cylinder go in the left has as well? Or is there another hose that goes from the main line to the left hose ?
Another rubber line. Look right up there ^^^^^^ Post #853
 
Ok another question maybe I'm a little dumb tonight but for the life of me I cant figure out the brake lines on the rearend I know the right hose has the metal line that connects to the left hose does the metal line coming from the master cylinder go in the left has as well? Or is there another hose that goes from the main line to the left hose ?

The one steel line comes back from the master and goes into a rubber line above the rear axle. That rubber line goes down to the axle and slits with a T or Y fitting and runs to each rear wheel.
 
-
Back
Top